Comments on: How to check for nap & one-ways http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-check-for-nap-one-ways/ How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better. Sat, 11 Feb 2012 22:49:13 -0800 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 hourly 1 By: Lisa Blank http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-check-for-nap-one-ways/comment-page-1/#comment-23889 Lisa Blank Mon, 14 Jun 2010 13:15:44 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4152#comment-23889 Perfect. The photos are back. Thanks for the heads up. Perfect. The photos are back. Thanks for the heads up.

]]> By: Kathleen http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-check-for-nap-one-ways/comment-page-1/#comment-23868 Kathleen Sun, 13 Jun 2010 22:55:06 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4152#comment-23868 The server I had been storing all my image files on during this time period, has been a bit wonky lately. It's 4:54 PM MST and they're loading fine for me. Try re-visiting and let me know if you have a problem. thanks. The server I had been storing all my image files on during this time period, has been a bit wonky lately. It’s 4:54 PM MST and they’re loading fine for me. Try re-visiting and let me know if you have a problem. thanks.

]]> By: Lisa Blank http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-check-for-nap-one-ways/comment-page-1/#comment-23867 Lisa Blank Sun, 13 Jun 2010 22:06:17 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4152#comment-23867 Sometime when you have nothing to do (!), would you check if you still have the photos for this entry? I wonder if they went missing during a site reorganization or something? Anyway, this entry is so practical and useful. The text is self-explanatory, but the photos would be good re-inforcement. Sometime when you have nothing to do (!), would you check if you still have the photos for this entry? I wonder if they went missing during a site reorganization or something? Anyway, this entry is so practical and useful. The text is self-explanatory, but the photos would be good re-inforcement.

]]> By: Connie http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-check-for-nap-one-ways/comment-page-1/#comment-14329 Connie Fri, 12 Jun 2009 07:17:05 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4152#comment-14329 Your comment Kathleen on photographing fabric reminded me of an incident my husband had when he was interviewed on TV. We ( the family) sent him off looking very spiffy in what we thought was a dark maroon tie and a lighter maroon shirt. What showed up on camera was a purple tie on a bright red shirt and I also realized that the camera can pick up color differently than the eye does, something I was completely unaware of. We have scrapped that combination for future interviews. Your comment Kathleen on photographing fabric reminded me of an incident my husband had when he was interviewed on TV. We ( the family) sent him off looking very spiffy in what we thought was a dark maroon tie and a lighter maroon shirt. What showed up on camera was a purple tie on a bright red shirt and I also realized that the camera can pick up color differently than the eye does, something I was completely unaware of. We have scrapped that combination for future interviews.

]]> By: Marilynn http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-check-for-nap-one-ways/comment-page-1/#comment-14283 Marilynn Thu, 11 Jun 2009 02:53:53 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4152#comment-14283 It seems to me that this particular issue is about stretch, but it was faster to obfuscate the problem by referring to nap. She needs to read up on one-way vs. 2-way stretch and how long the "memory" lasts in the fabric. Stretched-out, baggy knees surely makes a garment look shabby fast. DIA mentioned problems with incorrect tension for sewing knits. Pressure on the presser-foot also makes for a mess. In teaching sewing to beginners I found that the cheaper machines do not allow pressure changes and can make a mess of a knit really fast. I once had a woman stretch the crotch of her first pair of pants twice the length of the original seam by pulling on the seam, while stitching with a $100 homesewing machine. It was a great laugh and a perfect lesson in why we start sewing on woven cotton. It seems to me that this particular issue is about stretch, but it was faster to obfuscate the problem by referring to nap. She needs to read up on one-way vs. 2-way stretch and how long the “memory” lasts in the fabric. Stretched-out, baggy knees surely makes a garment look shabby fast. DIA mentioned problems with incorrect tension for sewing knits. Pressure on the presser-foot also makes for a mess. In teaching sewing to beginners I found that the cheaper machines do not allow pressure changes and can make a mess of a knit really fast. I once had a woman stretch the crotch of her first pair of pants twice the length of the original seam by pulling on the seam, while stitching with a $100 homesewing machine. It was a great laugh and a perfect lesson in why we start sewing on woven cotton.

