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	<title>Comments on: Going from prototype to production sewing pt.2</title>
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	<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/going-from-prototype-to-production-sewing-pt2/</link>
	<description>How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 11 Feb 2012 22:49:13 -0800</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Penny</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/going-from-prototype-to-production-sewing-pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-26631</link>
		<dc:creator>Penny</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 07 Oct 2010 15:19:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4482#comment-26631</guid>
		<description>Interesting sewing on velvet... what does work is a thin strip of sand paper rough side face down under the side of the foot while sewing. It grips enough to move the top layer evenly with the bottom layer.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Interesting sewing on velvet&#8230; what does work is a thin strip of sand paper rough side face down under the side of the foot while sewing. It grips enough to move the top layer evenly with the bottom layer.</p>
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		<title>By: Kathleen Fasanella</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/going-from-prototype-to-production-sewing-pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-20712</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Dec 2009 17:32:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4482#comment-20712</guid>
		<description>Hi John, I appreciate the response! I offer this not to contradict you but in the event someone decides they can pass on the work of figuring table height because they can raise it later with your solution. Some caveats are particular to my situation, some are not.

Detaching the table tops is a three man job. Or a two-very-strong men job. It is *totally possible* to remove one segment from either end in the manner you describe. However, you cannot remove the inner segments without first disassembling the frames of the outer ends because the table tops are too tightly nested in there along the aprons (you&#039;d also have to unscrew the metal strips joining segments from the under side). If you had a short table (4 to 8 feet long), the method you describe is probably easiest if you didn&#039;t have jacks. In fact, were it that short, once you&#039;d removed the table tops, you wouldn&#039;t even need to turn the frame upside down because you could manually lift the legs and set the bolts on the leg extensions with just two people.

Another matter which is peculiar to my shop (and may similarly apply to others) is that my floor is not even. It dips significantly in spots. So, I need to level the whole 20 foot length of it while it is located in position. As such, I cannot raise the table height *and* level it by turning it over on one side -assuming I could flip the whole 20 foot table length without bending the frame somewhere; I&#039;d need one man per 4ft section. This is important if people have one of those spreaders; the wheels will get caught if the apron segments are disjointed due to floor dips meaning that as one runs the spreader along, tension from jerking (coming to a screeching halt) will be applied on the fabric ply, stretching the goods. 

Perhaps I should explain how these tables should be set up properly. The order of table segment construction depends on your workplace constraints. You can either start at one end and build on to that, or you can calculate placement of the center segment and build off of both ends. If you have several helpers, starting with the middle is fastest because you have enough bodies to work on both sides of the center at the same time. Starting from one end means people are getting in the way of each other or are waiting around to have something to do -like moving in those 125lb table tops. I will go with the center method.

You construct the middle table section first, leveling it and setting table height with the leg extensions (table leg &quot;foot&quot;). You have to install the table top before you can level it because owing to the weight of it and possible wonky frames (or not being perfectly square), the frame needs to be settled. Once you&#039;ve constructed the middle frame and installed the table top, have raised and leveled it, then you can add frame sections off to either side of the middle one. 

Then you add frame segments to the middle section, guesstimating table height and crudely leveling it however you have to. Set the bolts on the legs to estimated height but don&#039;t tighten them. Then lay in the table top. At this point you can level the table top, aligned to the previous section. At this point, two people can lift a corner of each end with another person tightening the leg bolt to attain the desired position. This really is a three man job. You can use two but it&#039;s harder. Anyway, rinse, lather and repeat until the table is done. 

Even doing it like this, you would ideally have jacks because it&#039;s better to lift the segments from below (rather than by using strength to pull up on a corner) and let the leg feet (extenders) fall to rest level. Doing it in sections also means you really only need two jacks at most and one (or two) shorter piece(s) of lumber since it only needs to span four feet and change to raise the lower cross beams. 

