Comments on: New: Knit wear pattern making book

By: Kathleen

Kathleen — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 21:25:52 +0000

Hi Ray. Yes, this will only work on a straight sleeve, that was the example shown. Two piece sleeves as for suits, are another matter and were not shown (other than that after the 70’s, suits weren’t made of knits). Even so, I draft those as in example 3; the hem edge is sewn to a lining and not the shell in addition to the ID vs OD constraints. Method 2 is the way I learned it too; it is the most common instruction in pattern books. On the job, I learned another way that has held up year after year.

The 2nd illustration is right because even if after folding at hem the fabric becomes larger, it will be chopped off during side seam.

The process you’re describing requires that the hem is sewn before the side seam. I know this process has become more common than ever but it is not the dominant method (except in commodities) or even arguably the best one given the focus of this site (non-commodities). Iow, I know people do that but it’s not something I encourage.

By: S. S. Ray

S. S. Ray — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 15:17:31 +0000

I think the 2nd illustration is just fine. The 3rd one (which is shown as right here) will work only in case of a straight sleeve. When the difference between the sleeve width and aleeve hem is large then it will give the same result as illustrated in illustration 1.
The 2nd illustration is right because even if after folding at hem the fabric becomes larger, it will be chopped off during side seam.

By: Stuart Anderson

Stuart Anderson — Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:43:11 +0000

Thanks for the link to the book. As a stretch fit patternmaker myself I’m really keen to see how someone else interprets this art!!

By: Kai Jones

Kai Jones — Fri, 14 Mar 2008 19:28:19 +0000

Hobby knitters mostly know about using “darts” to add bust shaping (although we don’t call them darts, and they come at the problem from the opposite direction by *adding* knitted rows of fabric rather than cutting out), and there are plenty of resources online and in books to learn how to use them and grade them up to your cup size. In fact some patterns for larger women include the graded bust adjustments for up through DDD cup.

By: Zaz

Zaz — Fri, 14 Mar 2008 16:38:45 +0000

hi kai jones, although you say the content of the link is not much a point in there stiked me: “full bust circumference (assuming that the body shape reflected in these measurements has a B cup)” so this goes in the direction of why undercup and “overcup” AND bust circumference are important but again, they are important for custom made knits, right? if one is working with industrial knits they’d want to size for size B cups and well, those not fitting in that category just have to do with the items or not buy them…
kathleen, i remember once you told me you alas did not know much about knits. i was looking for a book like the first one you mention under these words: “the latest and greatest in books and directories” and i one time i was thinking there just MUST be one in french…
i am french and live in france…
well anyway… if someone hears of one for the french market please let me know…

thanks again for a great post and i will be checking your blogs if your IDs are active OXOX

By: Barb

Barb — Fri, 14 Mar 2008 00:38:29 +0000

I don’t know why you would get the argument about the inner and outer diameters – get any sceptics to measure a coffee cup circumference inside and out then they’ll see it’s different! Could do it with masking tape quite easily.

Cheers,

By: Kai Jones

Kai Jones — Thu, 13 Mar 2008 21:38:52 +0000

The following link is an article on pattern grading for the hobby-knitting-market pattern writer. http://knitty.com/ISSUEspring08/FEATspr08TBP.html

By: keith Richardson

keith Richardson — Thu, 13 Mar 2008 04:22:38 +0000

Thanks for the great review, yes there are some typo errors, which will be corrected with the next edition (a few years off), my first text-book.
Thanks, and I hope it helps
Keith Richardson

By: Babette

Babette — Thu, 13 Mar 2008 03:26:57 +0000

To all the patternmaking teachers of the world – you trained us to make our facings a squidge smaller so that they would sit under, why not hems?

This is so logical, practical and from miserable experience, clear, that I can’t help but wonder why it isn’t in every 101 on patternmaking.

By: Gigi

Gigi — Wed, 12 Mar 2008 20:53:11 +0000

I’m doing a happy dance! I’m so glad you posted this – my copy is on it’s way to me!