Comments on: Patternworks Inc http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patternworks_inc/ How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better. Sat, 11 Feb 2012 14:09:09 -0800 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 hourly 1 By: J C Sprowls http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patternworks_inc/comment-page-1/#comment-5992 J C Sprowls Sun, 04 Feb 2007 16:52:05 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/01/patternworks_inc/#comment-5992 Cinzia, This is part of manufacturing specs. Operators are taught to trim a consistent 1/8" off when overlocking becuase it removes the bruised edge of the fabric and makes a neat seam. Sometimes you can get away with not using a trim allowance on firmer fabrics. But, in the case of knits, it's better to not shortcut. Edge-lock can also help, it's a product applied to the cut edge in the cutting room. But, there are limitations to the trade off. The knife is a 'consumable' like needles and thread. You need to include it's lifetime cost in the product costs. For example: for every 10hrs sewing time (i.e. 10 shirts), I consume 1 needle. Cinzia,

This is part of manufacturing specs. Operators are taught to trim a consistent 1/8″ off when overlocking becuase it removes the bruised edge of the fabric and makes a neat seam.

Sometimes you can get away with not using a trim allowance on firmer fabrics. But, in the case of knits, it’s better to not shortcut. Edge-lock can also help, it’s a product applied to the cut edge in the cutting room. But, there are limitations to the trade off.

The knife is a ‘consumable’ like needles and thread. You need to include it’s lifetime cost in the product costs. For example: for every 10hrs sewing time (i.e. 10 shirts), I consume 1 needle.

]]> By: Cinzia M. I. http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patternworks_inc/comment-page-1/#comment-5991 Cinzia M. I. Sun, 04 Feb 2007 00:48:17 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/01/patternworks_inc/#comment-5991 Can someone explain why the seam allowance used in the industry for cut and sew knits is 3/8" ??? And then an 1/8" is cut away when serging seams together. Why not start with a 1/4" seam allowance and save the knife on your overlock machine from all that cutting away. Still learning ...... Cinzia Can someone explain why the seam allowance used in the industry for cut and sew knits is 3/8″ ??? And then an 1/8″ is cut away when serging seams together.

Why not start with a 1/4″ seam allowance and save the knife on your overlock machine from all that cutting away.

Still learning ……
Cinzia

]]> By: robyn http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patternworks_inc/comment-page-1/#comment-5990 robyn Fri, 02 Feb 2007 12:57:59 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/01/patternworks_inc/#comment-5990 Christy, there are some flatlock machines that trim, I have never seen one either, but some of my customers require that I leave them 3/8" seam allowance for their machinery. If I am using the wider seam allowance I put in 1/8" slit notches because these will be trimmed off. If they are one of the customers that require 1/8" seam allowances then we don't put notches in. I hate to do that, but they can cause holes if a slit notch, and have to be trimmed if an external "v". Christy, there are some flatlock machines that trim, I have never seen one either, but some of my customers require that I leave them 3/8″ seam allowance for their machinery. If I am using the wider seam allowance I put in 1/8″ slit notches because these will be trimmed off. If they are one of the customers that require 1/8″ seam allowances then we don’t put notches in. I hate to do that, but they can cause holes if a slit notch, and have to be trimmed if an external “v”.

]]> By: Christy B. http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patternworks_inc/comment-page-1/#comment-5989 Christy B. Thu, 01 Feb 2007 22:52:16 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/01/patternworks_inc/#comment-5989 Hi Irene, Does your sample maker cut off the extra 1/8" from each side after the seam has been sewn? The flatlock machines I'm familiar with don't cut like overlock machines so does someone has to come by with sciccors after sewing, correct? What do you do for notches?? (I've had a post up in the forum for ages about them but nobody's come to my rescue.) I'm a pattern maker for athletic apparel as well; it'd be nice to have someone like you to chat with while I'm working!!! -Christy Hi Irene,

Does your sample maker cut off the extra 1/8″ from each side after the seam has been sewn? The flatlock machines I’m familiar with don’t cut like overlock machines so does someone has to come by with sciccors after sewing, correct? What do you do for notches?? (I’ve had a post up in the forum for ages about them but nobody’s come to my rescue.) I’m a pattern maker for athletic apparel as well; it’d be nice to have someone like you to chat with while I’m working!!!

