A better way to sew linings and facings
Posted by on Sep 22, 2009 at 1:33 pm / Sewing, Tutorial / Trackback
On Friday I mentioned that sewing certain seams annoys me. I never wrote about it because I’m too picky but based on a vote (2 for, none opposed, that’s democracy for you), we’ll discuss it. Note: this entry has a lot of photos so be patient if it loads slower than usual.
Erin Whitney calls these dominant seams. At right is a sketch I borrowed from her site (larger view) illustrating the concept.
She says dominant seams through the inseam and side seam are good for enhanced range of motion and that dominant seams through the crotch and armhole are better for tailored garments. She’s likely right about both. I don’t think it matters in sportswear and as such, I’m likely to favor inseam and side seam dominance because it’s less costly. My pet peeve is poor design of seam dominance with facings or sleeveless tops with full linings. I don’t like how hardly anyone does it. For the record, you aren’t wrong if you do it differently than I do. The example I’ll use here is a sleeveless top with a full lining but it could just as easily be a facing. Actually, the effect is worse at the side seam with a facing because it’s too short to be anchored and it can flip up if it’s not tacked.
Note: In all views, side A is the left side of the garment and side B is on the right. I will sew side A the way I don’t like. Side B is sewn the way I prefer to do it.
Below, the lining and shell of side A are joined and sewn edge to edge. By the way, the front is a fold piece, it was too large to put the whole thing here. The back takes a zipper so just ignore that for the purposes of this exercise.
Below, side B is shown. It is critical to note the lining and shell are not joined edge to edge.
Below is the full view. The ends of stitch lines are circled.
Below, I’ve joined side A at the shoulder. It can be finished in one pass. The last seam sewn is dominant meaning the shoulder of side A is dominant. On the right, the shoulder seam of B is joined. Side B is a two step process. Once the shoulder is sewn, you have to go back and finish sewing off the neckline and armhole (not shown).
Below is a finished view of what these look like now that the garment has been turned.
For the side seams (below) it’s lather, rinse and repeat.
Again, side B is an additional step to finish it off.
Below I’ve shown the side seams side by side.
At this point I’ve pressed the sample and am now comparing the finished look of the shoulder line. Guess which I like better? I swear I didn’t create that bump on the left; that’s the shoulder seam rolling and taking over the show.
Below is a side by side comparison of the armholes. Other than that the results speak for themselves, side A is less forgiving if you fail to match the armhole and necklines of the front and back when you join them at the shoulder -easy enough to do since sewing that little tube is a pain in the patootie. Since the seam doesn’t lie flat (unless you bang it), the edge flips up and you can see the mismatch (as mine is). On side B, you have to deliberately turn the edge up or keen it from the side view to attempt to discern the mismatch -if there is one and it’s less likely there will be because this is a lot easier to sew than side A’s shoulder tube.
Anyway, that’s the lesson for today. In summary, I would amend Erin’s article to say I prefer the finish of side B for all outside edges in better goods. I haven’t quantified the cost of the two steps as opposed to one so this may be a luxury for some of you depending on your price points. I would think a bridge or designer line should be sewn like side B but that’s just my opinion.
29 Responses to “A better way to sew linings and facings”
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September 22nd, 2009
2:04 PM
I’m so glad democracy led up to you writing this article. This is very helpful. Thank you!
September 22nd, 2009
3:02 PM
I’m glad I voted!
Kathleen, this is really interesting info and proves once again that I need to analyze more what I’m doing and why instead of simply repeating the same thing I’ve always done. This particular sewing order is something I’ve never thought about before, but the difference is clear. Please stop thinking you are too picky!
September 22nd, 2009
3:48 PM
Nice! Thanks so much for taking that further. I’m totally in love with the internet right now (and all of the wonderful and intelligent and generous people on it). It’s so great that I can take a little tidbit of information from sewing class, throw it out there and see what bounces back. I’m thinking of a dress I made a little while ago that REALLY could have benefited from this information…maybe time to break out the seam ripper…
September 22nd, 2009
3:50 PM
Great post Kathleen, will need to mull this over but thank you!!
September 22nd, 2009
3:52 PM
Very helpful! I knew there had to be an industrial way to those super flat seams. Eliminating the pretty hand of home look is great! Thank you. Why not publish more of these?
September 22nd, 2009
5:30 PM
Eva, I’m guessing that more of these are not getting published because (1) it is clearly very time-consuming, and (2) it doesn’t pay like her day job. You could always encourage her by hitting the Make a Donation button on the home page!
September 22nd, 2009
6:33 PM
I don’t have time now, but maybe in a few days if you remind me. I do a variation of version B, but it has fewer steps and looks as good. I don’t know why anyone would do version A, even in budget clothing.
September 22nd, 2009
6:37 PM
Thanks for an explanation of the why of ‘sewing gymnastics’. It looks like I used method A on the side seam and method B on the shoulder seam of Iris’ dresses.
http://badmomgoodmom.blogspot.com/2009/08/simplicity-5635-not.html
I noticed that you hadn’t inserted a zipper in the CB of your blouse. How will this technique work if I wanted to insert a CB zipper? Zipper first or last?
September 22nd, 2009
6:39 PM
Oh, your readers may be interested in this old article about the topology of dressmaking. It reminds me of the Threads article explaining how to bag a jacket lining.
http://badmomgoodmom.blogspot.com/2009/08/topological-dressmaker.html
September 22nd, 2009
9:05 PM
What is the difference between method B and with the partial seams and sewing the shoulder seams first then the neck and arm seams. In other words, why are they partial seams?
