Pattern Puzzle: mystery draft pt.2
The mystery draft is a HAT! Congratulations to Grace, Samantha and Colleen who guessed yesterday’s Pattern Puzzle was a hat. Brian, Liz and Naomi came close suspecting a hat or related headgear with a visor.
Here’s the back story (previously mentioned in the forum); this scan came from a Russian hat drafting book I acquired from a student (I will call her “Tony”) who took my production pattern class last week end. Tony works as a designer in the film industry in Los Angeles (a whole other subject; the job is less glamorous, more thankless and worse paying than you’d imagine). Since she speaks Russian fluently, she has a lot of Russian pattern books. Knowing I was obsessed about them, she brought ten of them, six of which I bought from her because it is almost impossible to order Russian books unless you speak the language. Compounding matters, the site that sells them in the US is Russian language only and has awful search capabilities. If anyone is interested in buying their own copy of the books I have, I will update the forum thread with links to purchase as I am able to confirm them. It’s like flying blind since the character set is so different from English.
Then consider the matter of the shape of the top of the skull (below):
Then there is overall head and face shape which affects hat design (below):
Last but not least is the slope of one’s profile (below):
Part of my interest in posting these images (there are more to come below this discussion) was to see how many people’s brains work like mine. In the forum, Stuart spoke to that directly by saying these drafts looked “sooooo much like sheet metal (pattern) development, or general CAD projection work” and that they should because they’re “solving the same problem”. These drafts (see below) illustrate exactly how I see patterns in my head. Perhaps now people can understand why patterns for clothing and patterns for sheet metal are more similar than generally accepted [and why I've been collecting sheet metal drafting books for years (Teijo sent me another vintage sheet metal book recently, thank you doll!)]. This illustrates why well engineered patterns can be precisely matched as sheet metal must be with no overages such as ease (also pt.2) except where it’s truly called for (most are not) and still other examples could be considered akin to misguided professional practices. In my opinion of course.
In short, the drafts in this book and the other Russian books are a tremendous source of validation for me. You don’t know how delighted I was to see (for example) the brim pattern trimmed off along the side of the head (red line) in the sample puzzle draft. I did not have the words to articulate why it must be so only that it is unerringly true.
At $45, the hat book was the most expensive of all the books. Even though the copy only runs 107 pages and the paper quality is poor (ghosting from opposing pages), I think it is well worth the money. In fact, Tony and I discussed approaching the publisher to have them translated in English. The other books I bought from Tony cost significantly less, on the order of $15 to $25 each. A few of them were basic text books; the drafts weren’t particularly remarkable but the illustrated style lines were sufficiently charming to merit their purchase. Can’t speak for you but I buy vintage books mostly for that reason (Erwin, Hillhouse & Mansfield etc).
Okay, lengthy introduction dispensed with, here are other random selections from this hat book. Enjoy!