Comments on: Confusing terminology 1 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/confusing_terminology_1/ How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better. Fri, 21 Nov 2008 06:07:53 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.6.2 By: Elsa Toerien http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9294 Elsa Toerien Tue, 15 Jan 2008 08:06:44 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9294 My understanding of interlining and underlining is the same as Alison's. Interlining is for warmth, underlining is used on wedding dresses, etc where you will have lots of inner workings. In South Africa you have to ask for "Vilene" in a shop if you want interfacing. And then specify if you want "paper vilene" (the bonded fibre fabric stuff) or "material vilene" (the woven one). My understanding of interlining and underlining is the same as Alison’s. Interlining is for warmth, underlining is used on wedding dresses, etc where you will have lots of inner workings.
In South Africa you have to ask for “Vilene” in a shop if you want interfacing. And then specify if you want “paper vilene” (the bonded fibre fabric stuff) or “material vilene” (the woven one).

]]> By: Alison Cummins http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9293 Alison Cummins Thu, 10 Jan 2008 14:37:26 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9293 Lisa, I knew there was a reason I cancelled my subscription to Threads. Lisa,
I knew there was a reason I cancelled my subscription to Threads.

]]> By: Lisa Bloodgood http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9292 Lisa Bloodgood Thu, 10 Jan 2008 06:08:01 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9292 I "know" that an eyelet is one piece that's smoother on the right side of the garment and the little pieces bite into the wrong side. The grommet has that piece plus a washer and it stays in the garment better. Piping can have cord in it or not, but other than that, I don't know. Please confirm/clarify underlining and interlining because the current <i>Threads</i> magazine has an article that says they're the same but the usage they're referring to is the underlining one that Alison mentions above. I “know” that an eyelet is one piece that’s smoother on the right side of the garment and the little pieces bite into the wrong side. The grommet has that piece plus a washer and it stays in the garment better.

Piping can have cord in it or not, but other than that, I don’t know.

Please confirm/clarify underlining and interlining because the current Threads magazine has an article that says they’re the same but the usage they’re referring to is the underlining one that Alison mentions above.

]]> By: bethany http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9291 bethany Wed, 09 Jan 2008 21:20:56 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9291 The terms I keep screwing up are piping vs cording and grommit vs eyelet. The terms I keep screwing up are piping vs cording and grommit vs eyelet.

]]> By: Andrew http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9290 Andrew Wed, 09 Jan 2008 12:57:56 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9290 Great idea for a post, I had thought about asking for something similar a while ago because some of the terms used are US-centric (understandably) and I was curious of international translations. Although this page may get unwieldy if you try to include everything, your list of 'Oak Tag' variants could also include 'Manilla' and 'Pattern Kraft' (both used in the UK, although I probably hear just 'card' used more frequently). Also, I see 'Dot & Cross Paper' used here more than 'Dot Paper'. How about a section for Muslins, Toiles (the usual term in the UK), Protoypes? And maybe one for the similarities and differences between Blocks and Slopers. I know you mention this in your book and in previous posts on this site but maybe a link would be relevant to this discussion. Sorry if this seems like a list of demands, this page is already really useful, thank you. Great idea for a post, I had thought about asking for something similar a while ago because some of the terms used are US-centric (understandably) and I was curious of international translations.

Although this page may get unwieldy if you try to include everything, your list of ‘Oak Tag’ variants could also include ‘Manilla’ and ‘Pattern Kraft’ (both used in the UK, although I probably hear just ‘card’ used more frequently).

Also, I see ‘Dot & Cross Paper’ used here more than ‘Dot Paper’.

How about a section for Muslins, Toiles (the usual term in the UK), Protoypes?
And maybe one for the similarities and differences between Blocks and Slopers. I know you mention this in your book and in previous posts on this site but maybe a link would be relevant to this discussion.

Sorry if this seems like a list of demands, this page is already really useful, thank you.

]]> By: Alison Cummins http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9289 Alison Cummins Wed, 09 Jan 2008 12:11:38 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9289 dosfashionistas - I was taught something else again. Interlining goes between the lining and the fashion fabric, often flannel or quilting to add warmth. Underlining is cut and sewn as one with the fashion fabric, usually to add body. dosfashionistas - I was taught something else again. Interlining goes between the lining and the fashion fabric, often flannel or quilting to add warmth. Underlining is cut and sewn as one with the fashion fabric, usually to add body.

