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	<title>Comments on: H&amp;M Is Taking Over the World</title>
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	<description>How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better.</description>
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		<title>By: Tammy</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/comment-page-1/#comment-3810</link>
		<dc:creator>Tammy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Jul 2008 15:54:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/07/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/#comment-3810</guid>
		<description>I love both of them too.  I agree with Rosemary that the low rise thing is awful.  After puberty most women need to just stop wearing them.  Muffin top is now an epidemic.  Ladies with long waists and short legs appear to have even longer waists and much shorter legs, almost odd looking.

A past client of mine asked me to design a &quot;real&quot; poodle skirt for a masquerade party she was to attend.  I did so.  It was made the way they did it in the 50&#039;s, just as she asked.  As she was trying the muslin on, she complained that it didn&#039;t fit.  She said I needed to check my measurements, she couldn&#039;t believe how far off I was, how could I call myself a designer.
And it&#039;s too long!  It&#039;s too long!  Mortified, I went in the dressing room only to see her wrestling with the zipper... with the waistband just above her hip bone!   HONESTLY!
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I love both of them too.  I agree with Rosemary that the low rise thing is awful.  After puberty most women need to just stop wearing them.  Muffin top is now an epidemic.  Ladies with long waists and short legs appear to have even longer waists and much shorter legs, almost odd looking.</p>
<p>A past client of mine asked me to design a &#8220;real&#8221; poodle skirt for a masquerade party she was to attend.  I did so.  It was made the way they did it in the 50&#8217;s, just as she asked.  As she was trying the muslin on, she complained that it didn&#8217;t fit.  She said I needed to check my measurements, she couldn&#8217;t believe how far off I was, how could I call myself a designer.<br />
And it&#8217;s too long!  It&#8217;s too long!  Mortified, I went in the dressing room only to see her wrestling with the zipper&#8230; with the waistband just above her hip bone!   HONESTLY!</p>
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		<title>By: Rosemary</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/comment-page-1/#comment-3809</link>
		<dc:creator>Rosemary</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Jul 2008 14:45:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/07/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/#comment-3809</guid>
		<description>I absolutely love the style and cost at Zara, but the fit is a problem. I stick to buying dresses, tops and jackets from them and invest in more expensive bottoms.I find Dana Buchman, DKNY, and Ralph Lauren are sized for a curvier figure.  You can make a very trendy impression with the top half. The problem with the disappearing waists on young women was caused by years of low rise jeans- no pressure near the waist and is has just spread!
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I absolutely love the style and cost at Zara, but the fit is a problem. I stick to buying dresses, tops and jackets from them and invest in more expensive bottoms.I find Dana Buchman, DKNY, and Ralph Lauren are sized for a curvier figure.  You can make a very trendy impression with the top half. The problem with the disappearing waists on young women was caused by years of low rise jeans- no pressure near the waist and is has just spread!</p>
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		<title>By: Neil Adams</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/comment-page-1/#comment-3808</link>
		<dc:creator>Neil Adams</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 01 Sep 2006 13:58:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/07/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/#comment-3808</guid>
		<description>Hello mr.Chang your post is very informitive, however you mensioned in your article you were an Ex-manufacturer for &#039;H&amp;M&#039;, I&#039;m interested to know if you still operate as a manufacturer.E-mail- neiladams19@gmail.com
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello mr.Chang your post is very informitive, however you mensioned in your article you were an Ex-manufacturer for &#8216;H&#038;M&#8217;, I&#8217;m interested to know if you still operate as a manufacturer.E-mail- <a href="mailto:neiladams19@gmail.com">neiladams19@gmail.com</a></p>
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		<title>By: Andy Chang</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/comment-page-1/#comment-3807</link>
		<dc:creator>Andy Chang</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 19 Jul 2006 04:40:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/07/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/#comment-3807</guid>
		<description>Being an ex-manufacturer of H&amp;M, I have to say, although they claim to have a high quality standard and testing regiment are.  The price point which they are demanding will inevitably cause a serious fall out down the line.  Their price point is close to that of Costco and Walmart, which if anyone whose ever visited these store would know, although they maybe the cheapest, it is definitely not quality goods.  Which is a reason why I no longer accept H&amp;M orders. (Mainly because I didn&#039;t want to compromise on the quality of goods I produce.)

