Comments on: Outsourcing production: Birnbaum

By: The Impending Crisis

The Impending Crisis — Sat, 14 Jan 2012 18:24:16 +0000

[...] has a new book coming out. If you read my review of his first book you can imagine I’m pretty pleased about this. His first book (Birnbaums Global Guide To [...]

By: Kiran Bindra

Kiran Bindra — Thu, 27 Sep 2007 17:35:03 +0000

We have a company where we do design and manufacturing of collections for private labels and individual designers. My business partner and I read Birnbaum’s book about 4 years ago as we were struggling with overseas development in Hong Kong and India. Having spent months overseas training the staff at our manufacturing partners’ facilities, and still facing quality, design and delivery issues for our clients – we decided to shift gears and find solution domestically.

The financial models discussed in the book are very much in line with the true cost analysis in production. We applied the same model to our clients’ business models and the results were astounding! Just as Birnbaum describes, the true cost is very close if not cheaper in doing production domestically vs. overseas (with certain high volume and delivery schedule exceptions).

Then we faced the problem of finding a one-stop-shop for apparel production in the US. Instead of getting discouraged, we launched our own operation in Dallas, TX. It has been truly rewarding to have customers approach us and create true ‘Made In USA’ collections!

By: Lisa Bloodgood

Lisa Bloodgood — Wed, 26 Sep 2007 02:24:53 +0000

Doesn’t this go with the chapter/section(s) in Kathleen’s book about quality?

I didn’t know stuff as high end as Armani was actually so poorly made. That’s too bad because sometimes the designer stuff has the best looking/feeling and most interesting fabric.

By: Leah Barrett

Leah Barrett — Tue, 25 Sep 2007 17:49:08 +0000

I worked for 6 yrs in India and 3 in HongKong with exporters and buying offices, for high end designers and mass producers. Then 3 yrs with Canadian design houses. I was struck by how true the observations of “quality” standards were, in India and Hongkong we could have simply not got away with any inconsistencies in the product we shipped, and faced severe financial risk from taking any chances.
Working on my own design label now I feel like I have come full circle.. I have to face the challenges that Designers face when dealing with overseas contractors. And, I am surprised and relieved when my retail clients accept the variances in colour, measurement etc when brought to their attention before shipping.
My 2 cents..Just like a business has to be “export ready” (well established local sales), it must also be import ready (well established production process) before sourcing from overseas.
I found the best way for me, at my current stage, is to source components and finish product here, so I’m able to modify any disasters if necessary. The components (fabric, trim) are the main cost so I’m still getting some of the price advantages of working overseas.
And, use the experience of immigrants who have worked as sample makers, export merchandisers, production managers on both sides if you can.

By: timo

timo — Tue, 25 Sep 2007 03:11:53 +0000

It’s interesting that quality level is equated with uniformity of end result (regarding the Armani example). I don’t know if I’m the only one who delights in the slight variations one comes across even in mass-produced clothing; it’s a subtle reminder that most clothes are still put together by a person (operating a machine) somewhere. Workmanship of risk, I believe, is what David Pye called it all those years ago.

As for fictitious labelling, it’s not a problem limited to China. I can’t speak for the US, but in Australia I’ve seen all manner of tales on labels. In my first job many years ago I had to unpick the ‘Made in China’ labels from box-fulls of ‘cashmere’ jumpers that had just arrived, and replace them with ‘Made in Australia’. The designer’s argument was that because the jumpers were overdyed here, they qualified for the latter label. I’ve also seen stretch denim with ‘100% cotton’ labels, suiting with a Lurex stripe with ‘100% pure new wool’ (imagine the sheep!) and so it goes.

Thanks, Kathleen, for the excellent site!

By: elizabeth

elizabeth — Mon, 24 Sep 2007 21:02:06 +0000

Really good book to read- I read it way back, before I found THE BOOK .

By: Carmel Dolcine

Carmel Dolcine — Mon, 24 Sep 2007 19:58:15 +0000

I was once an advocate of overseas outsourcing, but I’ve seen firsthand how difficult and incredibly complicated it can be.

For software engineering or tech consulting, overseas outsourcing may work reasonably well. I know of a number of engineers who often use programmers in India and Malaysia without incident.

However, nealry all of my fashion designer friends (20+ former and current schoolmates) have had one problem or another outsourcing production.

I think the real problem is that prior to the industrial revolution, the artisan was both designer and manufacturer. Kind of like how design-build architects are responsible for managing and performing the tasks of design and construction of buildings.

I think many designers could eventually improve their operations qualitatively by returning in some way, shape, or form to the artisan model and promote more in-house production. Or at the very least, designers may seek out local artisans and manufacturers with shared values to improve their control over the production process.