Comments on: Pattern String Codes pt.2 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern_string_codes_pt2/ How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better. Sat, 11 Feb 2012 22:49:13 -0800 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 hourly 1 By: jessika http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern_string_codes_pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-4915 jessika Fri, 20 Oct 2006 16:31:28 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/10/pattern_string_codes_pt2/#comment-4915 Yes Jane - I agree that its best to have a good dress form that coordinates with your company's sizing scheme, but the fit model should match that as well...so even if one goes away, the new one should be a pretty close match. Luckily a designer really shouldn't have to be developing slopers over and over. I just prefer to finish my pattens off on a person - then you can see how it fits in relation to different movements, etc. (also how it feels for them) Dress forms are ideal for working on designs from a sloper (when all the basic components of fit are in place) and they are wonderfully patient! :) Yes Jane – I agree that its best to have a good dress form that coordinates with your company’s sizing scheme, but the fit model should match that as well…so even if one goes away, the new one should be a pretty close match. Luckily a designer really shouldn’t have to be developing slopers over and over. I just prefer to finish my pattens off on a person – then you can see how it fits in relation to different movements, etc. (also how it feels for them) Dress forms are ideal for working on designs from a sloper (when all the basic components of fit are in place) and they are wonderfully patient! :)

]]> By: Jane http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern_string_codes_pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-4914 Jane Thu, 19 Oct 2006 18:46:22 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/10/pattern_string_codes_pt2/#comment-4914 Wow, somebody actually makes money selling those things? When I used to teach fitting classes, I had my students get Vogues basic pattern. I haven't done it in years so I don't know if they still sell it, but it was Pattern 1000, I think. I was good and had some good information in the inserts about adjusting the pattern for different cup sizes. The problem with drafting to a fit model is when she quits and goes to work somewher else, I have to start all over. If I fit to my dress form and then find a model that is close, it doesn't matter if she changes jobs. My blocks will still be good. If the patternmaker is good, it doesn't matter how the pattern was developed either by hand or on the computer. Those are just 2 different tools. Like saying I used a Pencil or a Pen. It doesn't matter, it should turn out the same. The sample sloper doesn't look like the side seam and bottom of the dart are trued up. Kathleen, I am surprised you didn't mention the shape of the front armhole. It appears very misshapen. Even though the front armhole should be scooped deeper than the back, that one looks like it should be filled in. Unless it is distorted by the way the picture comes through on my computer. Also, If you measure from the HPS (High point of shoulder) on both the back and the front. The front should be longer by the at least 1/4" and sometimes more depending on the styling. (unless of course it is a forward laying shoulder like on an oxford shirt, etc.) By the way, Kathleen, I got my copy of your book and have enjoyed picking it up and reading what you suggested as the parts that I already know. I enjoyed reading your anatomy lesson when I comes to balancing a pattern. I have used those same principles from observation of the human frame even though I have no clue what the names of the various muscle groups are. Our cross back 4" down from back neck is wider and requires extra room to move the arm forward as opposed to the cross front at 2" down from front neck which is narrower. I would love to discuss with you about the back neck drop. Your instructions apply for blazers, jewel neck tops, etc. However, the issue of balance can be applied to garments with styling that allows the back neck to be much wider and lower. (Boat neck, open back, etc.) The garment then hangs from the HPS. It is the combination of relationship of the pieces to one another (like he picture of the front to back on your post), shoulder slope, side seam placement, neck width and drop, etc. There is nothing more satisfying to me than seeing a well balanced and clean hanging garment. I guess this stuff is my passion! Jane Wow, somebody actually makes money selling those things? When I used to teach fitting classes, I had my students get Vogues basic pattern. I haven’t done it in years so I don’t know if they still sell it, but it was Pattern 1000, I think. I was good and had some good information in the inserts about adjusting the pattern for different cup sizes. The problem with drafting to a fit model is when she quits and goes to work somewher else, I have to start all over. If I fit to my dress form and then find a model that is close, it doesn’t matter if she changes jobs. My blocks will still be good.

