Comments on: How many notches are too many? http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-many-notches-are-too-many/ How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better. Wed, 20 Aug 2014 15:32:02 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.9.2 By: Judyhttp://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-many-notches-are-too-many/comment-page-1/#comment-158361 Tue, 16 Jul 2013 21:30:16 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=12961#comment-158361 Not all sleeves need notches in the back- I have a rain jacket pattern, the (raglan) sleeves are stitched flat. They have one notch in the front armhole seam where it matches with the side front seam. Thus, the back armhole seam does not need to be nothced. There is no ease in the raglan seam, there is no way to confuse the front and back. The seam allowance does not need nothces as the entire jacket has 1/4 inch seams -

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By: Theresa Hallhttp://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-many-notches-are-too-many/comment-page-1/#comment-158346 Mon, 15 Jul 2013 11:47:35 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=12961#comment-158346 Thanks for the reverse engineering thoughtfulness and discussion that follows. Design students need to get on board as well as college professors. An ongoing problem with many design schools are teachers who rely on old textbooks for their information and then the least practices are passed on again and again. All textbook authors should get a subscription to this website and read everything. Thank you Kathleen for your wealth of information from the field.

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By: Clara Ricohttp://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-many-notches-are-too-many/comment-page-1/#comment-158315 Fri, 12 Jul 2013 02:41:27 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=12961#comment-158315 Perhaps it is due to my machine or my sewing, but I can’t imagine that notching the seam allowances would be helpful enough to offset the annoyance. If I start sewing a seam where the machine isn’t grabbing the fabric well, it tends to cause problems with catching the bobbin thread and causing a tangled mess.

Would the stitchers start at the edge of the fabric and sew down the middle of the notch? With my machine, I would have to hold on to the threads until the machine was well into the fabric? Or would they have to spend extra time and effort to start at the end of the notch? Or, more likely, start to the side of the notch and purposely have incorrect seam allowance, just because it is easier?

If the seam allowance is standard, and the sewers sew the same item over and over again, I imagine that each seam allowance notch would seam like a slap in the face. As if the pattern maker is assuming the sewers are stupid.

At least that is what I imagine. Maybe their machines work better than mine, or it is different with an overlock.

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By: Natasha Ehttp://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-many-notches-are-too-many/comment-page-1/#comment-158298 Thu, 11 Jul 2013 05:46:53 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=12961#comment-158298 “we have a state-of-the art computer aided software system fueled by Gerber Technology that is upgraded yearly. In addition we have a digitizer and nine foot plotters that are used in the garment industry”

Many community colleges have the same setup either through donations from the company or from grant money. Students get so little hands on time or basic instructor that it doesn’t equal competency. 2 years isn’t a lot of time to get things down when you have to factor in general education courses. I’m finally graduating with my AA after 10 years and most of what I learnt was outside of the classroom from sites like this and the author of this post.

Also looking at Sally’s bio it looks the same as many community college fashion directors. 30+ years teaching with their industry days far behind them.

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By: Darahttp://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-many-notches-are-too-many/comment-page-1/#comment-158291 Wed, 10 Jul 2013 23:06:32 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=12961#comment-158291 Wow, my eyes hurt looking at that. Takes me back to my fur making days. I agree with Esther. That is for too many for standard knits, woven, or leather. Sally, as someone who uses Gerber every day, notches are optional depending on equipment and material you are working with. You the pattern maker will add them in the system as you go. In the fur industry (which I’ve worked in and my aunt was a designer for decades), it is much more common to notch everything like the example here because of how soft and pliable the material you are working with is instead of fixing your pattern or adjusting your machine which can be fussy on a Bonis, etc. because the fabric is held in the air for sewing instead of under feed dogs so the feed rate is not steady due to operator error (fur also does not fray and hides any blemishes if a seam notch is too deep). This does not carry over to the industry or sewing equipment as a whole, especially fabrics sewn on properly balanced machines with feed dogs, having clean patterns reduces work for your sewing line and makes your employees happy because they have to fight the fabric less and lowers your return rates. Our Gerber version 3.0 from 2008 has 7 difference types of notches it makes, all custom. Blaming the software is sloppy work instead of listening to what Kathleen is saying. Kathleen tends to pick industry norms instead of the exceptions.

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By: Kathleen Fasanellahttp://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-many-notches-are-too-many/comment-page-1/#comment-158288 Wed, 10 Jul 2013 19:17:17 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=12961#comment-158288

I enjoy the discussion of notches, but then I was a participant in the pop quiz on them. ;-)

Lisa, you were more than a participant, you were the winner! I use that post with your solution as an example for my pattern classes.

I just showed this pattern to Martha (remember, she was my boss and the pattern room supervisor for 10 years) and she just laughed and rolled her eyes. I’m having her cut a sample of it for sewing but she had to clarify twice that yes, I do want her to cut it out exactly like this.

This pattern has a lot of problems. I mean a lot. None of the seams line up, the markings are wrong (note the photo above, one piece is marked left front, the other right front), the allowances are wrong (1/2″ in the neckline? really?) which is why, again, that too many notches is a cognitive shortcut to a pattern not being production ready so it won’t be processed for a test sew until it is cleaned up.

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By: deborahhttp://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-many-notches-are-too-many/comment-page-1/#comment-158287 Wed, 10 Jul 2013 18:47:54 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=12961#comment-158287 Is that my first pattern? It looks like it. It will follow me around for the rest of my life. Blech.

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By: Patriciahttp://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-many-notches-are-too-many/comment-page-1/#comment-158285 Wed, 10 Jul 2013 17:40:59 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=12961#comment-158285 This reminds me my first patterns as a student. I notched them everywhere and of course, notched all seam allowances. Teacher told me that standard seam allowances (1cm) are never notched.

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By: Estherhttp://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-many-notches-are-too-many/comment-page-1/#comment-158282 Wed, 10 Jul 2013 17:22:41 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=12961#comment-158282 I was similarly trained in school to use notches to indicate seam width. Once I started work as a junior pattern maker I was amazed at how few notches were on the patterns. I’m not sure where the idea that notches are needed to indicate seam width came from, but it really is not necessary in most circumstances. This is because an operator should be using the machine set up for the seam in the first place. In application, the operator aligns the material with the edge of the foot or bed of the machine and zips it through. The operator doesn’t have to think about it.

There are other problems that come with this many notches. Notches cost more money to cut. Notch depth can interfere with seam integrity, and cause seam blowouts (where the notch is not enclosed in the seam). Slit notches can cause runs in knits or fray out on certain fabrics. V-notches increase fabric usage. IMO, the fewer the notches the better.

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By: Lisa Blankhttp://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-many-notches-are-too-many/comment-page-1/#comment-158281 Wed, 10 Jul 2013 16:52:41 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=12961#comment-158281 Kathleen, I follow your points about which notches wind up useless. I was able to “see” how each seam would look if this pattern were sewn. I think a sewn sample would definitely be helpful for those who aren’t familiar with sewing or aren’t able to “see” the progression and results.

I enjoy the discussion of notches, but then I was a participant in the pop quiz on them. ;-)

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