Comments on: On drafting and European Cut

By: Sewer

Sewer — Sun, 07 Aug 2011 12:38:47 +0000

The first couple of patterns I’ve made have required a lot of adjustments. I’d like to make a sloper to superimpose over purchased patterns as a guide to adapting them. I also want to develop styles from the slopers. There are always adjustments.

Based on this recommendation, I’ve borrowed the book.

By: christina

christina — Tue, 27 Mar 2007 19:21:17 +0000

Thanks J C Sprowls! I hadn’t bothered to actually make a muslin because the sloper looked so bizarre. So maybe I’ll do as you suggest and try a fitting.
I’ll check out Aldrich’s book.

By: J C Sprowls

J C Sprowls — Sat, 24 Mar 2007 17:38:50 +0000

Christina,

Your observation is correct. His shoulders are sloped – at least, according to this system. This should mete itself out during the fitting, though. You can make corrections to the pattern based on the results you achieve from fitting.

Try Aldrich’s book on menswear, too. It’s may be available at your library or inter-library loan.

By: christina

christina — Sat, 24 Mar 2007 14:31:34 +0000

I went through this book, following the steps to the letter. I was excited about her promise of better fitting armholes — mine and my husband’s had always kind of gaped, as she described.

So anyway, I took my husband’s measurements, and assumed that the steps would work for him as well as for a flat-chested woman. Well, sadly, this wasn’t the case. After measuring and re-measuring my husband (he’s a very patient man) it was impossible to draft the front bodice. Specifically, the line that extended from the side waist to the bottom armhole extended past the actual bottom armhole measurement. I think this happened because my husband has sloping shoulders. It’s still very possible that I simply took the wrong measurements, but then again, I took the measurements twice, using Allemong’s own methods. So now I’m thinking maybe the instructions simply don’t work for men, or else I am totally inept at measuring.

By: J C Sprowls

J C Sprowls — Mon, 16 Oct 2006 16:28:56 +0000

Mokie,

The Allemong book does not address menswear patterns, specifically. Though, a majority of the measurement and drafting system are similar to what tailors use and will translate to the male form.

Ms Allemong has done a great job laying out this subject. I look forward to others in the series.

By: Mokie

Mokie — Mon, 16 Oct 2006 13:25:58 +0000

Hi, I was wondering if this book by Elizabeth Allemong has some tips on drafting men’s wear pattern. The book sounds very good n it will be a major plus point if it includes men’s pattern as well. Thanks.

By: MaryBeth

MaryBeth — Sun, 05 Mar 2006 18:34:04 +0000

Kathleen, thanks for your take on this book. I wish I had a nickle for each time over the past 2 years the thought occurred to me: making this moulange would save me time in the long run!

I also look forward to your review of Connie Crawford’s book. Which one do you have? I own all her books. I admire her work and her approach to sewing either for the home sewist or the fashion student. The proof of her technique is in the fit, the way the garments transform the wearer. Lovely!

By: Tracy

Tracy — Sun, 05 Mar 2006 16:06:52 +0000

I have purchased European Cut ($28). I got it from Elizabeth Allemong’s Vestis books which is her own book publishing company. I read about the book on the Designer 2 yahoo group which is made up of people who own the D2 Husqvarna machine. The book does not mention mens wear at all to answer Jess’s question. It is a very simple look at drafting the bodice and sleeve without a nod to collars, pockets or much line manipulation. The best part is the measuring section which really goes into a lot of detail. Don’t look to this book as a drafting or sewing guide like Armstrong or other text books.
I look forward to Elizabeth coming out with more in-depth studies in the future, but for now I recommend a pass unless you could use a little more depth in your measurement section books or like me, just like to look at slopers!
I agree with Kathleen that doing Moulage is tedious, and starting from another pattern is easier, if I like the author could make a custom sloper in 10 minutes as she says in the book, I think I would do it for custom garments!

By: Karen

Karen — Sat, 04 Mar 2006 03:05:55 +0000

I guess being basically lazy isn’t all bad–I haven’t made a fitting shell yet.
OTOH, I’m planning to do the Duck tape fanny mold this weekend with my daughter–who’s thin and tall for her girth and we have the worst time finding pants that will stay up. (Those shrinking-after-washing waistbands you talked about are never a problem for her. Just don’t ask about the width at the above-knee zone!)
If my older daughter gives a hint of interest, I’ll give her your book–she’s majoring in advertising at Texas, and after reading your critique of the wannabe-designer game show, I’m beginning to wonder if the School of Natural Sciences did her a favor by making it impossible for her to go for Textile Science. (They suddenly discovered a crying need for a textile sciences major to take the pre-med biology course. Yeah, right.) I’m waiting to see if she wants it because it can be so overpowering when your mommy gives you 10K things about something that you’re not sure you want to mess with any more.
But, anyway, thank you so much for putting up your site. I may be just pond scum (home sewer) but I try to learn whatever I can, wherever I can. Thank you especially for talking about jigs/templates–if standard components is good for French cooking (bouquet garni and mirepoix, anyone?) it certainly ought to be good for clothes making.

By: Ray

Ray — Sat, 04 Mar 2006 02:32:57 +0000

I bought this for my wife. She stopped sewing about twenty years ago because nothing fit. She swears she’ll use this “when time allows”….and I’m pushing hard. I’ll even help measure! Am I a nice guy or what? (Wish there was something to report other than it’s sitting on a shelf.)