Another option is to add the additional bit of fusible to the fold line and adjust the hem (either longer or shorter) to hit the mid point of the added fusible. If you will be making the jacket slightly shorter, be sure to make the fusible a bit wider so you still have .5″ on the body side of the fold line.

Regarding interfacing hems: I have a jacket shell very nearly complete on which I interfaced the hems up to the fold line only — I should have thought better while I was doing it, but I just didn’t. I really don’t like how it feels to turn up the hems with interfacing at the fold. I am considering applying a narrow strip of interfacing that would cover the fold extending some 1/2 ” beyond on each side; I am just concerned about the area which will end up with double layer of the interfacing. What would be your advice?

most of the pattern books get the interfacing of hems wrong. Either they show the interfacing ending right on the fold line (!) or they don’t interface the hem at all. Listen up folks, the inside hem of a jacket needs fusible. That hem will get a lot more wear because it’s rubbing against the body all day long. It needs to be fused.

In my experience I’ve found that the leather seams look sturdier when they’re fused. Also, when it’s embroidered, fused interfacing + sew-in gives a much cleaner finish than one or the other or nothing. I’ve got a good sense now – thanks for that!

Regarding the type of fusing, my manufacturers supply their own fusing as part of their service. I’ve looked into sourcing leather specific fusing from Freudenberg but they won’t bring it into SA unless you order 6000m2. 6000!

Also I’ve got a pair of washable suede pants which used a sew-in interfacing as opposed to a fusible but it’s not a great finish.

Second, she isn’t necessarily wrong. Leathers and their finishes can vary just as much as fabrics do. It depends on the look, hand, feel, texture, weight etc. It could also be the way she’s applying fusible. Maybe she’s fusing it the way they do in home sewing, that can dry the oils out of it for sure. She may also be using the wrong stuff. Who can say?

You don’t *need* to fuse leather anymore than you *need* to fuse fabrics. You can tell if it’s done properly because you can’t tell it’s been fused, it should be seamless. However, it should not look like it wasn’t stabilized and that’s more often true of fabrics and leathers alike. Here is a lambskin shopping bag I made that was fused. It’s very soft and pliable, a 2 oz grain. There’s no way this thing would stand up to what I put it through without it.

The only thing that will go wrong is that it will be more trouble to sew, it won’t feed as evenly or neatly. The points of greatest stress will wear out or become misshapen faster. The same things that happen with fabric.

Regards,
Amanda
(Mano & Milo)