I couldn’t agree more. If I hadn’t finally had the time to take some classes, I’d still be pin-balling around the web, reading sites (although I remain an avid reader and I pride myself on knowing something about the history and rationale of garment construction techniques). Even when a particular class didn’t offer exactly what I wanted, I learned a lot of skills and it was helpful to be directed to do particular things.

Also, what book would you recommend for a neophyte with a set of blocks, who wants help with drafting different necklines, collars, sleeves, etc.?

My key suggested book was actually linked to in this entry but I know it’s a lot to check them all. You may actually have seen this already. If you’re on a budget, Handford’s drafting book is good.

Now, i see this isn’t the best way to get started. Instead, it sounds like I should begin by copying my ill-fitting clothes, altering the copies so they fit, and then using a pattern from that as my block. Does this make sense to the experts?

Also, what book would you recommend for a neophyte with a set of blocks, who wants help with drafting different necklines, collars, sleeves, etc.?

I am learning so much from F-I … and I ordered The Book yesterday. Thanks, Kathleen. [And I did click the notify button this time ]

I just came across this website and I agree with your assessment of Helen Joseph Armstrong’s book. I have the 4th Edition. I am a part-time student at a college in Toronto, Canada. Last year I took the Pattern Marking Level I class and we had to purchase the book. That is the only pattern book they sell.

I find this book to be very confusing and with a lot of mistakes. Some of the teachers have indicated this also as well as some students who are really good at pattern making. They also take the full time course which is much more intense. I also am a member of Threads and apparently as member who was taught by Ms. Armstrong mentioned to her that she too had problems with her book. Ms. Armstrong was very upset that there were problems.

I don’t sew as often as I should and I thought that taking a pattern drafting course, I would understand more about sewing. I find her steps are not complete. I try to listen and learn from the teacher who is teaching (she knows her stuff) but when you get home after taking notes (or trying to take them and look and listen) I tend to forgot. For an example, she may have taught about the empire line toro basically and then she gives you homework where it is a diffent empire line sketch. You review it and then you hope by reviewing her book, it will help you out a bit. I find that you only get half the answer, if at all. Also, I agree with you regarding the index. It is very confusing. Also when you need to know something about the empire toro, for example, you have to look all over the place in order to find the answer. Which is not that often.

I am going to review Connie’s book by getting it from the Library, if they have it and if I think it is helpful. I may buy it. I paid $124.00 plus tax for Armstrong’s book and I don’t have a lot of money to buy another. Also, I try and go on the internet and there is not much help on the sites as well. It is also helpful in these books that they show you visually as well as written.

The thing I am finding very hard is to create a pattern that has to have a lot of variations in it. For example am empire dress that has gathers in the front, with a scope neck and flare body and the bad that has two darts on the back shoulders as well as on the bottom bodice and a flare body front and back. What pattern book would help with something like that?

I hope to hear from you soon.

It has never failed me, but you see, I went to design school –and loved and learned every minute–but, I started every pattern from the very beginning (a line on a GREAT BIG PIECE OF BROWN PATTERN PAPER). So I used to be filled with guilt when I did this. Not anymore.

Having worked in the industry, I have seen many times that a new design was patterned from a tracing of the pattern/ patterns of other old designs that have the appropriate shape. Since the fit worked for that one, with a little tweak here and there, the new design achieves a similar fit. The company is a couture bridal/evening wear design house that has produced wedding gowns for several stars and other high profile women. So if they can do it…so can I.

I used to be plus-sized and always struggled to fit patterns. After many failures and random successes, I decided to make a few patterns fit me properly and base my entire wardrobe on those patterns, with variations. I called those patterns my “basic shapes” and I chose them carefully. There was a princess blouse, dart-fitted blouse, princess jacket, knit top with darts, knit top with princess seams, slacks, and jeans. (I don’t wear skirts and I’m curvey, so princess seams work well on me).

When I want to sew a new pattern, I choose the basic shape that is closes to the new pattern, then morph the details of the new pattern on to the basic shape.

Now my clothes fit as I like them (not perfectly, but much better than RTW) and I don’t spend a lot of time fitting muslins of every new pattern.