Comments on: Adding a gusset to pants pt.2

By: Eff

Eff — Tue, 11 Dec 2012 18:46:23 +0000

Totally needed this. Made some pants for my son who is in cloth diapers and followed the pattern… crotch was too tight, it was a 5min fix, now the pants fit like a glove.

Thanks! :)

By: nutty one

nutty one — Sat, 13 Jun 2009 08:51:04 +0000

wow! this really helps me to understand why there is such ill fitting pants out there. Personally, I think the CT is evil and the off shore clothing manufacturers are secretly laughing about how they are forcing us to wear these ill shaped clothes (just joking about the conspiracy theory – but you get my drift ). I applaud Mr Fashion Incubator for his courage.

By: Anir

Anir — Thu, 25 Sep 2008 15:28:08 +0000

Well, I might be shooting myself in the foot for saying this but I think that there are two problems with the crotch–the crotch depth–from waist to crotch is too shallow and the crotch width–from front to back and what Kathleen attempted to fix. Fixing the crotch depth would mean dropping the crotch seam an inch or so and rounding out the front and back center seams–if you’ve got complicated seams there–well yes, it’s a pain to rip out and restitch these. Then if the gusset is just a sliver–the 1″ mentioned earlier you could end up with more attractive pants that fit.

Just my $.2

By: Liron

Liron — Sat, 20 Sep 2008 09:42:01 +0000

Thanks for the explanatiom Paband. Got it now!

By: Mary Lombard

Mary Lombard — Fri, 19 Sep 2008 16:39:49 +0000

I agree with Kathleen re: home patterns. Store bought pant patterns usually have a generous hook and extension. Industrial patterns are opposite, ‘specially from China! Currently I’m developing a short block pattern for my company. Most of the patterns I’ve seen have this tiny leetle extension, about 3/4″ to 1″ from the CF. Unbelievable! Ack!

By: Paband

Paband — Fri, 19 Sep 2008 00:22:18 +0000

Liron,

I think Kathleen is using the word “wad” to refer to too much fabric after she put the gusset in the pants. If you look at the pictures above, the one on the right was taken after the alteration. The backside is now quite baggy compared to the picture on the left.

Hope this helps.

By: Liron

Liron — Thu, 18 Sep 2008 17:55:40 +0000

Any chance someone can explain to me what a wad is? I get the CT, but the wad is still a mystery.

By: Connie

Connie — Thu, 18 Sep 2008 07:33:29 +0000

As always you make a daunting procedure look easy. I would have told my son/husband to try the next size. If that wasn’t helpful, I would have told them ” Forget it, now we know why they’re seconds. There was something wrong with them in the first place.”

I personally don’t think badly of a company if their ‘seconds’ are problematic. I go into “buyer be ware” mode but if the item is acceptable to me at a very reduced price, I figure it’s a win/win situation for the company and me. However, if their ‘firsts’ fit like that, I’m willing to give them a second chance. After that, I avoid them like the plague.

By: Kathleen Fasanella

Kathleen Fasanella — Thu, 18 Sep 2008 01:34:27 +0000

Ask yourself, do you have a CT/Wad? If not, walk on by, this doesn’t apply to you.

The engineering, design and process of home patterns has very little in common with industrial patterns. Forced to say, I’d suggest that home sewing patterns have exactly the opposite problem of industrial ones, the body being too deep meaning that it would only be logical to add to cf and cb as the people you mention have. The point remains tho, do you have a CT/wad in your home pattern? If so, you’d use this otherwise the fixes you describe would only make it worse. If you don’t have this problem, why apply the repair? Context is everything :).

By: Paband

Paband — Thu, 18 Sep 2008 00:25:23 +0000

Kathleen,

The information you posted is quite interesting regarding removing from the side seam and adding to the cb and or cf. Joyce Murphy published an article in Threads magazine and suggested one remove from the side seam and add to CB seam if one has a flat seat. She calls it fitting one’s body space for pants. You state not to do that alteration or am I confusing the two?

Some sewists on PatternReview.com are doing what you suggest not to do and appear to have good results with altering their pants to fit their bodies.

Anyway, thanks for this information!