Comments on: How to hire a pattern maker pt.47

By: ANN

ANN — Wed, 11 Jan 2012 04:24:21 +0000

I went for an interview a couple of days ago at XXX. Funny thing is while the HR lady and the Director of Tech Design were telling me to have a positive attitude and get along with co-workers, they themselves could not help arguing right in front of me during the interview.

By: ANN

ANN — Tue, 10 Jan 2012 23:46:26 +0000

I am a fashion designer and also a patternmaker. I freelance my patternmaking services in NYC.
I don’t understand the diva-esque mentality with the fashion folks in NY, it is almost like working in hell. I have seen my fair share of yelling that goes on at fittings (not to me). The designers/buyers are cut of the same fabric as anyone else, most of the time I find they do not have common sense which is essential along with technical knowledge in corrections.

It is just clothes folks… get a reality check!!

By: Nelly

Nelly — Wed, 24 Aug 2011 18:42:19 +0000

I’m a freelance patternmaker located in LA. It’s hard to tried people but is our responsibility to keep our client satisfied with our work. I charge per style and the package I offer. I never charge per adjustments from first fitting. I really don’t know if is not okay but I really sure that If I want to receive my payment I need to do a good job.

By: Kathleen

Kathleen — Sat, 30 Apr 2011 16:47:13 +0000

We are trying to find any advice we can get. Being in LA we have tried employing Patternworks for pattern making services and the owner refused to sign an NDA.

I surmise the advice you seek is how to get PatternWorks to sign an NDA because advice on hiring a pattern maker generally and specifically is widespread if not redundant on this site. I can't tell you how to get PW to sign your NDA because I won't sign them either (I'm also a service provider). You can read on this site why not signing an NDA is a greater indicator of integrity than the reverse. I only speak for myself but my code of professional conduct exceeds that of an NDA so I wouldn't sign an inferior contract either. The other thing is, the increasing interest in NDAs comes from only one segment of the market, specifically those entering the business. Since the majority of our customers are long term, well established and don't need contracts to insure our discretion, we would only need to hire an IP attorney for your job. Meaning, the cost of services provided to you would be dramatically higher because IP attorneys cost $450 an hour. As a practical matter tho, we'd just turn it down because the hassle of finding and meeting with an attorney in addition to the time spent with you in negotiating the matter, would exceed any time we have available because our other customers keep us busy. The only advice I can offer is to look for another service that is aligned to that which you perceive to be your priorities and I wish you well as you move forward.

By: Trisha

Trisha — Mon, 28 Mar 2011 01:50:22 +0000

We are trying to find any advice we can get. Being in LA we have tried employing Patternworks for pattern making services and the owner refused to sign an NDA. Instead we suggested a letter of understanding. I wrote a very simple paragraph long letter stating that the products they will produce are the property of my company and they (patterworks) promises not to use the products created for our company to compete. They refused to sign that as well stating it was too “vague. “

By: Kate

Kate — Tue, 05 Aug 2008 21:19:49 +0000

I am developing a line of children’s clothing for children that are ill. As I am “just” a seamstress I am finding it difficult to explain satisfactorily what I am seeking. I have had several models sent back to me that are exactly like what I sent them. I wonder what I would get if I just drew the garment on paper. I guess I expected them to offer ideas on how to make the garment so that it would save fabric by eliminating a seam here or there. Do I need to hire someone else to fine tune my idea first? Any ideas would be greatfully appreciated. Thanks, Kate

By: Timo Rissanen

Timo Rissanen — Fri, 15 Feb 2008 05:56:04 +0000

I’m catching up; just a quick, but big, thanks for a fantastic post as well as comments!

By: Saar Machtinger

Saar Machtinger — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 06:29:27 +0000

Hi,

As I represent OptiTex I can say that we also offer some pattern making services. This is done through our HQ office.

We charge by the style, and we can also provide to you with a 3D simulation of the finsihed product. This gives you an option to view the final product before you even order the fabric or have made a muslin.

I truly think that charging by the hour is not the common thing today.

Saar

By: Tracey Valliere-Evans

Tracey Valliere-Evans — Sat, 09 Feb 2008 10:31:44 +0000

Unreal & so annoyingly sad, never mind bad-for-business. At the end of the day it is her (pattern-cutting) business, & the ball lands in her court if things have not been done right; I would walk away & use someone else, frustrating I know, but surely carrying on with this company would be business-suicide! Is her ‘35′ years of experience actually in pattern-cutting herself…or simply having a business, offering this as a service with her staff doing it?? I do think, if I were doing business with someone & they put their staff down/shouted at them/blamed them for errors, that I would be greatly put off doing any further business with them; it would be embarrassing. I wish MC much more success with her next pattern-cutter, & thanks for the tip on appearances Kathleen!

PS We have a real shortage of (good) pattern-cutters here & so sadly we have had a few experiences of patterns that don’t work but thankfully never to this cost – thanks for all your info Kathleen!

By: Colleen

Colleen — Fri, 08 Feb 2008 02:46:27 +0000

Do you have a paper trail? If a fit sample is submitted that doesn’t meet spec (within tolerance), I wouldn’t fit it (or pay for it). It’s not what you ordered!
All fit comments should be documented, any measurement changes updated on the spec and a copy given to the patternmaker. The patternmaker should make the changes you requested. She should measure the next fit sample to insure it meets spec, review it on a dress form and then, only if it’s within spec and fit/quality look good, submit to you.
When you receive the fit sample, you should measure it (compare to the patternmaker’s measurements) and evaluate the fit/quality. Begin recording fit notes with your preliminary findings. Start the fitting by calling out areas that don’t meet spec (but are within tolerance), fit/quality issues….
I’m curious, are the samples being made in production quality fabric? Are they submitting them in Black (which hides a lot of fit problems)?
Several years ago, I worked for a company that had sales exceeding a billion dollars; been in business since 1920 something. One of the Directors hired a freelance patternmaker out of N.Y. She charged $75 per fit comment and an additional $75 per sketch (no actual patterns, believe it or not). Her work was very poor quality. One of her sketches was a squiggly, hand drawn belt with 1″ added to the length. When I saw that, I had to laugh! Later, the NY based fit model said that this “patternmaker” had her assistants (FIT students)conduct the fit sessions, write the comments and draw the sketches; the patternmaker was seldom in the room! So, MC, it happens to established companies, too!
Do you have a contract with her? I recently learned from hiring an architect that, although he charges an hourly rate, once the scope of the project is agreed upon, there is a “not to exceed” price. Your patternmaker should have been able to estimate the cost of developing the five patterns and been able to give you a “not to exceed” price.
I hope my comments are helpful, not just long winded!