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	<title>Comments on: How to hire a pattern maker pt.46</title>
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	<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_hire_a_pattern_maker_pt46/</link>
	<description>How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better.</description>
	<pubDate>Fri, 21 Nov 2008 06:54:16 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: Emma</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_hire_a_pattern_maker_pt46/#comment-9335</link>
		<dc:creator>Emma</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Jan 2008 13:46:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/how_to_hire_a_pattern_maker_pt46/#comment-9335</guid>
		<description>Oops, I found a little type-misstake in my post earlier..sock knitting machines normally have 1 or 2 sets of needels. :) (haha...if anyone´s that interested that is.)
/Emma
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Oops, I found a little type-misstake in my post earlier..sock knitting machines normally have 1 or 2 sets of needels. <img src='http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> (haha&#8230;if anyone´s that interested that is.)<br />
/Emma</p>
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		<title>By: Liana</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_hire_a_pattern_maker_pt46/#comment-9334</link>
		<dc:creator>Liana</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Jan 2008 00:09:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/how_to_hire_a_pattern_maker_pt46/#comment-9334</guid>
		<description>I just got a book called "The Art of Knitting" by Francoise Tellier-Loumagne (ISBN-13: 978-0-500-28557-2) that is kind of an overview of what one can do with modern industrial knitting machines, as well as other techniques.  She talks a lot about the fact that design schools don't prepare students to design knitwear or knitted fabric well, and in most cases, it's because the newer types of machines to make these fabrics are unavailable to the schools, because of price, and also because a particular type of machine may be made to make a particular item or fabric for one manufacturer.  Lots of them are proprietary, and they don't even want students visiting.  In some cases, the machine manufacturers own the machines and they customize them for each fabric, so what made the hot thing a few years ago may not even exist anymore, as it's been re-tooled for something new.  As you may guess, they're not in the US either.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just got a book called &#8220;The Art of Knitting&#8221; by Francoise Tellier-Loumagne (ISBN-13: 978-0-500-28557-2) that is kind of an overview of what one can do with modern industrial knitting machines, as well as other techniques.  She talks a lot about the fact that design schools don&#8217;t prepare students to design knitwear or knitted fabric well, and in most cases, it&#8217;s because the newer types of machines to make these fabrics are unavailable to the schools, because of price, and also because a particular type of machine may be made to make a particular item or fabric for one manufacturer.  Lots of them are proprietary, and they don&#8217;t even want students visiting.  In some cases, the machine manufacturers own the machines and they customize them for each fabric, so what made the hot thing a few years ago may not even exist anymore, as it&#8217;s been re-tooled for something new.  As you may guess, they&#8217;re not in the US either.</p>
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		<title>By: Emma</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_hire_a_pattern_maker_pt46/#comment-9333</link>
		<dc:creator>Emma</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Jan 2008 17:26:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/how_to_hire_a_pattern_maker_pt46/#comment-9333</guid>
		<description>Ive was working with socks for a major apparel company a few years back and I agree with the above. Patterns are not used, only m.charts and technical specifications. If we are takling about regular (fine-knit) socks they are knitted in round knitting machines, 2 or 3 sets of needles. A flat pattern is of no use at all.

Things that will affect the m.ments are e.g. compozition of the yarn, gauge and which supplier you are working with (which machines they have and how they are set).

If you are making nylon stockings that is a totally diffrent process which requiers special measuring tools and I would personally (if I had my own business) leave the "pattern making" to the supplier. No doubt! :)

Good Luck!
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ive was working with socks for a major apparel company a few years back and I agree with the above. Patterns are not used, only m.charts and technical specifications. If we are takling about regular (fine-knit) socks they are knitted in round knitting machines, 2 or 3 sets of needles. A flat pattern is of no use at all.</p>
<p>Things that will affect the m.ments are e.g. compozition of the yarn, gauge and which supplier you are working with (which machines they have and how they are set).</p>
<p>If you are making nylon stockings that is a totally diffrent process which requiers special measuring tools and I would personally (if I had my own business) leave the &#8220;pattern making&#8221; to the supplier. No doubt! <img src='http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /><br />
Good Luck!</p>
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		<title>By: Georgene</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_hire_a_pattern_maker_pt46/#comment-9332</link>
		<dc:creator>Georgene</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Jan 2008 15:46:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/how_to_hire_a_pattern_maker_pt46/#comment-9332</guid>
		<description>At first reading, one wonders why you would need a patternmaker for a sock design. A knitted product is generally done thru technical specification as noted by Nadine above.

However, this potential client may have a different concept, more along the lines of a non-knitted Polartec sock (see the Green Pepper pattern), and that is not made clear by the question. I would have to say 'not enough info' for a full reply.

I have done a ton of knit sweater development in my checkered career. I do not knit, but I did learn about yarn size, stitches, and gauge, in order to be able to specify my designs to commercial manufacturers. I'm just a designer/patternmaker that happened to be designing sweaters for a awhile. There are a lot of different kinds of knitting out there, and vanishingly few are available in the USA today.

