Nameless tutorial #4
The biggest problem with applying this in a commercial setting is habit. It is habit that once one starts to sew a seam, one doesn’t stop sewing the given seam until it is completed. There’s not a stitcher on the planet who enjoys stopping and starting with the necessity of having to pick it up later. One’s natural inclination is to finish the thing off. The illustration below is a good example.
It’s only natural that one would sew the entire facing and front lining seam in one fell swoop but finishing the corner correctly requires that the hem is first sewn to the bottom of the lining. Similarly, all of the apparel management books out there will tell you that a seam is sewn most efficiently provided it can be done in one pass. Therefore, supervisors are loathe to direct stitchers to start and stop too. I suppose one could direct stitchers to sew the lining and hems together first but it would become consequently more complicated to join side seams. Therefore, like it or not, when bagging a suit or sportcoat, the sewing order is as follows (only pertinent bagging directions are included):
1. The front lining and the facing are joined, stopping about 3 to 4 inches above the end of the piece (see the photo above). It would be an excellent idea to place a notch to indicate the stopping point.
2. Proceed with all of the myriad of construction -there’s lots of steps in here- until you’re ready to bag it. By the time you’re ready for the last portion, your jacket should resemble the sketch below.
3. Sew the linings to the hems (as illustrated in tutorial 2).
4. Finish the last 3″ to 4″ of facing and lining seam last (also shown in tutorial 2).
Sewing the back vent of suits
For those of you who are bagging a vented jacket; it would be logical to complete the vent in precisely the same way that you finished the facings. You should use the specifications from tutorial 3 to design the back vent. My preference for the vent overlap and the vent fold-back is a finished width of 2″. For the purposes of reinforcement, I reiterate the sewing operations as follows:
Sew the lining to the hem (below)
Sew the bottom of the vent closed (below)
Unlike the facing, you can sew off the entire vent in one pass without starting and stopping since this is the last portion of bagging the jacket (other than tacking). Stitch the shell and linings together as shown. Other than the sketch below, you can also see the photos in the second tutorial.
If this tutorial has been helpful, I appreciate donations. These hand-drawn sketches take hours. I am becoming increasingly disheartened and depressed that -judging from the dearth of donations- my tutorials would seem to be of no value. At the very least, please consider placing a link to my site on yours and tell your friends about it. Thanks.
Name this tutorial
Nameless tutorial #2
Nameless tutorial #3
Nameless tutorial #4
Nameless #5 (back vent)
Nameless #6 -Troubleshooting
Nameless Tutorial #7
Nameless Tutorial #8
Nameless Tutorial #9