Comments on: How to create grade rules 2

By: Kathleen Fasanella

Kathleen Fasanella — Mon, 28 Feb 2011 16:02:35 +0000

See Espionage for better sizing (also part two) for help with information gathering.

By: Dell

Dell — Sat, 26 Feb 2011 22:29:54 +0000

where can one find grade rules that apply to activewear and sports team uniforms?

By: Fashion Incubator » What are grade specs, grade rules and grade rule libraries?

Fashion Incubator » What are grade specs, grade rules and grade rule libraries? — Fri, 11 Feb 2011 12:30:37 +0000

[...] How to create grade rules pt.1 How to create grade rules pt.2 How to create grade rules pt.3 Things you must know if you have a clothing line: garment measuring [...]

By: Kathleen

Kathleen — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 20:57:13 +0000

Kite, or anyone else interested, I just got word that Sage Journals has opened their archives to the public, free for the month of October. Get it while the getting's good. Whee! My fix for the year.

By: kathleen

kathleen — Sat, 08 Aug 2009 14:53:47 +0000

Kite, being a commercial B2B site, the priority is to link to the best sources, not the free sources. If it happens to be both, that’s awesome but it’s usually not. Iow, it’s not a crime that Rekha linked to a pay site (Sage, for academics).

But in this case Kite, I wouldn’t worry about the article Rekha mentions and don’t agree it is critical (her “Dr.” credentials are not related to sewing). It’s one of many journal articles written saying that the way textbooks say to do grading is wrong (duh, which is why we don’t do it that way) sizing charts in them are wrong (duh, which is why we don’t use them) and lastly, “we” are bad guys because we are not using the standardized sizing charts which were previously deemed wrong. Seriously. I can’t tell you how many articles I’ve read along these lines. They love love love to throw in references to the Shelton study, how inappropriate and wrong it was and later on, blame garment manufacturers for not following those standards. And no, I’m not kidding.

In short, why buy this article, likely you can get this article from your closest University library (at least it works that way in the US). They usually have a subscription to Sage. Sage opens their database for free to the public usually for the month of October and I announce it but I doubt but one or two follow up on it. Keep it in mind this Oct.

By: Kite

Kite — Sat, 08 Aug 2009 14:07:09 +0000

That link is to a resource not accessible to the public. It requires payment.

By: Dr Rekha Sharma

Dr Rekha Sharma — Thu, 03 Apr 2008 11:38:57 +0000

I would urge anyone interested in the validity of grading parameters to read this document http://ctr.sagepub.com/cgi/content/abstract/23/1/13.

“Only 17% of the measurements were found
useful for grade rule formation” quote from the article.

By: Dr Rekha Sharma

Dr Rekha Sharma — Wed, 02 Apr 2008 14:06:10 +0000

Since girth is really horizontal measures: Kathleen

Well, girth could also be dealt with by assuming it is a cube (but two faces with different dimensions from the remaining). Does that make grading more accurate?

By: Rachel

Rachel — Wed, 02 Apr 2008 00:27:27 +0000

I would love for you (of course it’s crazy work) to put together a short instructional video where you grade just the front bodice from a 5 to 6. There is nothing out there like it and I know that so many people out there (myself!) are visual learners.

This is a wonderful series. Thank you!

By: dosfashionistas

dosfashionistas — Tue, 01 Apr 2008 20:26:36 +0000

I’m glad you are doing armholes. I still get uncertain that I am translating the length and width grades correctly in places (such as armholes and sleeves) where the line that I am blending is on a diagonal. Especially where I am grading over a wide range of sizes, and a small discrepancy can be compounded geometrically by the time you get to the last size graded. (This is a particular problem in plus sizes, as the sample size is 16W and you go up from there. Coni Crawford has the right idea to work from a 22W base size.)

And I am so glad to know you got the books and are finding them interesting.

Sarah@dosfashionistas