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	<title>Comments on: Poka Yoke pattern making</title>
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	<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/poka_yoke_pattern_making/</link>
	<description>How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better.</description>
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		<title>By: RoseAngela W.</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/poka_yoke_pattern_making/comment-page-1/#comment-55550</link>
		<dc:creator>RoseAngela W.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Dec 2011 12:58:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2005/10/poka_yoke_pattern_making/#comment-55550</guid>
		<description>perfect!  Adding this one to my sewing repertoire.  Thanks Kathleen!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>perfect!  Adding this one to my sewing repertoire.  Thanks Kathleen!</p>
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		<title>By: Kathleen</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/poka_yoke_pattern_making/comment-page-1/#comment-54737</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 19 Dec 2011 19:59:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2005/10/poka_yoke_pattern_making/#comment-54737</guid>
		<description>Yay! I found a source for greenback pattern paper in Dallas that is reasonably priced. Here are the details:
2X, 9&quot; diameter, 48&quot; wide, $139.
&lt;a href=&quot;http://sunnysewingmachine.com/parts-request/paper/565-green-back-pattern-paper-9q-diameter-rolls-2x-gage-01-mil.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sunny Sewing&lt;/a&gt;, Dallas TX</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yay! I found a source for greenback pattern paper in Dallas that is reasonably priced. Here are the details:<br />
2X, 9&#8243; diameter, 48&#8243; wide, $139.<br />
<a href="http://sunnysewingmachine.com/parts-request/paper/565-green-back-pattern-paper-9q-diameter-rolls-2x-gage-01-mil.html" rel="nofollow">Sunny Sewing</a>, Dallas TX</p>
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		<title>By: RoseAngela W.</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/poka_yoke_pattern_making/comment-page-1/#comment-50344</link>
		<dc:creator>RoseAngela W.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Nov 2011 10:10:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2005/10/poka_yoke_pattern_making/#comment-50344</guid>
		<description>Your book&#039;s perspective is just what I thought you were aiming for, and just what is needed!  Do it Kathleen.... you will be blessing all of us!

anything I can do to help as a student, ....!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Your book&#8217;s perspective is just what I thought you were aiming for, and just what is needed!  Do it Kathleen&#8230;. you will be blessing all of us!</p>
<p>anything I can do to help as a student, &#8230;.!</p>
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		<title>By: Kathleen</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/poka_yoke_pattern_making/comment-page-1/#comment-50248</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Nov 2011 21:12:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2005/10/poka_yoke_pattern_making/#comment-50248</guid>
		<description>Wow! $4.50 per yard? That is crazy. Southstar sells oaktag for what amounts to $1.50 per yard (@$100 for a 200 foot roll). It&#039;s not greenback but it isn&#039;t worth the $3 extra per yard to me. Good to know tho, thanks for dropping that link. Someone had been asking about greenback in the forum awhile back. 

The patternmaking book is not like anyone else&#039;s, it&#039;s not how to make X styles. It&#039;s all the stuff that pattern books never mention along with sewing it up etc. You know, production stuff. Like how to correct the overlap on a V so the two points line up.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Wow! $4.50 per yard? That is crazy. Southstar sells oaktag for what amounts to $1.50 per yard (@$100 for a 200 foot roll). It&#8217;s not greenback but it isn&#8217;t worth the $3 extra per yard to me. Good to know tho, thanks for dropping that link. Someone had been asking about greenback in the forum awhile back. </p>
<p>The patternmaking book is not like anyone else&#8217;s, it&#8217;s not how to make X styles. It&#8217;s all the stuff that pattern books never mention along with sewing it up etc. You know, production stuff. Like how to correct the overlap on a V so the two points line up.</p>
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		<title>By: RoseAngela W.</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/poka_yoke_pattern_making/comment-page-1/#comment-50198</link>
		<dc:creator>RoseAngela W.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Nov 2011 12:14:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2005/10/poka_yoke_pattern_making/#comment-50198</guid>
		<description>Hi Kathleen,

I am trying to contain my joy here .... My two cents:  I am glad you are thinking about writing a book on patternmaking

Ditto on final fashion&#039;s comments exactly.  My school, so far (Fashion Design I), instructs us to do the same on our patterns.  I will keep my eyes peeled for &#039;upgraded&#039; info as we progress.  (AAU tends to give more info as we graduate up the levels of FD).

Your instructions make sense to me .... I am understanding in industry, clarification in communication is key.  Symbols and coding that everyone can understand in more important.  

Regarding home sewing pattern instructions, I remember reading that market assumes that the sewer already &#039;knows&#039; how to sew and that the home sewer is taking command of their system of organization with their sewing plan so they leave all organization details to the discretion of the home sewer.  They are only giving a guide to pattern layout and cutting and sewing.  The rest is not their concern.  They are only in the business of selling patterns.  