The next time I have to move, I will photograph this process so people can see what I mean. Moving tables is such a hassle. And then you get all of these invisible tiny metal cuts that make your hands hurt for days. That&#039;s why it&#039;s worth getting a pair of mechanics gloves. My son took mine and got teen-age boy cooties all over them so I need another pair. I am still annoyed about that.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi John, I appreciate the response! I offer this not to contradict you but in the event someone decides they can pass on the work of figuring table height because they can raise it later with your solution. Some caveats are particular to my situation, some are not.</p>
<p>Detaching the table tops is a three man job. Or a two-very-strong men job. It is *totally possible* to remove one segment from either end in the manner you describe. However, you cannot remove the inner segments without first disassembling the frames of the outer ends because the table tops are too tightly nested in there along the aprons (you&#8217;d also have to unscrew the metal strips joining segments from the under side). If you had a short table (4 to 8 feet long), the method you describe is probably easiest if you didn&#8217;t have jacks. In fact, were it that short, once you&#8217;d removed the table tops, you wouldn&#8217;t even need to turn the frame upside down because you could manually lift the legs and set the bolts on the leg extensions with just two people.</p>
<p>Another matter which is peculiar to my shop (and may similarly apply to others) is that my floor is not even. It dips significantly in spots. So, I need to level the whole 20 foot length of it while it is located in position. As such, I cannot raise the table height *and* level it by turning it over on one side -assuming I could flip the whole 20 foot table length without bending the frame somewhere; I&#8217;d need one man per 4ft section. This is important if people have one of those spreaders; the wheels will get caught if the apron segments are disjointed due to floor dips meaning that as one runs the spreader along, tension from jerking (coming to a screeching halt) will be applied on the fabric ply, stretching the goods. </p>
<p>Perhaps I should explain how these tables should be set up properly. The order of table segment construction depends on your workplace constraints. You can either start at one end and build on to that, or you can calculate placement of the center segment and build off of both ends. If you have several helpers, starting with the middle is fastest because you have enough bodies to work on both sides of the center at the same time. Starting from one end means people are getting in the way of each other or are waiting around to have something to do -like moving in those 125lb table tops. I will go with the center method.</p>
<p>You construct the middle table section first, leveling it and setting table height with the leg extensions (table leg &#8220;foot&#8221;). You have to install the table top before you can level it because owing to the weight of it and possible wonky frames (or not being perfectly square), the frame needs to be settled. Once you&#8217;ve constructed the middle frame and installed the table top, have raised and leveled it, then you can add frame sections off to either side of the middle one. </p>
<p>Then you add frame segments to the middle section, guesstimating table height and crudely leveling it however you have to. Set the bolts on the legs to estimated height but don&#8217;t tighten them. Then lay in the table top. At this point you can level the table top, aligned to the previous section. At this point, two people can lift a corner of each end with another person tightening the leg bolt to attain the desired position. This really is a three man job. You can use two but it&#8217;s harder. Anyway, rinse, lather and repeat until the table is done. </p>
<p>Even doing it like this, you would ideally have jacks because it&#8217;s better to lift the segments from below (rather than by using strength to pull up on a corner) and let the leg feet (extenders) fall to rest level. Doing it in sections also means you really only need two jacks at most and one (or two) shorter piece(s) of lumber since it only needs to span four feet and change to raise the lower cross beams. </p>
<p>The next time I have to move, I will photograph this process so people can see what I mean. Moving tables is such a hassle. And then you get all of these invisible tiny metal cuts that make your hands hurt for days. That&#8217;s why it&#8217;s worth getting a pair of mechanics gloves. My son took mine and got teen-age boy cooties all over them so I need another pair. I am still annoyed about that.</p>
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		<title>By: john buster</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/going-from-prototype-to-production-sewing-pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-20692</link>
		<dc:creator>john buster</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Dec 2009 02:47:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4482#comment-20692</guid>
		<description>Here&#039;s how you can raise your cutting table without car jacks:
1. Detach and lift off the 3-4  very heavy particle board top panels.
2. With another person&#039;s help, flip the table over . . . or at least insert four 12 x 15 x 3/4&quot; ply risers under the four lower cross beams to lift one side up in the air.
3. Lengthen the 4-5 legs on that raised side. 
4. Lift that side of the table a little higher, kick out the risers, and lower that side back to its new height.
5.  Repeat again on the other side.
6.  Reattach the heavy top panels.
Good luck!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Here&#8217;s how you can raise your cutting table without car jacks:<br />
1. Detach and lift off the 3-4  very heavy particle board top panels.<br />
2. With another person&#8217;s help, flip the table over . . . or at least insert four 12 x 15 x 3/4&#8243; ply risers under the four lower cross beams to lift one side up in the air.<br />
3. Lengthen the 4-5 legs on that raised side.<br />
4. Lift that side of the table a little higher, kick out the risers, and lower that side back to its new height.<br />
5.  Repeat again on the other side.<br />
6.  Reattach the heavy top panels.<br />
Good luck!</p>
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		<title>By: Brenda P</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/going-from-prototype-to-production-sewing-pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-16295</link>
		<dc:creator>Brenda P</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Aug 2009 11:02:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4482#comment-16295</guid>
		<description>What a dream table.  Width as well as length.  Perfect.  

