Comments on: Pet Peeve: Cutters and Mixed Markers

By: Martin Taylor

Martin Taylor — Tue, 20 Sep 2011 08:47:32 +0000

we used to joke about making wash cloths from the fall out many years ago when making terry cloth bath robes. I say “joked” because we tried to convince the company to do just that.
About the only time I mixed styles in the past was the mixing of a top and its related bottom.
Nowadays (at LION anyway), we will mix sizes, calling them “combo markers”, but not styles, with one exception- “aluminized” apparel (protective gear). The fabric is so expensive and so narrow it is difficult getting a good yield so sometimes I will insert pieces from other styles such as collars, pockets or gussets to fill in the fall out.

By: Iris

Iris — Wed, 07 Mar 2007 03:56:01 +0000

I am just starting up a small company and my idea was to design 3 groups of 5 items each. I found a contractor who quoted me prices for pattern making, grading & marking, and sample making. Now that I have most of the pattern making done, he now introduces the cost of cutting ($85 per item). My initial plan was to carry no inventory – I planned to have one sample of every item in every size. I was then going to do trunk shows and take orders. This huge cutting charge is going to kill me. Any suggestions for a cutting service willing to do very small quantities?

By: Kathleen

Kathleen — Fri, 09 Feb 2007 15:50:20 +0000

It’s funny that you mention this Andy

Much of the issues can be solved using a professional CAD software for spreading such as Lectra.

because the marker in question was made via CAD, specifically a Lectra system.

By: Andy Chang

Andy Chang — Fri, 09 Feb 2007 03:02:02 +0000

I had been in this business for over 13 years and have never heard of a cutting chrage for fabric swatch. How would these fabric mill expect to conduct business if they don’t provide fabric swatch for designers to review and use in their fashion line?

Every year I send out no less than 100 swatch book to my customers for review so they can see what other people are using for a specific line. In addition my customers will also provide me with direction each season as to what they want to see and I will prepare swatches for them to review.

Also, in reference to mixed markers, I think that is a great way to do things. It’s much more cost effective. A lot of designers don’t understand the production aspect of the business, They only want what looks good but many times overlook the minimum quantity issues. If different styles can share a certain fabric, that can help reduce cost dramatically. However, that is provided that the mixed markers are properly logged on the pattern so there are no mix up. And provided that the people cutting the lot have properly marked the bundle so there would be no mix up.

Much of the issues can be solved using a professional CAD software for spreading such as Lectra.

By: C

Tue, 06 Feb 2007 20:56:00 +0000

Mixed markers are a must to increase utilization for smaller runs.

The sorting process can be made easier if the cutter is using a CAD based cutting machine that has the ability to label or mark each cut piece as its cutting. Newer cutting machines even have the ability to burn bar codes on cut pieces as they’re cutting. This of course only works for single layering if you want every piece identified.

By: Babette

Babette — Sun, 04 Feb 2007 22:15:31 +0000

As I understand it, cutters charge (are paid) according to their time. If each style is laid up and cut seperately, they get paid more because it takes longer (and yes it also wastes more fabric). Mixed markers cut down their opportunity to charge. I expect that’s what they don’t like.

I don’t know about anywhere else, but mixed markers is the way this stuff is taught in Australia nowdays. No one manufacturing on shore is doing large enough runs of anything to cut any other way. Most DEs are also making multiple use of the same fabric in their collections so as to improve their ordering ability with the textile wholesalers so it makes sense on multiple fronts.

By: Elizabeth

Elizabeth — Fri, 02 Feb 2007 19:25:56 +0000

Thanks Mike.

By: Mike C

Mike C — Fri, 02 Feb 2007 14:40:27 +0000

Another question I have in regards to fees is about fabric cutting fees- from suppliers. As in, you’re purchasing 100yds of fabric and there’s a $15-20 cutting fee. I understand if you buy small quantities, but after a certain amount it just feels like another one of those no one will play with me things.

Surcharges for small orders are common. 100yds would often be considered a small order size.

Oh, and is it common to charge for swatches? I don’t mean high end fabrics. I got a sample about a third of a yard long and 60″ wide sample, plus a color card, and all pertinent info when I requested a swatch from another company.
All I need is two swatches and this company tries to sell me their entire catalog for $15. Why the discrepancies between companies?

I wouldn’t call it common, but its not rare either.

By: Trish

Trish — Fri, 02 Feb 2007 03:26:37 +0000

I am a fan of mixed markers. I think they can be fabulous for utilization of textiles…. but I can imagine the cutter’s take on this, LOL.

By the way, I could not make it to Las Cruces tonight. I hope your talk went well. I wish I could have made it!!!

By: Elizabeth

Elizabeth — Fri, 02 Feb 2007 02:09:26 +0000

I was actually wondering about this- mixed markers, I didn’t know the name as I didn’t know they existed outside my logic. I did however hear of “bundling fees”. Nobody I ever talked to likes them, isn’t that part of the price? I thought when asking to price a garment, they get to factor in all those little steps. I don’t really need a break down, am I wrong? If anything I’d see them as hidden fees.

Another question I have in regards to fees is about fabric cutting fees- from suppliers. As in, you’re purchasing 100yds of fabric and there’s a $15-20 cutting fee. I understand if you buy small quantities, but after a certain amount it just feels like another one of those no one will play with me things.

Oh, and is it common to charge for swatches? I don’t mean high end fabrics. I got a sample about a third of a yard long and 60″ wide sample, plus a color card, and all pertinent info when I requested a swatch from another company.
All I need is two swatches and this company tries to sell me their entire catalog for $15. Why the discrepancies between companies?

Thank you.