If the patternmaker is good, it doesn’t matter how the pattern was developed either by hand or on the computer. Those are just 2 different tools. Like saying I used a Pencil or a Pen. It doesn’t matter, it should turn out the same.

The sample sloper doesn’t look like the side seam and bottom of the dart are trued up. Kathleen, I am surprised you didn’t mention the shape of the front armhole. It appears very misshapen. Even though the front armhole should be scooped deeper than the back, that one looks like it should be filled in. Unless it is distorted by the way the picture comes through on my computer. Also, If you measure from the HPS (High point of shoulder) on both the back and the front. The front should be longer by the at least 1/4″ and sometimes more depending on the styling. (unless of course it is a forward laying shoulder like on an oxford shirt, etc.)

By the way, Kathleen, I got my copy of your book and have enjoyed picking it up and reading what you suggested as the parts that I already know.
I enjoyed reading your anatomy lesson when I comes to balancing a pattern. I have used those same principles from observation of the human frame even though I have no clue what the names of the various muscle groups are. Our cross back 4″ down from back neck is wider and requires extra room to move the arm forward as opposed to the cross front at 2″ down from front neck which is narrower.

I would love to discuss with you about the back neck drop. Your instructions apply for blazers, jewel neck tops, etc. However, the issue of balance can be applied to garments with styling that allows the back neck to be much wider and lower. (Boat neck, open back, etc.) The garment then hangs from the HPS. It is the combination of relationship of the pieces to one another (like he picture of the front to back on your post), shoulder slope, side seam placement, neck width and drop, etc.

There is nothing more satisfying to me than seeing a well balanced and clean hanging garment. I guess this stuff is my passion!

Jane

]]> By: Jessika http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern_string_codes_pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-4913 Jessika Thu, 19 Oct 2006 17:43:26 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/10/pattern_string_codes_pt2/#comment-4913 It's interesting to see what a pre-drafted sloper might be like - thanks for the review Kathleen! I've only used my own patterns and so it's especially nice to see, even just for the sake of curiosity, what's out there. I think the best way to get a pattern is truly from draping or drafting for a fit model. You only have to develop it once and then you have something worth having AND you really truly know the pattern inside and out. I'm sure the point of buying pre-made slopers is to avoid reinventing the wheel, but surely by the time one has corrected it, it would have been best to just make it yourself...at least you know it is right. :) It’s interesting to see what a pre-drafted sloper might be like – thanks for the review Kathleen! I’ve only used my own patterns and so it’s especially nice to see, even just for the sake of curiosity, what’s out there. I think the best way to get a pattern is truly from draping or drafting for a fit model. You only have to develop it once and then you have something worth having AND you really truly know the pattern inside and out. I’m sure the point of buying pre-made slopers is to avoid reinventing the wheel, but surely by the time one has corrected it, it would have been best to just make it yourself…at least you know it is right. :)

]]> By: Trish http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern_string_codes_pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-4912 Trish Thu, 19 Oct 2006 04:39:45 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/10/pattern_string_codes_pt2/#comment-4912 Jan, CB is center back. My other thought is that the block pattern looks terrible. I would be very disappointed if I had bought it. I think it is faster to draft from scratch than correct that weird pattern. Jan, CB is center back.

My other thought is that the block pattern looks terrible. I would be very disappointed if I had bought it. I think it is faster to draft from scratch than correct that weird pattern.

]]> By: Tatiana http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern_string_codes_pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-4911 Tatiana Thu, 19 Oct 2006 02:07:19 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/10/pattern_string_codes_pt2/#comment-4911 Please forgive my ignorance, I'm an alien to American terminology (or part of it) – what is the CB measurement? (or where I can look for it?) Please forgive my ignorance, I’m an alien to American terminology (or part of it) – what is the CB measurement? (or where I can look for it?)