In the greater NYC metropolitan area it is still possible to do what is known as 'cut and sew sweater knits'. Strips of sweater cloth with a finished sweater start are knitted, then laid up and cut by specialized sweater cutters. It's very different at the cutting end of things, then becomes more like a regular knit cut and sew in stitching. At the end, in finishing, cut and sew sweaters have to be pressed on a special frame, so the end of the process is very different too. For this you do need to make a pattern, and graded sets of patterns. There is a lot of wastage, as there can be a lot of scrap after cutting. Since yarn, dyeing, and knitting are paid *by the pound*, you are just throwing money away with the scrap.

Full-fashioned sweater knitting, the actual shape of the sweater is knit to size with finished edges and then linked together on a special machine. This way, you do not throw away yarn. It is a very different process, and not much done in this country anymore. For full-fashioned knitting, you would do a detailed technical specification rather than an actual pattern, and probably have to send it to China, India, Bangladesh, or Peru.

That is why I would say 'not enough info', having no real clue what this product actually entails. To say "I have a sock design I want to make" doesn't tell me much. I am guessing that this person doesn't need a 'regular' patternmaker. No harm in paying a visit to the one that they found, just for the excercise of getting their stuff together and making their presentation to the pattern service. Chances are however that this is not the right service for them and they will have to go father afield.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>At first reading, one wonders why you would need a patternmaker for a sock design. A knitted product is generally done thru technical specification as noted by Nadine above.</p>
<p>However, this potential client may have a different concept, more along the lines of a non-knitted Polartec sock (see the Green Pepper pattern), and that is not made clear by the question. I would have to say &#8216;not enough info&#8217; for a full reply.</p>
<p>I have done a ton of knit sweater development in my checkered career. I do not knit, but I did learn about yarn size, stitches, and gauge, in order to be able to specify my designs to commercial manufacturers. I&#8217;m just a designer/patternmaker that happened to be designing sweaters for a awhile. There are a lot of different kinds of knitting out there, and vanishingly few are available in the USA today.</p>
<p>In the greater NYC metropolitan area it is still possible to do what is known as &#8216;cut and sew sweater knits&#8217;. Strips of sweater cloth with a finished sweater start are knitted, then laid up and cut by specialized sweater cutters. It&#8217;s very different at the cutting end of things, then becomes more like a regular knit cut and sew in stitching. At the end, in finishing, cut and sew sweaters have to be pressed on a special frame, so the end of the process is very different too. For this you do need to make a pattern, and graded sets of patterns. There is a lot of wastage, as there can be a lot of scrap after cutting. Since yarn, dyeing, and knitting are paid *by the pound*, you are just throwing money away with the scrap.</p>
<p>Full-fashioned sweater knitting, the actual shape of the sweater is knit to size with finished edges and then linked together on a special machine. This way, you do not throw away yarn. It is a very different process, and not much done in this country anymore. For full-fashioned knitting, you would do a detailed technical specification rather than an actual pattern, and probably have to send it to China, India, Bangladesh, or Peru.</p>
<p>That is why I would say &#8216;not enough info&#8217;, having no real clue what this product actually entails. To say &#8220;I have a sock design I want to make&#8221; doesn&#8217;t tell me much. I am guessing that this person doesn&#8217;t need a &#8216;regular&#8217; patternmaker. No harm in paying a visit to the one that they found, just for the excercise of getting their stuff together and making their presentation to the pattern service. Chances are however that this is not the right service for them and they will have to go father afield.</p>
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		<title>By: Teijo</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_hire_a_pattern_maker_pt46/#comment-9331</link>
		<dc:creator>Teijo</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Jan 2008 15:32:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/how_to_hire_a_pattern_maker_pt46/#comment-9331</guid>
		<description>I don't have any personal experience in this field, but the subject does bring back some memories.

A dear friend of mine had a line that included socks and stockings. She once told me that while her contractors were able to produce items that would last many years most of their clients did not want that. She did. The name of her brand was woven boldly into the soles of her styles, and while the price was not low they were made to last.

Two days ago I wore a pair of socks that I inherited from her about ten years ago. A fashion photograph I happened on in the archives of a modeling agency dates them as being manufactured in the mid-1980s. The three pairs of her socks I own have lasted even as all others I've bought have been destroyed - and they weren't new when I got them.

