Comments on: Made to measure manufacturing

By: J C Sprowls

J C Sprowls — Thu, 08 Nov 2007 19:04:20 +0000

Tonya said: I also think that men’s expectations of fit are a lot less nitpicky than most women.

Au contraire! Men are peacocks.

Believe me, I’ve thought about how to bring MTM and MTO to market, a lot. I think it’s possible. But, the initial investment is high and there are risks that need to be mitgated/managed.

The only way I see this fleshing out is to invest in a single-ply cutting system and a broad library of blocks whose style numbers are based on a SKU-like system. This ensures fast and accurate cutting without requiring too many skilled people.

I also foresee flaws in the various systems out there, today. I think everyone playing in the MTM/MTO market is trying to find workarounds. Coppley’s looks like one of the more sound approaches. My issue with most MTM programs is they insist the Consumer (or, worse – an unskilled Salesperson) take measurements. Frankly, I didn’t *understand* measurements until I started drafting patterns – that’s the flaw I need to see addressed.

As a business, I don’t want to assume the risk for a Consumer making a measurement error, resulting in a poorly-fitted garment. I’ve been there a dozen times during the early stages of my career thinking I could draft anything to spec. Truly, I can – if the specs aren’t full of lies.

The 2nd flaw is “how do I validate the specs are within tolerable ranges *and* achieve the fit I need?” For example: a client once insisted he had a 15″ drop (diff between chest circ and waist circ). I drafted a 9″ drop on his pattern because I thought 15″ was too severe. It ended up the best fit for him was a standard 6″ drop. The 15″ difference was an invention in his own mind. Is it appropriate to enforce a rule to never cut beyond a 6″ drop? Experience with past clients tells me that is not necessarily the right thing to do. Is the business rule to then tell them MTM is not the way to go and see a tailor in-person? When do I make time for personal fittings when I’m saddled with production?

The thing about tailored clothing is: if the fit is off (even during a baste/forward fitting), the assumption is the craftsmanship is also off. While I – moreso than most tailors – embrace and use technology and equipment, there’s a part of me that clings to certain processes because they keep holding true.

By: Vivre Boutique

Vivre Boutique — Thu, 08 Nov 2007 16:21:13 +0000

I own a womens boutique in Canada and this is a concept that I have currently introduced into my own store. After years of working in the boutique, I have come to realise that selling and buying suits for women is tricky. Tiny waist -big hips, petite, tall, plus size – you get it. In my store, I take thorough measurements (for cashmere coats, suits, pants suits, skirt suits) go through an extensive fabric swatch collection with my clients. Send them out to be made and my customers are thrilled. In our case, the wait time is a few eeks, but most don’t mind waiting. It fits perfectly. Prices range as you correctly say -$900-a few thousand.
Keep up the good work. I simply cannot beleive how much work and research you put into what you do. Everytime I think you cannot surprise me, you do. Well done.

By: Tonya

Tonya — Thu, 08 Nov 2007 15:16:22 +0000

This is exactly what I would like to do for my plus size line. I visited their site and they only do men which I would guess is a strategic decision. I would think that the critical fit points for a man’s suit are fewer than for a woman’s. I also think that men’s expectations of fit are a lot less nitpicky than most women.

By: Lisa NYC

Lisa NYC — Thu, 08 Nov 2007 10:07:03 +0000

What an interesting business model. thanks for sharing!

By: J C Sprowls

J C Sprowls — Thu, 08 Nov 2007 00:58:36 +0000

Another company I’m keeping my eye on is Astor & Black. They have “upped” the game re: made-to-measure and custom-made manufacturing. What’s astonishing to me are their package prices and turn-around times.

I’m seriously considering buying a package from them so I can understand how well they train their sales staff.

By: kay

kay — Wed, 07 Nov 2007 22:46:16 +0000

Because I really don’t want to make DH another suit (and he’s hard to fit), I called the closest retailer to see what the prices and procedures look like from their end. They have sample books of fabrics and style guides, and the suit comes back, they say, in 4-6 weeks. Prices quoted were from about $995-$4K US, depending on fabric. Not bad for close to custom tailoring.