The Vornado fans would definitely help where a swamp cooler is used.  

The full spectrum bulbs come in incandescent and flourescent styles.  I&#039;m sure the clamp on lights would work with them.  Again, do your homework on line before purchasing bulbs because on type (not halogen) runs hotter than the other kind.  You can see much better with them.  Even black threads are easily seen.  The real difference in the room lighting came when I purchased the uplights to illuminate the whole room.  How much different?  Probably the difference between using cheap diet margarine and a good creamy whole butter.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What a dream table.  Width as well as length.  Perfect.  </p>
<p>The Vornado fans would definitely help where a swamp cooler is used.  </p>
<p>The full spectrum bulbs come in incandescent and flourescent styles.  I&#8217;m sure the clamp on lights would work with them.  Again, do your homework on line before purchasing bulbs because on type (not halogen) runs hotter than the other kind.  You can see much better with them.  Even black threads are easily seen.  The real difference in the room lighting came when I purchased the uplights to illuminate the whole room.  How much different?  Probably the difference between using cheap diet margarine and a good creamy whole butter.</p>
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		<title>By: Susan</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/going-from-prototype-to-production-sewing-pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-15576</link>
		<dc:creator>Susan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jul 2009 16:43:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4482#comment-15576</guid>
		<description>We, actually my son, has a floor jack.  I&#039;m sure if you ask around you&#039;d be surprised as to who has one.  I&#039;m sure you could probably rent one from a rental company.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We, actually my son, has a floor jack.  I&#8217;m sure if you ask around you&#8217;d be surprised as to who has one.  I&#8217;m sure you could probably rent one from a rental company.</p>
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		<title>By: celeste</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/going-from-prototype-to-production-sewing-pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-15572</link>
		<dc:creator>celeste</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jul 2009 14:28:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4482#comment-15572</guid>
		<description>I will try and send an email to you, too. No, I did not get your message!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I will try and send an email to you, too. No, I did not get your message!</p>
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		<title>By: kay</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/going-from-prototype-to-production-sewing-pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-15570</link>
		<dc:creator>kay</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jul 2009 06:06:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4482#comment-15570</guid>
		<description>Kathleen, check with your friends with small, probably imported, cars for jacks.  The scissors jack from my Scion, for instance, is about 4&quot; thick when down tight.  Put one or two of those under a cross member, raise that end of the table an inch or so and crib it, then down to the other end to use the same jack(s) and crib some more, then back to the first end... pretty soon it&#039;ll be raised enough for you to drop the extensions to the right height.  Raise it a bit more and knock the cribbing out of one end. then the other, and you&#039;re done.

Or you can substitute a teeter-totter arrangement of your 2x and a fulcrum -- just like a little kid at the playground can hold an adult up on the teeter totter if they&#039;ve got a long enough lever, you can raise the table an inch or so at a time and crib it.  You&#039;ll need two people for that, though.  And watch the grain direction in the 2x.

