Comments on: More cutting and grading questions

By: Big Irv

Big Irv — Fri, 20 Jan 2006 18:14:39 +0000

Alison,
We charge the client for our patternmaking services. It is done on a per item basis. The client will provide specs, drawings, or a existing reference sample. Any revisions to the pattern by the client, are considered a change, and we sometimes need to surcharge. Some of our clients are full package customers.They just want to buy a finished product, and don’t want to hear about anything but the final unit cost. We blend everything, including our profit into that price.
Big Irv

By: Alison

Alison — Fri, 20 Jan 2006 15:14:30 +0000

Big Irv,

Do you get to charge for your patternmaking services? Or do you just eat the costs as the price of retaining the customer?

By: Big Irv

Big Irv — Fri, 20 Jan 2006 15:07:43 +0000

Carol,
It is so much easier just to remake a pattern, rather than adjust it. Often, companies get samples made in their area, send the pattern for bulk production to us, and expect us to make all sorts of adjustments to the existing pattern. Many times the pattern maker is not told what type of fabric is to be used for the style, and we need to redo it.
Just last week I received patterns for activewear that will be made using Nylon/Spandex, but the patternmaker cranked out patterns assuming 7-10% shrinkage for cotton fabric. Literally, back to the drawing board.
As for questions that we think are dumb, we should be so lucky to have this resource available to set us all straight. As Carol says, better to ask. You look better in the long run in the eyes of many people.
Big Irv

By: Carol Kimball

Carol Kimball — Fri, 20 Jan 2006 04:43:32 +0000

And the only stupid questions are the unasked ones that a person is too arrogant/dumb to realize they need to know.

By: Josh

Josh — Fri, 20 Jan 2006 02:30:33 +0000

Wow! And I thought I had some weird questions. And I really have no room to talk but No. 3 takes the cake. I guess when you don’t know you really don’t know.

By: Carol Kimball

Carol Kimball — Fri, 20 Jan 2006 02:10:35 +0000

Big Irv:
“We also like patterns made the old fashioned way. Weekly, we have to remake patterns rather than adjust other people’s shoddy work.”

You mean that on a weekly basis shoddy work comes in that has to be redone in your preferred old-fashioned format? Not that all your patterns need to be remade weekly…

By: Big Irv

Big Irv — Thu, 19 Jan 2006 20:56:44 +0000

1. Some people have told me that the “serious” contractors have computer-guided cutters — if my contractor cuts with a paper marker by hand, is that a bad sign?
Now that is pretty funny. As a contractor, if you are doing the same thing , day in, day out, it may make sense to install a computerized cutter. I would consider our factories pretty “serious”, and we could never work with an automated cutting method. We simply cut too wide a variety of fabrics on a daily basis to justify this kind of set up. A “serious” cutter can also give you a better yield than the a computerized marker too.
I know of many factories that got “conned” into buying these CAD cutting systems, only to get frustrated and return to a manual method.
We also like patterns made the old fashioned way. Weekly , we have to remake patterns rather than adjust other people’s shoddy work.
Big Irv