Rene

How would you recommend pricing that way?
It’s like anything, it’s only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. That said, it’d sell for less than if you had a paper pattern to go with it. My book (more below) explains your responsibilities and the expectations of industry.

Everything I make is made from draping. Would you recommend drafting a paper pattern from my prototype? What is the greatest reason for that?
You’ll get a better return for a pattern. With a pattern, the design can be “proven”. A one-off drape may be lovely but not manufacturable. Ideally, you’d make a sample from the rendered pattern as a proof.

My current job is apprenticing for a luthiar, so I have a good sense of how to draft a pattern from prototypes. I have sewing experience and a growing knowledge of fabric.

~gentle chuckle~ I have vast experience (beyond apprenticeship) in making patterns but I’d never imagine I could do the work of a luthier, much less have the skills to design something appropriate for a guitar manufacturing environment . Even highly skilled one-off custom clothiers don’t have the skill set to produce patterns for apparel manufacturing. These can be acquired tho. Since you have the interest, consider getting a pattern making book to explore the option (don’t buy something cheap, get a trade title). Similarly, if you plan to design for manufacture (and you are if you’re wanting to sell the drapes and designs), I’d recommend buying my book which is an orientation to the industry, explaining all that is expected of you as well as standard practices common to the industry. The book is available in the upper left side bar.

I prefer to work as a freelance artist.
Pattern makers are more akin to engineers than artists

My current job is apprenticing for a luthiar, so I have a good sense of how to draft a pattern from prototypes. Although I have been working with wood and metal I have sewing experience and a growing knowledge of fabric. I prefer to work as a freelance artist. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am in the dark with the terminology but I learn quickly.

At first blush, I would say: “as long as it takes”. But, there is a practical business aspect to managing your R&D, too. I believe your risk tolerance is based on the anticipated return on the investment.

Start with the end in mind… Let’s say the target is 1,000 pieces at $70 wholesale (i.e. gross sales = $70,000). The cost to cut & sew 1,000 pieces is, say: $17,500. Inputs and materials cost: $30,000. Your realized cashflow would be appx: $22,500 (if everyone pays on time – I recommend you reduce this number by at least 30% to give yourself cushion for slow pays).

Somewhere between $0 and $22,500 is where your R&D + overhead + salaries + reserves need to cost. Based on these numbers, I would say the inital R&D budget (i.e. sourcing, style development, pattern development, and protypes) should probably be capped at $5,000 – both sweat equity and hard cash. If you pay yourself $25/hr (and exercise the law of thirds), that equates to less than 65 hours of your time divided among: sourcing, designing, patternmaking, and sample making activities.

In my opinion, if the pattern making aspect looks like it would take more than 12-15 hours, I would say the design wasn’t efficient enough to support this sales target. If the design can be engineered in such a way to reduce the cut & sew costs, material utilization or costs, or the operational overhead, it might have a chance. Otherwise, I would set that sketch aside and pull down another one and perform the same top-down estimate.

The most successful business people recognize potential when they see it. And, frankly, potential is abundant. Developing the fine skill of discernment (i.e. determining what, how much, and when to invest) requires patience, time, and practice.

Jinjer, do you get your silk crepes from places where you can get a break buying in bulk? I know the idea of buying silk crepe in “bulk” is a little cringe-making, but places such as Dharma Trading, Thai Silks, Exotic Silks, etc. might be a good place to start, if you don’t buy from them already. A plain and/or undyed silk crepe might not behave exactly like a printed silk crepe, but it will be closer than a rayon challis.