My friend's niece has owned the company and the brand for some years now, but even now, every now and then when I take off my shoes to enter someone's home or a Japanese inn, the soles of my feet advertise the legacy of a designer who took pride not only in the form but also in the quality of her products.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I don&#8217;t have any personal experience in this field, but the subject does bring back some memories.</p>
<p>A dear friend of mine had a line that included socks and stockings. She once told me that while her contractors were able to produce items that would last many years most of their clients did not want that. She did. The name of her brand was woven boldly into the soles of her styles, and while the price was not low they were made to last.</p>
<p>Two days ago I wore a pair of socks that I inherited from her about ten years ago. A fashion photograph I happened on in the archives of a modeling agency dates them as being manufactured in the mid-1980s. The three pairs of her socks I own have lasted even as all others I&#8217;ve bought have been destroyed - and they weren&#8217;t new when I got them.</p>
<p>My friend&#8217;s niece has owned the company and the brand for some years now, but even now, every now and then when I take off my shoes to enter someone&#8217;s home or a Japanese inn, the soles of my feet advertise the legacy of a designer who took pride not only in the form but also in the quality of her products.</p>
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		<title>By: nadine</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_hire_a_pattern_maker_pt46/#comment-9330</link>
		<dc:creator>nadine</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Jan 2008 14:12:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/how_to_hire_a_pattern_maker_pt46/#comment-9330</guid>
		<description>I agree with the above comment.  So many small start up companies want a local person to make their patterns and prototypes but don't realize that they will have to do that all again with their manufacturer.  I do some freelance work with a company that specializes in socks and gloves.  For them it is a spec'ing game.  They send detailed specs for knits they send a knit graph or grid (don't know the professional name) and wait for the sample from the factory.  Local people can make a prototype if the factory can't figure out some detail but that's all we are good for since we don't manufacture and we don't have local connections to specialized manufacture which in many cases is long gone from the US.  All manufacturers have in house sample making capability, pattern blocks etc.  So you just need to tweak some details but can start with something close.

My experience in accessories is that the small design firms want local samples because they intend to use them to "sell" at a show or for some "selling or showing" purposes.  Maybe having something tangible gives a feeling of accomplishment.  However, since the mfg side of the equation is not solved they are in a rut if they can't get it made once those orders come in.  My advice which is ignored a lot is to solve your mfg first and your designs will come! What's the use if the local sample maker can lovingly make something by hand but the factory can't figure it out?

Good post as usual!
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I agree with the above comment.  So many small start up companies want a local person to make their patterns and prototypes but don&#8217;t realize that they will have to do that all again with their manufacturer.  I do some freelance work with a company that specializes in socks and gloves.  For them it is a spec&#8217;ing game.  They send detailed specs for knits they send a knit graph or grid (don&#8217;t know the professional name) and wait for the sample from the factory.  Local people can make a prototype if the factory can&#8217;t figure out some detail but that&#8217;s all we are good for since we don&#8217;t manufacture and we don&#8217;t have local connections to specialized manufacture which in many cases is long gone from the US.  All manufacturers have in house sample making capability, pattern blocks etc.  So you just need to tweak some details but can start with something close.</p>
<p>My experience in accessories is that the small design firms want local samples because they intend to use them to &#8220;sell&#8221; at a show or for some &#8220;selling or showing&#8221; purposes.  Maybe having something tangible gives a feeling of accomplishment.  However, since the mfg side of the equation is not solved they are in a rut if they can&#8217;t get it made once those orders come in.  My advice which is ignored a lot is to solve your mfg first and your designs will come! What&#8217;s the use if the local sample maker can lovingly make something by hand but the factory can&#8217;t figure it out?</p>
<p>Good post as usual!</p>
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		<title>By: Esther</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_hire_a_pattern_maker_pt46/#comment-9329</link>
		<dc:creator>Esther</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Jan 2008 20:00:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/01/how_to_hire_a_pattern_maker_pt46/#comment-9329</guid>
		<description>Yes, I have worked with knitwear on a few different levels. I have done patterns and spec'ing for cut &#038; sew knitwear made of sweater like fabric, interlocks, jerseys, etc. I wish I knew more about it. I fell into it out of necessity because as Kathleen hinted, there are very few qualified individuals with the necessary experience.

I also do hand knitting, mostly as a hobby. I hand knit socks too so I can comment on what would be needed in a commercial product. A regular pattern maker would not be able to draw up the specifications needed for commercial manufacturing. There is yarn type, yarn size, needle size, gauge, etc. Do you want that seam on the toe? A basic sock falls into a simple formula and the outcome is determined by the inputs.

Probably the best suggestion is to go directly to a sock manufacturer. Chances are they have technical designers and/or technicians that could whip out a sample in no time. They would most likely be able to refer suitable knitwear designers/pattern makers. I would suspect the knitwear industry is even smaller than sewn product manufacturing.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yes, I have worked with knitwear on a few different levels. I have done patterns and spec&#8217;ing for cut &#038; sew knitwear made of sweater like fabric, interlocks, jerseys, etc. I wish I knew more about it. I fell into it out of necessity because as Kathleen hinted, there are very few qualified individuals with the necessary experience.</p>
<p>I also do hand knitting, mostly as a hobby. I hand knit socks too so I can comment on what would be needed in a commercial product. A regular pattern maker would not be able to draw up the specifications needed for commercial manufacturing. There is yarn type, yarn size, needle size, gauge, etc. Do you want that seam on the toe? A basic sock falls into a simple formula and the outcome is determined by the inputs.</p>
<p>Probably the best suggestion is to go directly to a sock manufacturer. Chances are they have technical designers and/or technicians that could whip out a sample in no time. They would most likely be able to refer suitable knitwear designers/pattern makers. I would suspect the knitwear industry is even smaller than sewn product manufacturing.</p>
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