]]> By: winter http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9288 winter Wed, 09 Jan 2008 10:49:44 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9288 The best thing about pattern making terminology is the old english usages. If you know this stuff you will do well on vocabulary quizzes and some crosswords. One of my favorite things about this trade is the antiquity of the tools and terms. We aren't that far from our origins. Look at the cast iron pattern hole punch. One of my favorite terms is wiggan. Did you mention that? The best thing about pattern making terminology is the old english usages. If you know this stuff you will do well on vocabulary quizzes and some crosswords.

One of my favorite things about this trade is the antiquity of the tools and terms. We aren’t that far from our origins. Look at the cast iron pattern hole punch.

One of my favorite terms is wiggan. Did you mention that?

]]> By: Lisa thedomesticdiva http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9287 Lisa thedomesticdiva Wed, 09 Jan 2008 10:43:27 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9287 I understood interlining and interfacing as DOS above. And the interfacing might have fusible on it, but the interlining never would. Fun topic! Yes, Project Runway is too staged. I blame it for the hundreds of GOATS "designers." Just my 2 cents... With friendship, Lisa I understood interlining and interfacing as DOS above. And the interfacing might have fusible on it, but the interlining never would.

Fun topic!

Yes, Project Runway is too staged. I blame it for the hundreds of GOATS “designers.” Just my 2 cents…

With friendship,
Lisa

]]> By: Penny http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9286 Penny Wed, 09 Jan 2008 09:21:45 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9286 Seems like every company has their own version / layout of the style sheets, altho all of them require listing each pattern piece, number of pieces to cut and added information for specific instructions such as cutting a piece face up, or matching stripes. There are separate forms as well to specify things like sewing instructions, trims used, buttons, zipper lengths, send out applications for things like pleating or bias binding. It seems like the larger the company, the more accompanying paperwork is required and sometimes it takes longer to fill out all these forms than it does to draft the pattern. I have to agree that Project Runway has lost me this season. I was somewhat addicted to it the past two seasons, but this season lacks pizazz. Even Tim Gunn seems bored and uninterested. The contestants and their challenges really hold no interest for me at all this season. Too bad because they were on a roll... Seems like every company has their own version / layout of the style sheets, altho all of them require listing each pattern piece, number of pieces to cut and added information for specific instructions such as cutting a piece face up, or matching stripes. There are separate forms as well to specify things like sewing instructions, trims used, buttons, zipper lengths, send out applications for things like pleating or bias binding. It seems like the larger the company, the more accompanying paperwork is required and sometimes it takes longer to fill out all these forms than it does to draft the pattern.

I have to agree that Project Runway has lost me this season. I was somewhat addicted to it the past two seasons, but this season lacks pizazz. Even Tim Gunn seems bored and uninterested. The contestants and their challenges really hold no interest for me at all this season. Too bad because they were on a roll…

]]> By: dosfashionistas http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9285 dosfashionistas Wed, 09 Jan 2008 04:37:59 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/confusing_terminology_1/#comment-9285 Technically, interlining and interfacing are not the same thing. But I would not give a plugged nickel for the chance that my concept of the difference would be the same as anyone else's in the industry. I was taught that interlining was a fabric that was cut and sewn as one with the fashion fabric in order to give it more body. As opposed to interfacing which is fused or sewn into edges and places where crispness is important to give stability. And every sewer in Dallas that I ever knew called a merrowed edge a mirror edge..and called a merrow machine a serger. And a mirror edge that is purposely stretched is a lettuce edge. Can't think of any more tonight, but I agree. Every place I ever worked had it's own vocabulary, and it's own system. And they all said "Everyone does it this way. It's standard for the industry." Let's see...since 1964 I guess I have run into a baker's dozen of industry standards. Not wildly different, but somewhat. Technically, interlining and interfacing are not the same thing. But I would not give a plugged nickel for the chance that my concept of the difference would be the same as anyone else’s in the industry. I was taught that interlining was a fabric that was cut and sewn as one with the fashion fabric in order to give it more body. As opposed to interfacing which is fused or sewn into edges and places where crispness is important to give stability.
And every sewer in Dallas that I ever knew called a merrowed edge a mirror edge..and called a merrow machine a serger. And a mirror edge that is purposely stretched is a lettuce edge.
Can’t think of any more tonight, but I agree. Every place I ever worked had it’s own vocabulary, and it’s own system. And they all said “Everyone does it this way. It’s standard for the industry.” Let’s see…since 1964 I guess I have run into a baker’s dozen of industry standards. Not wildly different, but somewhat.

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