How to remove sleeve cap ease

If you thought I’d departed permanently, no such luck. As you may recall, I’ve been away, training with my new CAD system StyleCAD (I like it a lot). That session finished Tuesday evening. Since then I’ve been catching up and practicing my skills -such as they are- on various styles. One of which is the aforementioned sport coat project.

If you recall, I’d written an entry about how to reshape armholes. Reshaping armholes is the first step to a nice fitting sleeve. It is only once the armhole is shaped to fit a human body and the normal range of motion (see pgs 166-168 of my book), that the sleeve can be reshaped -because as I’ve mentioned, sleeve cap ease is bogus. The latter amounts to a work around to compensate for a poorly designed sleeve and armhole. Truthfully, well designed sleeves are difficult so I can understand why they’re given short thrift particularly in value priced lines. In suits and coats though, it becomes more critical regardless of price point.

In the forum I updated the ongoing thread with a screen capture of the new armhole design. A picture of the result -courtesy of my new software (doesn’t this look so much cleaner?)- appears below. There is also a slightly larger version of the image.

smaller_armhole_before_after

I will begin attempting to document the redesign of the sleeve to remove unnecessary ease as best as I can. Unfortunately, sleeve design can be something of an art in that it is an accumulation of experience and refined eye which is a round about way of saying I lack the means to articulate what needs to be done. Wish me luck!

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