Comments on: Grading machines and rulers

By: Karen

Karen — Sat, 13 Mar 2010 14:15:06 +0000

My grandmother gave me a dario grad-o-meter, she was a pattern grader for over 25 years. She was this every day in the factory. She has taught me to use it. I’m afraid I still have to really think about it when I use it (which has been a while), Where even today, my grandmother who is almost 90 and has been retired for many years can grade without much thought. She’s amazing! I’m lucky to have the machine and all that goes with it.

By: Gusseted Magyar & Turban: 60’s Edith Head Pattern « The Stitchery

Gusseted Magyar & Turban: 60’s Edith Head Pattern « The Stitchery — Fri, 22 Jan 2010 22:36:38 +0000

[...] Our dear Fashion Incubator author, Kathleen Fasanella, ALMOST reviewed it in 2006 in her post on Grading Machines and Rulers and it was ALMOST discussed in 2004 at Pattern Review: Pattern grading ruler: New gizmo!! but it [...]

By: Kathleen

Kathleen — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 13:26:53 +0000

Brina, I wasn’t aware of Gamber’s book, I like Kidwell’s book very much. Btw, if anyone plans on doing any research at the Library of Congress, be sure to bring Kidwell’s book as a guide to source material.

I have a McDowell machine, bought it as a curiosity. I thought of writing an entry about it for fun. Maybe I will this week. It has one very unusual feature that I’ve long harped about. I also have a paper form, it is quite exemplary in it’s detail and engineering.

All: I’ve asked Brina about her Buddington, she says she’ll get me photos and pricing on Wednesday.

By: Brina

Brina — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 01:11:32 +0000

Louise,

You must be talking about the McDowell Garment Drafting Machine, although this would be a lot earlier than pre-1950. I think the last version was made about 1915, based on the model developed in 1879. They show up on ebay quite often.
Here’s some images: http://sawbonesantiques.com/inventory/m933.htm

There have been a lot of drafting machines over the years, at least since the late 1800’s–some paper, some plastic, some metal, some wood. Anyone who wants to know more about early drafting machines and dressmaking in general should read: “The female economy: the millinery and dressmaking trades, 1860-1930″ by Wendy Gamber. “Cutting a Fashionable Fit” by Claudia Kidwell is also good. Kidwell is head curator of the Costume Division of the Smithsonian Institution Museum of American History.

I have a drafting machine made of tin, The Buddington Improved Dress Cutting Machine, similar to the McDowell, that I would like to sell, if anyone is interested. It’s complete with all the pieces of the bodice and sleeve and instructions, although the box is worse for wear–I bought it like that though. I haven’t use it or the McDowell, but heard from a costumer that the McDowell makes great custom bodice patterns from a person’s measurements.

In any case, drafting machines are not the same as grading machines, in that the drafting machines are designed to make patterns to fit a particular body, where the grading machines, if it’s not already obvious, are to create a range of sizes of a particular garment for ready to wear manufacture.

By: Louise Briggs

Louise Briggs — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 20:47:06 +0000

I lost a friend’s vintage (pre 1950) brass patternmaking tool. It is in the shape of a bodice. It was made of adjustable brass strips with markings on the strips. i don’t know what it is called or who manufactured it. Any suggestions?

By: steve Y.

steve Y. — Thu, 28 Aug 2008 21:59:33 +0000

I used the Grad-o-meter for some years in LA in my shop. Got it from a man, was in business for 20 years. got it for $250 on payment. I loved it . It came with grading charts. It`s up to the designer on his or her grade strategy. fit varys
From company to company.A 2 inch grade is 2 inches is added to make larger.
Peace

By: sewiknittoo

sewiknittoo — Sun, 24 Aug 2008 08:06:33 +0000

Any idea of where I could locate a hinged grading ruler?? If I was to use plastic grid (which I cannot find either by the way) how would I go about grading my patterns with it?

By: Paulette Fein

Paulette Fein — Thu, 03 Apr 2008 22:58:16 +0000

I have a Sunny-Young “Accurate Speed-Grader MODEL P”
It is for sale……… please contact me if still interested.

Thanx.
Paulette Fein

By: Renee Uliana

Renee Uliana — Tue, 12 Feb 2008 20:48:42 +0000

I am so excited about finding this web site. I have a small children’s clothing manufacturing business and have been looking for a hinged grading ruler for a long time. My knowledge in grading is minimal but had the opportunity to borrow and use this particular ruler and loved it. All my seaching has been friutless! Where can I find this ruler?

By: Laura

Laura — Sat, 02 Feb 2008 16:33:38 +0000

Hi, was googling to find more info on grading patterns. I do not live in a city with a big tailor or sewing industry where can where can I purchase the hinged grading ruler?