If you look carefully at both H&amp;M and Zara, the length of their pants if you pull 4 of the same size, the length can vary from 1 inch to 2 inches.  Even when you compare the left and right leg, you will notice that sometimes they have different length.

If you look even closer, you will notice that they have skipped needles on chain stitiches along the side seam and waistbands.  Areas where requiring double and triple needles, they don&#039;t have even width, meaning it was done by single needle and not by double or triple needle machines.

All these issues are due to customer&#039;s ever increasing need to have lower cost.  When cost are lowered, amount of people doing QC, in-line auditors are compromised because these are over head cost that have to be spread over all the products.  Some may argue that quality should not be viewed as a cost, according to lean manufacturing it actually increase productivity, which is true, but it still adds to cost and is a fixed cost in product.  When a customer wants cost lower than the factory&#039;s fixed cost, factory will have to find ways to lower these cost... but I digressed

Having said that, I do admire their ability to copy and their speed of decision making. They can descide on style and make bulk within 10 days where other customers require 2 months.

To conclude, I think their development model is worth noticing and their success is attributed to this model.  However, the price point which they manufacture their goods will eventually cost them.  They will find that the dye used in their goods are substandards.  The material used may carry certain chemicals that may cause allergic reaction.  These are cost that will offset the savings which they initially achieved through low cost manufacturing.  They may find that the workmanship of their goods are not as nice as the ones found in Nordstrom.

Zara and H&amp;M from the first look is great, but the product can not withstand a closer look.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Being an ex-manufacturer of H&#038;M, I have to say, although they claim to have a high quality standard and testing regiment are.  The price point which they are demanding will inevitably cause a serious fall out down the line.  Their price point is close to that of Costco and Walmart, which if anyone whose ever visited these store would know, although they maybe the cheapest, it is definitely not quality goods.  Which is a reason why I no longer accept H&#038;M orders. (Mainly because I didn&#8217;t want to compromise on the quality of goods I produce.)</p>
<p>If you look carefully at both H&#038;M and Zara, the length of their pants if you pull 4 of the same size, the length can vary from 1 inch to 2 inches.  Even when you compare the left and right leg, you will notice that sometimes they have different length.</p>
<p>If you look even closer, you will notice that they have skipped needles on chain stitiches along the side seam and waistbands.  Areas where requiring double and triple needles, they don&#8217;t have even width, meaning it was done by single needle and not by double or triple needle machines.</p>
<p>All these issues are due to customer&#8217;s ever increasing need to have lower cost.  When cost are lowered, amount of people doing QC, in-line auditors are compromised because these are over head cost that have to be spread over all the products.  Some may argue that quality should not be viewed as a cost, according to lean manufacturing it actually increase productivity, which is true, but it still adds to cost and is a fixed cost in product.  When a customer wants cost lower than the factory&#8217;s fixed cost, factory will have to find ways to lower these cost&#8230; but I digressed</p>
<p>Having said that, I do admire their ability to copy and their speed of decision making. They can descide on style and make bulk within 10 days where other customers require 2 months.</p>
<p>To conclude, I think their development model is worth noticing and their success is attributed to this model.  However, the price point which they manufacture their goods will eventually cost them.  They will find that the dye used in their goods are substandards.  The material used may carry certain chemicals that may cause allergic reaction.  These are cost that will offset the savings which they initially achieved through low cost manufacturing.  They may find that the workmanship of their goods are not as nice as the ones found in Nordstrom.</p>
<p>Zara and H&#038;M from the first look is great, but the product can not withstand a closer look.</p>
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		<title>By: Heather Knight</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/comment-page-1/#comment-3806</link>
		<dc:creator>Heather Knight</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jul 2006 18:06:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/07/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/#comment-3806</guid>
		<description>Most girls today aren&#039;t very hourglass shaped.   Is it the hormones in the food, bad posture, what?  Even now, at the fattest I have ever been, I still have a 12.5&quot; differance betwwn my waist and hips.  I also have a 6.5&quot; drop form my bust to my hips.  I make nearly all my own clothes, as it&#039;s hard to find quality.
The worse offenders for quality are in the bridal industry.  I am planning a wedding, and will make everything but the crinoline for my jr. bridesmaid and a top for Mob and Mog.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Most girls today aren&#8217;t very hourglass shaped.   Is it the hormones in the food, bad posture, what?  Even now, at the fattest I have ever been, I still have a 12.5&#8243; differance betwwn my waist and hips.  I also have a 6.5&#8243; drop form my bust to my hips.  I make nearly all my own clothes, as it&#8217;s hard to find quality.<br />
The worse offenders for quality are in the bridal industry.  I am planning a wedding, and will make everything but the crinoline for my jr. bridesmaid and a top for Mob and Mog.</p>
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		<title>By: Alisa Benay</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/comment-page-1/#comment-3805</link>
		<dc:creator>Alisa Benay</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jul 2006 02:51:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/07/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/#comment-3805</guid>
		<description>ARE there manufacturers that produce for hourglass figures? I have a difference of 16 inches from my waist to my hips.  I always have to buy pants to fit my hips, take them home and completely deconstruct and reconstruct them.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>ARE there manufacturers that produce for hourglass figures? I have a difference of 16 inches from my waist to my hips.  I always have to buy pants to fit my hips, take them home and completely deconstruct and reconstruct them.</p>
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		<title>By: La BellaDonna</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/comment-page-1/#comment-3804</link>
		<dc:creator>La BellaDonna</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jul 2006 17:01:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/07/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/#comment-3804</guid>
		<description>Kysha, when you say that the H&amp;M sizing is &quot;slender&quot; and that you&#039;re &quot;curvy and I find myself almost sized out of their bottoms&quot;, is it that the sizes aren&#039;t large enough for you (that is, they go up only to a 14, and you need a 16 or 18, or do you have the same complaint I have, that they are sized for a bust/waist/hip differential of 8&quot; or less?