-Christy

]]> By: Big Irv http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patternworks_inc/comment-page-1/#comment-5988 Big Irv Thu, 01 Feb 2007 22:29:30 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/01/patternworks_inc/#comment-5988 In my opinion, the marketplace sorely needs a computer/software program that will assist smaller designers in all aspects of apparel data management. As a service provider, I see many people get tripped up over real small things that an efficient system tailored to this industry would most likely prevent. Here in Toronto, we receive calls from "consultants" that have the next best program to manage your affairs . Sometimes we take the time to review it, to see if it would be a fit. Really haven't found much to replace or improve upon what we currently use. In most cases, the price tag is whopping. Some try to soften the pain by providing a free supply chain analysis. I think this was one of the reasons why we consented to review their program in the first place ! I think a system designed by people with industry experience, especially smaller apparel companies will be really well received. If it is reasonably priced, then I think they could hit the jackpot in a big way. In my opinion, the marketplace sorely needs a computer/software program that will assist smaller designers in all aspects of apparel data management.

As a service provider, I see many people get tripped up over real small things that an efficient system tailored to this industry would most likely prevent.

Here in Toronto, we receive calls from “consultants” that have the next best program to manage your affairs . Sometimes we take the time to review it, to see if it would be a fit. Really haven’t found much to replace or improve upon what we currently use. In most cases, the price tag is whopping. Some try to soften the pain by providing a free supply chain analysis. I think this was one of the reasons why we consented to review their program in the first place !

I think a system designed by people with industry experience, especially smaller apparel companies will be really well received. If it is reasonably priced, then I think they could hit the jackpot in a big way.

]]> By: Irene http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patternworks_inc/comment-page-1/#comment-5987 Irene Thu, 01 Feb 2007 22:02:35 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/01/patternworks_inc/#comment-5987 I'm a pattern-maker for an athletic apparel company which uses flatlock all the time. I always leave 1/4" seam allowance for those seams. I was leaving 1/8" until I found out that the manufacturer always ends up cutting off at least 1/8" while they construct those seams. No wonder all those samples were a bit smaller than I was expecting! I’m a pattern-maker for an athletic apparel company which uses flatlock all the time. I always leave 1/4″ seam allowance for those seams. I was leaving 1/8″ until I found out that the manufacturer always ends up cutting off at least 1/8″ while they construct those seams. No wonder all those samples were a bit smaller than I was expecting!

]]> By: Esther http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patternworks_inc/comment-page-1/#comment-5986 Esther Thu, 01 Feb 2007 19:04:07 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/01/patternworks_inc/#comment-5986 Various dress form companies sell the children's form with heads. Usually the head is kept separate from the form because there is no way to suspend the form otherwise. A form with a head is stored standing directly on the floor, which is difficult on the form's legs. The recommended infant head opening circumference is a minimum 20 inches (21 inches is better). Knit tops should stretch to this measurement. This requirement is why so many infant tops have snaps on the shoulder or down the back. Great review of Patternworks! I'll keep their info on file. Various dress form companies sell the children’s form with heads. Usually the head is kept separate from the form because there is no way to suspend the form otherwise. A form with a head is stored standing directly on the floor, which is difficult on the form’s legs. The recommended infant head opening circumference is a minimum 20 inches (21 inches is better). Knit tops should stretch to this measurement. This requirement is why so many infant tops have snaps on the shoulder or down the back.

Great review of Patternworks! I’ll keep their info on file.

]]> By: Suzanne http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patternworks_inc/comment-page-1/#comment-5985 Suzanne Thu, 01 Feb 2007 16:55:39 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/01/patternworks_inc/#comment-5985 What a wonderful place! I alternately feel like I was there with you and wish I could visit! Thanks for the review and the pictures were great. I love the child-sized dress form. As a mother of four children, some with big heads, I know the pain of dressing a child in a shirt that won't easily go over their head. In fact, some brands are always tight and others have annoying and fiddly snaps at the back of the neck. I avoid these at all costs. When exactly is the grand opening? Would it coincide with the LA show? What a wonderful place! I alternately feel like I was there with you and wish I could visit! Thanks for the review and the pictures were great.

I love the child-sized dress form. As a mother of four children, some with big heads, I know the pain of dressing a child in a shirt that won’t easily go over their head. In fact, some brands are always tight and others have annoying and fiddly snaps at the back of the neck. I avoid these at all costs.

When exactly is the grand opening? Would it coincide with the LA show?

]]> By: colleen http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patternworks_inc/comment-page-1/#comment-5984 colleen Thu, 01 Feb 2007 13:29:59 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/01/patternworks_inc/#comment-5984 Thanks for this post - Patternworks sounds great!I looked at their website which clearly explains the variety of services offered and, my favorite, a price list. The photos really add to the report - I feel like I've been there and met them. Thanks for this post – Patternworks sounds great!I looked at their website which clearly explains the variety of services offered and, my favorite, a price list.
The photos really add to the report – I feel like I’ve been there and met them.

]]> By: Heather http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patternworks_inc/comment-page-1/#comment-5983 Heather Thu, 01 Feb 2007 03:19:58 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/01/patternworks_inc/#comment-5983 Man that post makes me WANT to need them. Sounds fabulous. Man that post makes me WANT to need them. Sounds fabulous.

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