Comments on: Bluff pockets

By: Sabine

Sabine — Tue, 02 Mar 2010 03:18:21 +0000

stumbling over this the other day, I made one, or two, anyways, took pictures and added descriptions there: http://cid-281d31b5f9ee1882.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/pocket.pdf
it downloads as a pdf, have not figured a better way to post something like that on the internet yet.
But really, is there an easier way?

By: Judith

Judith — Sun, 17 May 2009 03:01:48 +0000

I still can’t work it out. I need to do a lot of pockets on band jackets….can anyone give me step by step directions? Please???
JD

By: mini

mini — Wed, 26 Dec 2007 19:11:09 +0000

Hi, great site!!!

I learned a good bluff pocket method from one of Nancy Zeiman’s early books-maybe it was the Busy Woman’s Sewing Book? Actually, I think there were two methods, but one seemed easier. It was a completely lined (can be seflined if your fabric is thin),and invisibly zigzagged in place. The outer layer isn’t stitched at all, it is pulled backs lightly during the stitching, and the zigzag catch stitches the lining fabric all around, very close to the point where lining meets fashion fabric. Hmmm-that wasn’t very clear was it? But if you find the book the pictures are clear.

It helps to pin, glue-baste or hand baste the pocket before stitching (obviously) . I would just baste trhough the center of the pocket so that it stays in place- use a good hand position and maybe you don’t even need that.

Claire Schaeffer did a small book on pockets, with matching and other useful techniques.

By: Wave Shoppe Hawaiian Shirts

Wave Shoppe Hawaiian Shirts — Tue, 24 Oct 2006 00:01:12 +0000

Aloha,
We have been enjoying the articles in here, thank you. We were wondering if there are any articles on pocket matching techniques and variations. If you know of some would you drop a email so we can check them out?

By: Annie

Annie — Mon, 19 Jun 2006 03:22:43 +0000

Hurry and tell me! I would like to know how to do this bluff pocket. I’ve always thought it was hand stitched!

By: Sarah

Sarah — Sat, 17 Jun 2006 10:35:44 +0000

Okay…what about this idea, : Pocket lining and shell of pocket are cut the same,except the top of shell is 1/2″longer than lining. Turn down top of lining 1/4 inch to the inside – twice, and press. Turn down top of shell the same way…(1/4″ – twice, and press). Stitch pocket lining onto shirt top, with right side of lining facing up, using 1/4″ seam allowance. Flip over the whole thing. Folding in and sandwiching the shirt fabric, place the shell pocket piece against the pocket lining piece(right side of shell against wrong side of pocket lining…shirt fabric is now sandwiched within the pocket)and stitch on top of previous stitching (or just inside of it is better). Turn right side out. You now have a bluff pocket with the top unattached. Fold the top in at fold line, matching folded edge of lining. Pull that edge out and edge stitch from side of pocket to side of pocket getting as close to side edge of pocket as possible. Fold back down and press.
The only limitation I see with this is if you were using very bulky fabric,say for a jacket, that would not all fit into the pocket area when sandwiching, but otherwise…it can be done in a square as Kathleen suggested, and all raw edges are hidden AND no sewing “inside” the pocket.

By: Amitai

Amitai — Fri, 16 Jun 2006 19:24:08 +0000

Hi,
I guess this pocket is made of 2 layers. The first (bottom) is sewn on the sew line. The second layer (top) is attached from the inside of the pocket to the first layer’s cutting line. After that, the upper part of the second layer is folded (if it wasn’t folded we would actually see two pocketsâ€¦)
Now, if you understand that â€“ you will realize it can be done in a single piece â€“ by folding it into half, you get the 2 layers.
Cheers,
Amitai

By: Julie L.

Julie L. — Fri, 16 Jun 2006 17:42:10 +0000

I think I understand how the “free-floating bag” part of it works, but since I don’t know most of the technical terms associated with sewing, I’m not sure whether anyone else has already explained it, much less how I could do so. Nevertheless, I shall make a foolhardy attempt anyway.

Roughly speaking, you’ve got the outermost layer of fabric that’s similar to a patch pocket, and then the separate lining piece that may be slightly narrower, but is definitely about twice as long as the outermost patch. The lining gets sewn together at the sides to form the “bag”, which is then attached (only at the top) to the outer patch in front and the main jacket fabric in back, leaving the sides and bottom to float freely.

By: Sarah

Sarah — Fri, 16 Jun 2006 16:16:37 +0000

I understand what Patricia and Danielle are talking about, but would that still work if you wanted to do a square pocket?

Carmen, if I understand you correctly, the inside of the pocket when finished would have raw/serged edges exposed? I don’t see any in Kathleen’s pic.

By: Carmen

Carmen — Fri, 16 Jun 2006 01:34:10 +0000

Daniella, that is a much beter way to explain it. You have to remember that the pkt needs to be finished at top,(fused, hem folded, lining attached, etc) the rest of the pocket is just lock stitched with the lining and shell wrong sides together, if needed to, you can serge the edges to prevent fraying.
The pkt is placed face down onto the body at the upper rigth corner, matching the inside marking on the garment.
You need to add notches at both curve corners, and at the center on both the pkt and the template. This is very important. This is what will help and guide the pkt and to match it perfectly and evenly.

I have never liked using sandpaper, it can damage delicate fabrics, or not stick with fabrics that have too much texture or pile. We used oaktag all the time, I have also used the same “platic” that is used for stenciling, or the ticker plastic used for office hanging folders. They can be stabilized with a few strips of masking tape underneath, or runing thin strips of hot glue, or even the small dots that are used on card making.