]]> By: Dia in MA http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-check-for-nap-one-ways/comment-page-1/#comment-14266 Dia in MA Wed, 10 Jun 2009 22:32:10 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4152#comment-14266 I've hesitated posting since I don't work in this field even though I love reading this blog. I'm flashing back to when I worked one summer in a genuine American sweat shop many year ago. The place went out of business after a string of problems related to this type of issue. The company was a subcontractor that did only the stitching and finishing. Not the cutting. In one case, the supplier was too cheap in cutting out the pieces. The contract was for a "no trimming" job. This proved impossible due to bad cutting. I saw collar pieces with matching tags where one piece was 3 inches longer than the other due to a combination of stretching of the knit and bad cutting. In another case, no instructions were provided about altering tension for a jersey knit that turned out to be delicate. Every piece developed holes near the seams and was sent back as a reject. Denim and other twill weaves are notorious for having diagonal stretch when cut off grain, as well as different shrink on the length than the width. I don't think the correct term is nap. However, my shop experience has me thinking that contractor is a smart one. I’ve hesitated posting since I don’t work in this field even though I love reading this blog. I’m flashing back to when I worked one summer in a genuine American sweat shop many year ago. The place went out of business after a string of problems related to this type of issue. The company was a subcontractor that did only the stitching and finishing. Not the cutting.

In one case, the supplier was too cheap in cutting out the pieces. The contract was for a “no trimming” job. This proved impossible due to bad cutting. I saw collar pieces with matching tags where one piece was 3 inches longer than the other due to a combination of stretching of the knit and bad cutting.

In another case, no instructions were provided about altering tension for a jersey knit that turned out to be delicate. Every piece developed holes near the seams and was sent back as a reject.

Denim and other twill weaves are notorious for having diagonal stretch when cut off grain, as well as different shrink on the length than the width. I don’t think the correct term is nap. However, my shop experience has me thinking that contractor is a smart one.

]]> By: Rita Yussoupova http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-check-for-nap-one-ways/comment-page-1/#comment-14217 Rita Yussoupova Tue, 09 Jun 2009 16:34:36 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4152#comment-14217 From my past experience as some companies cut one way or napped fabrics as it is two way and mark the cut tablets A and B direction so they bungle all A cut tablets together and all B cut tablets together and assemble them this way. Also the garments are shipped separately to different stores so that some stores only have A cut direction garments and other stores only have B cut direction garments on the racks. It does not work with prints if the images have top and bottom such as animal, faces etc. It is a more costly to run production this way as someone has to monitor all this it also is more time consumming - it is a big headache. From my past experience as some companies cut one way or napped fabrics as it is
two way and mark the cut tablets A and B direction so they bungle all A cut tablets together and all B cut tablets together and assemble them this way. Also the garments are shipped separately to different stores so that some stores only have A cut direction garments and other stores only have B cut direction garments on the racks. It does not work with prints
if the images have top and bottom such as animal, faces etc.
It is a more costly to run production this way as someone has to monitor all this it also is more time consumming – it is a big headache.

]]> By: dosfashionistas http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-check-for-nap-one-ways/comment-page-1/#comment-14205 dosfashionistas Mon, 08 Jun 2009 22:35:57 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4152#comment-14205 On some one way fabrics, though not the pile fabrics, you can use a marker with two separate garments cut in opposite directions. It will be shaded from garment to garment, but not in the garment. Be sure the garments are marked A and B in the marker. Naturally this does not work for a one way print either. But it might work on the twill mentioned. All A and B garments would have to be processed and hung separately, so that a store would not get A pants and B jackets but would get all their order from either A or B. On some one way fabrics, though not the pile fabrics, you can use a marker with two separate garments cut in opposite directions. It will be shaded from garment to garment, but not in the garment. Be sure the garments are marked A and B in the marker. Naturally this does not work for a one way print either. But it might work on the twill mentioned. All A and B garments would have to be processed and hung separately, so that a store would not get A pants and B jackets but would get all their order from either A or B.

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