Comments on: Interfacing: 10 tips

By: Kathleen

Kathleen — Thu, 17 Dec 2009 22:02:24 +0000

If you have a lining back (not shell), I’d add a layer of light fusible around the back neckline and back armhole, no more than an inch (finished, nett) wide.

By: Amy

Amy — Thu, 17 Dec 2009 17:53:49 +0000

Here I am years after this post with a question. Regarding the perseveration around interfacing, I have never understood interfacing and I’m guessing one of the reasons sewers get so overwhelmed with it is because there are so many options–I mean, just one sewing supply site I looked at last night had over 20 different types of fusible interfacing so now of course we need some teachers to help us navigate the maze. It definitely didn’t used to be that way when I first started sewing–there were 2 different kinds at the local store. It stunk but that’s what you used.

Anyhow, my question–I’m working on a vintage 1948 men’s vest pattern, fixing up some of the pattern pieces (especially the facing and lining, as per your book). It calls for interfacing in the facing piece and on the buttonhole areas only and something in me says that’s not enough, especially since the goal is a structured, not loose, vest. I’ll go ahead and interface the entire front but I’m curious about the back. Since the back is a looser lining fabric than the front, would one fuse the back piece, and/or the back lining piece, or just the hem/armhole/neck only?

By: mary

mary — Sun, 24 Aug 2008 10:22:54 +0000

another home sewer checking in who had no clue … thanks for some great information.

By: Nancy K

Nancy K — Sun, 25 Nov 2007 15:03:55 +0000

I read the comments on PR about this posting and came back to read it. Glad I did. I do some of what you suggest, but not all. So my next jacket, it is my next sewing project, will be interfaced a little bit more. I am also sewing a leather
jacket and wondered what interfacing you
recommend for leather.

By: Todd Hudson

Todd Hudson — Fri, 03 Aug 2007 19:36:52 +0000

When is it appropriate to block fuse then recut as opposed to cutting the interfacing from a smaller pattern and then fusing it it to the cut piece? Is it related to the size of the piece? I’m working with fabric and no die cutting available.
Thank you.

By: Kira

Kira — Wed, 23 May 2007 19:31:53 +0000

I knew I was right to “start at the beginning.”

How silly to assume that the information in the instruction sheet is accurate. How disappointing to realize that we “home-sewers” don’t know the right questions to ask.

Thank you.

By: Fashion-Incubator

Fashion-Incubator — Wed, 16 Nov 2005 20:32:28 +0000

A question of collars

I found this question on a message board and asked its author for permission to reprint it here. Z wishes to remain anonymous. As you read the question, you should know this question’s author was using a pattern that was…

By: Gigi

Gigi — Wed, 17 Aug 2005 02:30:49 +0000

Ana, if you’re just buying the occasional bolt for personal use then the 40% or 50% off coupons from JoAnn’s can’t be beat. You’ll have to sign up for the mailing list. It also pays to sign up to the JoAnn.com online mailing list as they often email 50% off in-store coupons. They nearly always have some unopened bolts of fusible tricot in their stores – ask at the cutting counter. I never buy less than a whole bolt of anything because it’s so much more economical that way – not to mention very handy to have around when you’re sewing in the wee hours.

By: Carol

Carol — Tue, 16 Aug 2005 20:16:05 +0000

Fusible interfacing is inappropriate for couture work. For everything else, and I mean everything, fusibles properly applied (I have an Elna press) will readily stand up to the years of the ordinary washing they’ll get.
Early fusibles got to the home market before they should have. Now most are of excellent quality. If a fusible changes the hand of the fabric for the worse, it’s an inappropriate weight or type. I use mostly fusible tricot, with weft-stabilized in second place, and keep four or five less commonly used others on hand. There is a lovely (though expensive) Japanese silk-weight fusible that can be used for the airiest silk blouses with virtually no hint of its presence, other than that the buttons haven’t pulled their holes out of shape.
Pretreating everything for “home” sewing for myself and clients (shell fabric, lining, interfacing – and tapes and zippers while you’re at it) eliminates the bubbling associated with bad fusing. Proper stabilization as Kathleen has just itemized for us, eliminates pulls.
I agree that we are encouraged to overclean garments, washing or dry cleaning (ick) them when a good brushing and airing would suffice.

By: Ana Koval

Ana Koval — Tue, 16 Aug 2005 16:44:53 +0000

I use fusible tricot interfacing all the time. Do you have an economical source where I can buy it by the bolt?