Pattern puzzle: Danielle 2
Here are some more descriptive pictures of the shirt. There are two front views, both with the pocket turned inside out and another with the pocket outside in. If I could suggest the “puzzle” part of it, I have been pondering how to create a symmetrical shirt that has two self-forming pockets, maybe F-I readers could come up with their own ideas on that one.
[In the first photo, in the lower right corner, you can see Sly chewing on Danielle's thumb. Sly died last August. Poor Sly. Poor Danielle. So sad. I couldn't look at that photo without remembering. Also, this being a blog, it's obligatory to observe all things cats.]
Here’s a crude way my brain wants to do something like this. Here’s my cruddy drawing to illustrate it. You’ll just have to put up with it, my illustrator is off being fashioney just now. Take a sheet of paper and fold it twice. In the corner, at the juncture of folds, draw in your pattern piece.
Then cut it out. Unfolded, it’ll look something like the piece below.
The sections marked with an “X”, you want in their entirety. The rest you want to trim away (below).
That’s a crude approximation. By the way, the first person I’ve found who did this along the lines of what I call ouroboros pattern drafting (here too), was Erte. I’ve reverse engineered some of his patterns from sketches. Some of it was cool! Most of his designs were never actually sewn up. I don’t think many could figure it out and he wasn’t exactly a pattern maker himself or had the time for it. It’s fun to draw quarter scale pieces from his illustrations (Dover reprints is the best source). The man could do sleeves.
Regarding this example, obviously you’d need to add some length beyond the desired finish length to encompass folding. Also, Danielle has hers bowing outwards rather than inward. You can do any number of fancy twisty stuff including holes to twist through like Danielle did but I think you get the general idea.
Issey Miyake (among others) have done similar pieces. I found one I liked after Gorgeous Ann reviewed it on Pattern Review (larger photo) and she was nice enough to lend it to me but I haven’t done anything with it yet beyond playing with the pattern pieces. Here’s the line sketch (Vogue 2814).
And here’s the pattern pieces.
I laid those pieces together, lining them up (1 and 1A) but I don’t see a difference between them. Either Vogue fudged on the quarter scales or I’ll have to go full scale to see the differences. Otherwise, a cursory examination finds these a two per.
That’s going to have to be it for today. I have a visitor coming today so I have to clean up and make nice. I’m having a Japanese translator coming from the college. I’m paying her to watch me browse and translate titles. I found the most awesomest Japanese pattern books on ebay but the seller wants a lot more for them than I know I’d pay on YesAsia. She has one Vionnet drafting book listed for 25 pounds and I know Bunka doesn’t put out anything that pricey. The problem is, while you can browse in English on YesAsia, none of the titles in which I’m potentially interested are translated so I don’t know if it’s really what I want. I was going to ask Massa or Teijo if they’d do it but then I thought it’d be too much of an imposition going back and forth, no this, no that, how much, what, where and but. I’ll tell you what I’ve found tomorrow. Some certain yummies are a children’s wear drafting book and one on Vionnet’s work. I’ve also decided I just have to have one of these, whatever it is.