Actually, if anyone has run into a manufacturer or designer whose fit &lt;i&gt;favours&lt;/i&gt; an hourglass shape, I&#039;d appreciate hearing about it.

</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kysha, when you say that the H&#038;M sizing is &#8220;slender&#8221; and that you&#8217;re &#8220;curvy and I find myself almost sized out of their bottoms&#8221;, is it that the sizes aren&#8217;t large enough for you (that is, they go up only to a 14, and you need a 16 or 18, or do you have the same complaint I have, that they are sized for a bust/waist/hip differential of 8&#8243; or less?</p>
<p>Actually, if anyone has run into a manufacturer or designer whose fit <i>favours</i> an hourglass shape, I&#8217;d appreciate hearing about it.</p>
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		<title>By: Kysha</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/comment-page-1/#comment-3803</link>
		<dc:creator>Kysha</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jul 2006 08:50:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/07/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/#comment-3803</guid>
		<description>I was first introduced to H&amp;M on a trip to NY (I havnt liked anything in the SF store)
and went crazy in there, I had just lost some weight after having my baby and wanted to buy something trendy &amp; cute but inexpensive.  I got a bunch of things and I must say I hardly ever wear them now.  The fit is def not for my body and although the clothes don&#039;t tear up in the wash they don&#039;t look great anymore either.

Zara on the other hand, has wonderful style that is more classic &amp; stylish than just trendy and the clothes do well in the wash. I just wish the sizing wasn&#039;t so uuuumm, slender?  I&#039;m curvy and I find myself almost sized out of their bottoms.

I&#039;ve never seen H&amp;M&#039;s kids stuff but Zara&#039;s is to die for!!  The girls shoes are incredible and the clothing is top quality!