]]> By: Jan http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern_string_codes_pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-4910 Jan Wed, 18 Oct 2006 23:26:25 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/10/pattern_string_codes_pt2/#comment-4910 It almost looks like they thought you have rather forward thrust shoulders, but the measurements they required would not give any indication of that. I find that most people these days do tend to have a longer back measurement because of modern posture and a concomitant change in the shape of the sleeve cap. Just a thought. It almost looks like they thought you have rather forward thrust shoulders, but the measurements they required would not give any indication of that. I find that most people these days do tend to have a longer back measurement because of modern posture and a concomitant change in the shape of the sleeve cap. Just a thought.

]]> By: victoria kathrein http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern_string_codes_pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-4909 victoria kathrein Wed, 18 Oct 2006 17:42:51 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/10/pattern_string_codes_pt2/#comment-4909 Kathleen, we communicated before, I am the one from Chicago who is trying to make some logical sence of patternmaking - aka garment engineering. Could you point me in the direction of this eight head system you mentioned. I would like to read more about it. Thank you. Victoria Kathleen, we communicated before, I am the one from Chicago who is trying to make some logical sence of patternmaking – aka garment engineering. Could you point me in the direction of this eight head system you mentioned. I would like to read more about it.

Thank you.

Victoria

]]> By: Janyce Engan http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern_string_codes_pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-4908 Janyce Engan Wed, 18 Oct 2006 16:37:34 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/10/pattern_string_codes_pt2/#comment-4908 To my eye - these do look like they were generated by one of the CAD programs - such as Symmetry or Dress Shop - they may be just a straight up Gerber program or something like that - but given the description in Kathleen's post - I'm guessing that they are "plug and play" - with some operator punching in the measurements someone has sent in, and not having an actual pattern maker double checking what comes out of the plotter. Granted - that these are suppose to be a jumping off place for design, but ideally you'd want to at least eliminate having to correct the darn thing. On that note - does anyone have a product or company they can vouch for - for a good set of standard slopers? I have a huge project to undertake involving about 5,000 original Victorian/Edwardian patterns, and would like to find something that will let me get closer to a first draft modern-day body size without totally redrafting the patterns by hand and making a gazillion muslins. Thanks Janyce Engan Vintage Pattern Lending Library To my eye – these do look like they were generated by one of the CAD programs – such as Symmetry or Dress Shop – they may be just a straight up Gerber program or something like that – but given the description in Kathleen’s post – I’m guessing that they are “plug and play” – with some operator punching in the measurements someone has sent in, and not having an actual pattern maker double checking what comes out of the plotter.

Granted – that these are suppose to be a jumping off place for design, but ideally you’d want to at least eliminate having to correct the darn thing.

On that note – does anyone have a product or company they can vouch for – for a good set of standard slopers?

I have a huge project to undertake involving about 5,000 original Victorian/Edwardian patterns, and would like to find something that will let me get closer to a first draft modern-day body size without totally redrafting the patterns by hand and making a gazillion muslins.

Thanks
Janyce Engan
Vintage Pattern
Lending Library

]]> By: KellyT http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern_string_codes_pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-4907 KellyT Wed, 18 Oct 2006 16:27:18 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/10/pattern_string_codes_pt2/#comment-4907 Thank you very much for your review of the Stingcodes bodice block. It was very interesting and brought up things that I would not have thought of; like the red line measurement. I thought Stingcodes would be a great solution for those of us interested in starting a design business, on a budget. After your review it looks like I would be better off to make my own block based on a pattern company sloper or hand drafted from a book, and standard measurements. Thank you very much for your review of the Stingcodes bodice block. It was very interesting and brought up things that I would not have thought of; like the red line measurement.
I thought Stingcodes would be a great solution for those of us interested in starting a design business, on a budget. After your review it looks like I would be better off to make my own block based on a pattern company sloper or hand drafted from a book, and standard measurements.

]]> By: Esther http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern_string_codes_pt2/comment-page-1/#comment-4906 Esther Wed, 18 Oct 2006 14:52:35 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/10/pattern_string_codes_pt2/#comment-4906 I am wondering if these came from a made-to-measure CAD system? I am wondering if these came from a made-to-measure CAD system?

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