Don&#039;t try to lift as you drew... the table will teeter on the 2x and be really unstable.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kathleen, check with your friends with small, probably imported, cars for jacks.  The scissors jack from my Scion, for instance, is about 4&#8243; thick when down tight.  Put one or two of those under a cross member, raise that end of the table an inch or so and crib it, then down to the other end to use the same jack(s) and crib some more, then back to the first end&#8230; pretty soon it&#8217;ll be raised enough for you to drop the extensions to the right height.  Raise it a bit more and knock the cribbing out of one end. then the other, and you&#8217;re done.</p>
<p>Or you can substitute a teeter-totter arrangement of your 2x and a fulcrum &#8212; just like a little kid at the playground can hold an adult up on the teeter totter if they&#8217;ve got a long enough lever, you can raise the table an inch or so at a time and crib it.  You&#8217;ll need two people for that, though.  And watch the grain direction in the 2x.</p>
<p>Don&#8217;t try to lift as you drew&#8230; the table will teeter on the 2x and be really unstable.</p>
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		<title>By: LisaB</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/going-from-prototype-to-production-sewing-pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-15569</link>
		<dc:creator>LisaB</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jul 2009 01:55:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4482#comment-15569</guid>
		<description>I was encouraged to see the description of a good supplier. That was exactly my experience when I bought my industrial machines. I didn&#039;t know any better at the time, though. It&#039;s just nice to have confirmation about the person I bought my machines from.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was encouraged to see the description of a good supplier. That was exactly my experience when I bought my industrial machines. I didn&#8217;t know any better at the time, though. It&#8217;s just nice to have confirmation about the person I bought my machines from.</p>
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		<title>By: Russell Howard</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/going-from-prototype-to-production-sewing-pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-15568</link>
		<dc:creator>Russell Howard</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jul 2009 00:40:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4482#comment-15568</guid>
		<description>I like it!
Tables:  they are expensive.  Yes, you can get them used.  Most of those who have them 2nd hand are word of mouth (only my exp.)  Someone I work for bought a 300&#039; table compete with rails and electrical track for cutter for $100.  - they are out there.

Lifting:
I worked on a farm with a man who was very nice and all, but when he had to lift something hard he turned into the Hulk, he would yell &quot;do it, do it&quot; and lift crazy things - really crazy.  I tried to do what he did a couple times, but that was a bad idea - jacks are best, and if your worried about the price check out Harbor Freight, very cheap and you get what you pay for but they do the immediate job.

Air Conditioner:
I live in New England now, but I grew up in Arizona.  We did the swamp cooler thing, WOW they work very well in the dry heat, but they sure don&#039;t work in the humid weather, so now I go without.  BTW, your right, when its bone dry heat and you walk into a mall its like eating ice cream too fast but all over.

Sales person:
I have had many encounters with industrial sales people both professionally (the company I work for) and paraprofessional (my own company).  Two different experiences:  professionally, they treat me with kid gloves, the company I work for has been around for 200 years, paraprofessional:  they ask me all the questions.  Recently, I actually started answering them; you know what?... I was their cats meow and they sent me free samples! and advice! and encouragement! - who would of figured?  They are finicky, but when in Rome.....</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I like it!<br />
Tables:  they are expensive.  Yes, you can get them used.  Most of those who have them 2nd hand are word of mouth (only my exp.)  Someone I work for bought a 300&#8242; table compete with rails and electrical track for cutter for $100.  &#8211; they are out there.</p>
<p>Lifting:<br />
I worked on a farm with a man who was very nice and all, but when he had to lift something hard he turned into the Hulk, he would yell &#8220;do it, do it&#8221; and lift crazy things &#8211; really crazy.  I tried to do what he did a couple times, but that was a bad idea &#8211; jacks are best, and if your worried about the price check out Harbor Freight, very cheap and you get what you pay for but they do the immediate job.</p>
<p>Air Conditioner:<br />
I live in New England now, but I grew up in Arizona.  We did the swamp cooler thing, WOW they work very well in the dry heat, but they sure don&#8217;t work in the humid weather, so now I go without.  BTW, your right, when its bone dry heat and you walk into a mall its like eating ice cream too fast but all over.</p>
<p>Sales person:<br />
I have had many encounters with industrial sales people both professionally (the company I work for) and paraprofessional (my own company).  Two different experiences:  professionally, they treat me with kid gloves, the company I work for has been around for 200 years, paraprofessional:  they ask me all the questions.  Recently, I actually started answering them; you know what?&#8230; I was their cats meow and they sent me free samples! and advice! and encouragement! &#8211; who would of figured?  They are finicky, but when in Rome&#8230;..</p>
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		<title>By: Renee</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/going-from-prototype-to-production-sewing-pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-15567</link>
		<dc:creator>Renee</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jul 2009 00:16:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4482#comment-15567</guid>
		<description>If I were in NM I&#039;d be there to pick up the industrial overlock. I need one badly. I&#039;m currently using two 15+ year old then-top-of-the-line Pfaff Babylock home sergers. Can you say ssssslooooooooow?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If I were in NM I&#8217;d be there to pick up the industrial overlock. I need one badly. I&#8217;m currently using two 15+ year old then-top-of-the-line Pfaff Babylock home sergers. Can you say ssssslooooooooow?</p>
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