Here is a link to SDA, and I am a Texas representative so if anyone in Texas or southern New Mexico needs any info on SDA, email me at trish@dollymall.com

http://www.surfacedesign.org/

Here is a link to info on Jack Lenor Larson. But you can search his name and you will find much, much more about him.

http://www.sofaexpo.com/NY/2004/essays/Larsen.pdf

Just one more link on Jack Lenor Larson.. this has a picture of some of his stunning textiles.

http://nymag.com/homedesign/fall2007/39599/index1.html

Here is another tip… check out Surtex, this is the perfect place to sell textile designs as a freelancer.

Here is what Surtex says about itself on their website. “Here’s what you can expect at SURTEX:

The hottest trends, newest designs, and greatest resources from around the world 400 exhibitors on two floors, selling and licensing diverse art and design. Exhibitors include top artists, designers, studios and licensing firms. Outstanding network potential with key industry contacts. An incredible business-building opportunity you can’t afford to miss.

http://www.surtex.com/

Hope this helps.

In the case of the latter, the weaver has a textile designer either on-staff or at their disposal (i.e. a subcontractor). It is traditional to pay a design fee separate from a setup fee and then also purchase a minimum length of fabric. In most cases, if you’re an established company with a long ordering history and sufficient volume behind you, you can get the setup fee waived. In my experience, the design fee is still itemized on the invoice. Though, I imagine if volume and longevity is there, that could probably be waived, too.

My recommendation would be, if a textile/print designer, I would charge a design fee. And, then, I would charge a sample fee for the strike off. Then, I would charge a project management fee for facilitating the production and delivery of the goods. I would not, however, bake all of this into the per yard price.

My reasoning is: what happens if the customer abandons the project? If I state each step as a distinct service/fee and then verbally tell the customer how it might be factored into costing, they have context and flexibility. I know they’re going to counter my proposal by chunking up the package, anyway, so I would talk in terms of lowest common denominator (i.e. discrete deliverables).

If the customer already knew how to get the mill to produce the design, then they wouldn’t require that ancillary service from me. Rather than try to capture that service in order to make margin, I would price the deliverable discretely so the customer may exit when they’re done and I can move onto the next project.

I’ve always been hesitant about package pricing because I don’t feel it can be effectively managed unless the company is a vertical business model (i.e. producing the goods you design).

And I remember that a representative of an European company told me, that his company has to buy a minimum of 10000 metres to get exclusivity of a design. In this case it is theirs forever. (Until the next factory in China fakes it…)

Maybe this information ist a bit helpfull.

Don’t know if this helps but here is her info.

Deborah Barones
Painter/Textile Designer/Creative
Director for the apparel and home textiles market – Warren, RI
http://baronasart.com/index.html

-Beth

Of course, it costs more to get someone to design a print to spec, rather than just taking something they have lying around. I’ve paid between $400 (for something like “I need stripes in this colorway”) and $1000 (for something like “y’know, sorta oriental, kinda like this, but really more like that . . . “).

I sure hope more people chime in. Interesting topic.

Marguerite

Companies that depend on prints for the appeal of their clothes will often try to get an exclusive if they think the print will be popular. It is a way of staying ahead of the competition, so I am not surprised at him asking for an exclusive and it is definitely a compliment to your work.

Hope this helps.
Sarah/dosfashionistas