Fusing Map: Bomber Jacket (#12601)

Posted by Kathleen Fasanella on Oct 31, 2013 at 12:41 pm / Production, Sewing / Trackback

I was going to put this in the tutorial I promised but realized it would be good as a stand alone entry for those of you who are collecting the fusing maps I post occasionally. Clicking on the image will load a larger version of the file.
12601_fusing_map_sm

Now for some explanatory text:

  • The pink pieces are fusible superimposed over pieces they are paired with.
  • The grey pieces are shell or self.
  • The green pieces are contrast.
  • The blue piece is lining.

The above are standard color coding conventions used in the trade. Well, not quite. Shell/Self is black but that is too hard to read on the screen. Ditto for pink; fusible is coded red but I find red too garish for viewing.

Now a run down on pieces as numbered. The pieces are numbered for the convenience of discussion -this is not how it’s done in real life.

  1. The front waistband
  2. Front waistband facing
  3. Front facing
  4. Contrast collar
  5. Shell collar
  6. Back waistband
  7. Welt pocket
  8. Welt pocket (inside lining)
  9. Front
  10. Back

The fusible on the back piece (#10) is optional, as is a fusible for the front shoulder line that is not shown (didn’t notice it was missing until now). Whether you include these amounts to a design decision. If your sleeves will be inordinately heavy (leather etc) and the shell it is sewn to is not equally heavy, you might add fusible to support the shoulder line.

All fusible pieces are cut 1/8″ smaller than the edges they are paired to. These prevents the fusible from obscuring the seam lines.

5 Responses to “Fusing Map: Bomber Jacket (#12601)”

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theresa in tucson
November 1st, 2013
8:19 AM

As usual, a very useful post, Kathleen. I have saved it to my growing collection.

Jess Hanebutt Snell
November 1st, 2013
10:08 AM

Thank you Kathleen, great post.

Anita McAdam
November 2nd, 2013
9:53 PM

Great post Kathleen. Thanks so much for sharing. In my experience with the UK and Australian fashion industry it is more likely that green will mean lining and blue is for contrast. I think these conventions change a little as you go around the world. I even met one pattern maker here that used purple for shell fabric???? Maybe all the black pens ran out of ink! :)

Kathleen Fasanella
November 4th, 2013
2:02 PM

Hi Anita, I couldn’t speak to conventions there but wouldn’t be surprised at all. What matters most is consistency. What drives me crazy is when people use whatever colored ink they’ve got handy. I suppose it matters less these days since a lot of patterns are CAD generated but it definitely matters with hard copy patterns. I recently got a set of patterns that had black ink for every single piece. And instead of a style number, the 6 word name for the style was written out on each piece. Some pieces were too small to contain it all. Such a mess.

Anita McAdam
November 4th, 2013
5:16 PM

Agree! agree! – ‘What matters most is consistency’. And I do prefer a tidy pattern. ;-)

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