</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was first introduced to H&#038;M on a trip to NY (I havnt liked anything in the SF store)<br />
and went crazy in there, I had just lost some weight after having my baby and wanted to buy something trendy &#038; cute but inexpensive.  I got a bunch of things and I must say I hardly ever wear them now.  The fit is def not for my body and although the clothes don&#8217;t tear up in the wash they don&#8217;t look great anymore either.</p>
<p>Zara on the other hand, has wonderful style that is more classic &#038; stylish than just trendy and the clothes do well in the wash. I just wish the sizing wasn&#8217;t so uuuumm, slender?  I&#8217;m curvy and I find myself almost sized out of their bottoms.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve never seen H&#038;M&#8217;s kids stuff but Zara&#8217;s is to die for!!  The girls shoes are incredible and the clothing is top quality!</p>
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		<title>By: Erica</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/comment-page-1/#comment-3802</link>
		<dc:creator>Erica</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jul 2006 03:09:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/07/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/#comment-3802</guid>
		<description>I was in Amsterdam 5 years ago when I first shopped in an H&amp;M and I&#039;ve been addicted every since.  I actually fly up to NYC just to shop there...mostly for my children.  I adore their toddler wear.  It&#039;s just a matter of time for them to open up a store here in Atlanta- it&#039;s a great market for the styles and prices.  I will feel sorry though for all the stores here that are already struggling.  It&#039;s tough to compete with these companies that have such high volume that they can keep their prices so low.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was in Amsterdam 5 years ago when I first shopped in an H&#038;M and I&#8217;ve been addicted every since.  I actually fly up to NYC just to shop there&#8230;mostly for my children.  I adore their toddler wear.  It&#8217;s just a matter of time for them to open up a store here in Atlanta- it&#8217;s a great market for the styles and prices.  I will feel sorry though for all the stores here that are already struggling.  It&#8217;s tough to compete with these companies that have such high volume that they can keep their prices so low.</p>
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		<title>By: La BellaDonna</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/comment-page-1/#comment-3801</link>
		<dc:creator>La BellaDonna</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 06 Jul 2006 19:49:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/07/hm_is_taking_over_the_world/#comment-3801</guid>
		<description>Unfortunately for me, I &lt;i&gt;love&lt;/i&gt; the Zara designs.  Not unfortunate in terms of wallet, although it could have been devastating; in terms of fit.  Their fit model seems to be closer to a junior figure, and unfortunately, I&#039;ve seldom been close to a junior figure (well, sometimes I stand next to one.  It happens.)  They may designate sizes as if they were misses&#039; sizes, but the fit doesn&#039;t correspond; it didn&#039;t matter if I went up or down in sizes, the proportions were just not the same as mine.  I&#039;ve found the same to be true at Arden B and, often, at H&amp;M

I was stunned to read recently (here?  Did I read it here?) that the majority of women nowadays have a bust/waist/hip differential of 8&quot; or less.  I am going to be completely doomed, in terms of off-the-rack shopping, if manufacturers all start sizing clothes based on that premise.  I thought that the majority of women were hourglass-shaped, but it appears that the sand has shifted.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Unfortunately for me, I <i>love</i> the Zara designs.  Not unfortunate in terms of wallet, although it could have been devastating; in terms of fit.  Their fit model seems to be closer to a junior figure, and unfortunately, I&#8217;ve seldom been close to a junior figure (well, sometimes I stand next to one.  It happens.)  They may designate sizes as if they were misses&#8217; sizes, but the fit doesn&#8217;t correspond; it didn&#8217;t matter if I went up or down in sizes, the proportions were just not the same as mine.  I&#8217;ve found the same to be true at Arden B and, often, at H&#038;M</p>
<p>I was stunned to read recently (here?  Did I read it here?) that the majority of women nowadays have a bust/waist/hip differential of 8&#8243; or less.  I am going to be completely doomed, in terms of off-the-rack shopping, if manufacturers all start sizing clothes based on that premise.  I thought that the majority of women were hourglass-shaped, but it appears that the sand has shifted.</p>
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