Comments on: Pattern makers know best

By: Laura

Laura — Tue, 01 Dec 2009 12:44:04 +0000

There is really no reason to demonize CAD systems. The problem comes from most peoples assumptions that the the computer “makes” the pattern. As a patternmaker coming up in the early 90’s I was trained to make patterns on a Gerber. It is my pencil, my ruler and my curve stick. My patterns do not fit worse because they were created on a CAD, they still reqire 1 to 2 prototypes before approval – just like patterns created on the table. It’s just a more efficient way to store and revise patterns, that is if you are properly trained. I have know many hand pattern makers who had difficulty making the transistion, and as I too find it more difficult to adjust to new software releases etc. So I think it’s all in what you learn on.
A last note. I have a digitizer, but I oly use it when I have a request to copy a garment. I rub off the sample – then digitize the rub off and grade from there.

By: J C Sprowls

J C Sprowls — Sun, 02 Dec 2007 18:58:29 +0000

What I liked most about this article is the reference to Tuka’s article. In it, Ram is not trying to persuade buyers that CAD will magically solve their problems, that it’s a powerful tool. Not only for price; but, also for functionality and philosophy, I’m almost certain that Tuka will be the system I purchase in late ‘08 or early ‘09.

I’ve used student (i.e. pared-down) versions of commercial CAD system and a few of the hobby systems to generate patterns, before. We still have to analyze (i.e. walk pieces, fold out darts & pleats, etc.) and test (i.e. sew up a dummy or sample) the pattern in order to prove it for production. These steps are frequently overlooked, especially by the overly-confident and the overly-eager.

I agree w/ Rocio. Scale models are absolutely essential to work out problems, to study complex features or learn the properties of the materials that will be used. I do the same when working with materials that are new to me.

By: hannah

hannah — Sun, 02 Dec 2007 14:30:43 +0000

Hurray!
I started patternmaking fairly recently and it seems that everyone — whether they know anything about patternmaking or not — wants to tell me that I am living in the stone age and my skills will be useless in the very near future. So good to hear someone whose experience and knowledge I respect say differently. Thanks!

By: Rocio

Rocio — Sat, 01 Dec 2007 16:19:54 +0000

This got my attention because I have a client that manufactures “bouncy castles” for kid’s parties…
By using CAD, I cut the development cycle from 7 weeks to 2.

Due to the time (and expense) it takes to work with actual size samples, we make the prototypes at 1/4 scale and once they are approved, or changes are finalised I scale them up to true size and make the markes.

While I agree that the results would leave a lot to be desired if I didn’t have a strong pattern making background, the savings from cutting down the development cycle and lower sampling costs have already paid for the CAD system in 3 months…

The biggest misconception is to think of a CAD system as anything other than a tool!
Trying to execute a complex design, I would usually drape the parts I don’t have a block for first instead of trying to come up with a flat pattern on paper (in the days when I used to work by hand), so now I would still drape the complex features and DIGITISE THEM into the CAD system where I can use existing blocks to finalise it in a fraction of the time.