Pattern Puzzle: Neckline dart-collar pt.2

Posted by Kathleen Fasanella on Nov 8, 2010 at 3:01 pm / Pattern Puzzle / Trackback

collar_dart_miniIf anyone was as infatuated by the collar-dart I mentioned previously, here’s an update. First though, Lena was sufficiently adventuresome to post her idea of what the pattern looked like. I was thinking along the same lines. Several contributors mentioned a related style designed by Miyake but I wasn’t as enamored of it because the neckline fold was loose and unformed. It was also a knit. But not to be nit picky, I agree it was another expression of the same concept. Anyway, I had to put it to the test.

I started with a drape -which should make some of you happy- because I wasn’t sure what would happen with that dart as it traveled around the back neck. Unfortunately, it wanted to come to a point at the back neck (below left). The only way I could get it to round was to place darts on the inner neckline (below right).

pointed_backneckline

To get the outside to lie smoothly, there needs to be a seam joining inner and outer collar-dart (rolled to the inside rather than the top edge). My photo shows wads of fabric folded and pinned into place. I have the seam rolled to the inside of the back neck where it is less likely to be seen. So much neater and cleaner that way.

If you want to test this yourself, I digitized it into a test pattern (pdf). By no means is this anything but a rough cut to illustrate the concept. The file prints onto 4 sheets of paper. When I tested the print out, it didn’t reproduce at 100% but it’s close enough. The version I gave you has the three darts at the back neck and looks like this but you could just as easily pivot those darts out and end up with a pattern that looks like this.

darts_pivoted_closed

This is how I would make it.

So if anyone is interested in a bit of experimentation, play with this and report your results. Again, this is not a final version so I’m certainly not suggesting anyone could run straight through to production with this. Actually, I wouldn’t even say it’s ready for prototyping. Have fun.

2 Responses to “Pattern Puzzle: Neckline dart-collar pt.2”

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ken simmons
November 9th, 2010
11:33 AM

I have a 1952 Vogue pattern with this neckline/collar detail. The back inner and outer collar float and are not stitched to the back neckline. There is a dart in the under collar to help the curving by making the under collar smaller than the upper collar. Also the dart intake that produces the collar hieght goes more to the center of the shoulder line and not touching the neckline as shown in your graphic. That keeps the collar out away from the neck therefor allowing it to be a bit higher than a close to the neck collar would have to be.

Renee
November 9th, 2010
12:53 PM

Nice job Kathleen! You know I am obsessed with this collar too. Thank you for taking the time to work on it – much appreciated!

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