September 23rd, 2009
3:48 AM
Excellent instruction, as always! I’ve been doing a variation of this that includes understitching. I sew the fronts to backs at shoulder seams on both lining and garment. Then I align the two at shoulder seams, RST of course, stitch around the neckline, trim, clip and then understitch it. Then I trim off an eight of an inch from the armhole at the tube like part of the shoulders, turn the two pieces back RST, align shoulder seams and stitch the armhole. I trim, clip, turn and understitch that as far as I can which is usually 1 to 2 inches from the shoulder seam. Then i sew the side seams. What I will now do differently is leave that inch open on the underarm seam, stitch side seams of lining and garment separately then flip, realign and stitch that little bit together. This is great post, thank you Kathleen. I’ll be making a donation later today.
September 23rd, 2009
7:05 AM
This is brilliant! Thank you so much; I’ve always been bothered by the way this looks if I follow directions to do “side A”, I’ve always assumed it was my fault.
September 23rd, 2009
9:03 AM
I use a varient when sewing pants that seems to get the best of both methods. I sew the two inseams first. then the crotch seam in one while the side seams are still open. The zipper can now be addressed while the pant is open and flat. Side seams are sewn last and finish work done.
I really appreciate postings like this one. It is very useful to rethink assembly methods and learn new ones. I have not ever tried leaving the seams partly sewn on linings and I will now.
September 23rd, 2009
9:40 AM
The gap between quality and quick, cheap ‘n dirty continues to widen. Jane Q might not recognize the difference if her primary interest is fast fashion and disposable. Those seeking quality and willing to pay for it have to look harder for it. The market place continues to dumb down the consumer to accept less and pay for instant gratification. There is a lot of recent press on consumers looking for both quality and fit. Maybe a revolution of sorts is in its infancy.
Seems a designer hitting her price point, while maintaining a reasonable level of quality, ought to be a standout at the point of purchase. It is not necessarily the most creative, or far out designs that sell best- the purchaser may not even be able to define ‘ it’ but can see/feel the differences and vote her choice with her wallet.
Little things may still count i.e. a proper seam, buttonhole or zipper finish and consistent fit.
September 23rd, 2009
9:49 AM
Side B ends up looking the same as if the facing were set in like a sleeve. I’m wondering now whether it would functionally be the same? Any idea?
September 23rd, 2009
12:37 PM
Thanks for doing this, its amazing the difference it makes!
September 23rd, 2009
10:50 PM
I’m sorry, I’m just not getting it- which seam is dominant in side B?
September 24th, 2009
8:56 AM
Oh wow!! I need to read this at least 10 more times, this is fantastic stuff. Thank you!
September 24th, 2009
7:05 PM
Did you do the shoulder for side A by laying the back inside the front? I’ve never done it that way. Also, May I ask why you stitched the neck and armholes twice on side B? I usually stitch the shoulders first, lay it open and press the seams open, then stitch around the neckline and armholes.
September 25th, 2009
6:44 AM
I’ve been wanting to ask you if have any books you recommend on REAL production sewing methods. Not the fake home sewing type. Thanks for this post. Very interesting!
September 25th, 2009
9:48 AM
As an intermediate home sew-er with perfectionistic tendencies, I’m so glad i discovered your blog, Kathleen!
I always wondered why sleeves on sportswear were set “the easy way”, with the side seam sewn last, and why “fashion” clothes had the armscye sewn last. After reading about dominant seams, now I know.
Kathleen, if you ever write a book for home sew-ers, I will be one of the first in line to buy it.
September 25th, 2009
1:24 PM
[...] Hopefully this entry will tie things up neatly. We’ll start with Lisa’s comment in the first entry: Did you do the shoulder for side A by laying the back inside the front? I’ve never done it that [...]
November 2nd, 2010
4:23 PM
[...] last issue for discussion is yeah or nay on the dominant seam thing. That this is a matter to mention is because the armhole seams are flattening at the bottom [...]
December 14th, 2011
11:47 PM
Thank you so much! I read your post, made a mock-up and I now I get it. Afterwards, it turned out that I’d seen this method in Bunka’s design textbook, the blouses and dresses part, but never actually grasped it. Thanks again.
August 10th, 2012
7:29 PM
I’ve always felt that it’s worth the time/effort to do something the best way WHEN it actually makes a difference, and it’s obvious here that the “B” method is better. It’s worth it! Thanks for posting this.
August 24th, 2012
6:07 AM
Hello. I’m kinda new to making clothes and after thinking that one of the jackets I am making for a costume could use a lining, I stumbled on your website. I loved reading through your tutorials :) This one especially cleared up some things but I do have one question. When doing the side seam on B, did you start the armhole seam, stop, do the side seam, stop, and then go back to the armhole seam? Is that how it’s different from seam A? (other than being in a different order of course)
April 12th, 2013
10:13 PM
Hi Kathleen, I just wanted to enquire quickly.
I know when sewing tailored garments, you should sew the sleeve into a tube because of the dominant seam. Is there another reason?
I am asking because I thought about sewing in the sleeves flat, leaving one inch unsewn like in your sample B, then sewing the side seam, and sleeve seam, finally going back to the armhole seam and closing the gap, making it the dominant seam.
Would this work? I am sewing a toddler size blazer.
April 13th, 2013
11:08 AM
T-M: Doing it as you describe is best for casual items and sportswear. More tailored construction (single needle like the blazer) is probably better done in the round. Usually it isn’t possible to do otherwise because blazers, suitcoats, sportcoats etc, have a two piece sleeve but I’m guessing your jacket is different.
CJ: (sorry, didn’t see your comment until now)
Yes.
April 22nd, 2013
8:10 AM
This is fascinating! eye-opening! and wonderful! at the same time.