I have also shopped at V Brothers, they are pretty good at customer service.  
You can also find green backed pattern paper for $4.50/yard.  Sold by yard or 120 yard rolls at:

http://sewtrue.com/Store/Tagboard-Pattern-Paper-P231.html</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Kathleen,</p>
<p>I am trying to contain my joy here &#8230;. My two cents:  I am glad you are thinking about writing a book on patternmaking</p>
<p>Ditto on final fashion&#8217;s comments exactly.  My school, so far (Fashion Design I), instructs us to do the same on our patterns.  I will keep my eyes peeled for &#8216;upgraded&#8217; info as we progress.  (AAU tends to give more info as we graduate up the levels of FD).</p>
<p>Your instructions make sense to me &#8230;. I am understanding in industry, clarification in communication is key.  Symbols and coding that everyone can understand in more important.  </p>
<p>Regarding home sewing pattern instructions, I remember reading that market assumes that the sewer already &#8216;knows&#8217; how to sew and that the home sewer is taking command of their system of organization with their sewing plan so they leave all organization details to the discretion of the home sewer.  They are only giving a guide to pattern layout and cutting and sewing.  The rest is not their concern.  They are only in the business of selling patterns.  </p>
<p>I have also shopped at V Brothers, they are pretty good at customer service.<br />
You can also find green backed pattern paper for $4.50/yard.  Sold by yard or 120 yard rolls at:</p>
<p><a href="http://sewtrue.com/Store/Tagboard-Pattern-Paper-P231.html" rel="nofollow">http://sewtrue.com/Store/Tagboard-Pattern-Paper-P231.html</a></p>
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		<title>By: Lily Yang</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/poka_yoke_pattern_making/comment-page-1/#comment-36013</link>
		<dc:creator>Lily Yang</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 May 2011 21:11:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2005/10/poka_yoke_pattern_making/#comment-36013</guid>
		<description>Hi Kathleen,
Thank you very much for responding the post. Just wanted to understand about the information on the pattern cart and cuter mast. You state that &quot;the specifications of the pieces to cut and of which fabric would be repeated on the pattern card and cutter’s must.&quot;
Pattern card
When I write my pattern card I tend to write in total of the pattern of each piece for one style pattern,ie., cuff / 4 Qty. and with a note:contrast(in purple ink to match my note written on the pattern:cut 2 self(black ink ) /cut 2 contrast(purple ink ) ):cuff,collar stand.... 
Do you think it will be better if I do other way like:#7 upper cuff /2 Qty. under cuff /2Qty. even thought I only have one pattern for cuff.  
Do you write date on the pattern?

Cutter mast
If so the cutter mast is operated base on the fabric that should be cut but not by the number of pattern piece. Therefore, we should write self on one card ,interfacing on one card and contrast fabric on one card for one style pattern. Is that what you mean?
Do you write fabric information to the cutter mast such as fabric width,color,fiber content and illustration (flat)?

Thank you,</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Kathleen,<br />
Thank you very much for responding the post. Just wanted to understand about the information on the pattern cart and cuter mast. You state that &#8220;the specifications of the pieces to cut and of which fabric would be repeated on the pattern card and cutter’s must.&#8221;<br />
Pattern card<br />
When I write my pattern card I tend to write in total of the pattern of each piece for one style pattern,ie., cuff / 4 Qty. and with a note:contrast(in purple ink to match my note written on the pattern:cut 2 self(black ink ) /cut 2 contrast(purple ink ) ):cuff,collar stand&#8230;.<br />
Do you think it will be better if I do other way like:#7 upper cuff /2 Qty. under cuff /2Qty. even thought I only have one pattern for cuff.<br />
Do you write date on the pattern?</p>
<p>Cutter mast<br />
If so the cutter mast is operated base on the fabric that should be cut but not by the number of pattern piece. Therefore, we should write self on one card ,interfacing on one card and contrast fabric on one card for one style pattern. Is that what you mean?<br />
Do you write fabric information to the cutter mast such as fabric width,color,fiber content and illustration (flat)?</p>
<p>Thank you,</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Kathleen</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/poka_yoke_pattern_making/comment-page-1/#comment-36008</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 May 2011 19:13:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2005/10/poka_yoke_pattern_making/#comment-36008</guid>
		<description>Hi Lily. It is assumed one would flip the pattern depending on the number to cut so it would not need a marking to tell someone to flip it. 

If a cuff were a total 4 per to cut but two of them were contrast, you would write:
cut 2 per (black ink for shell)
cut 2 per (green or purple ink for contrast)
the specifications of the pieces to cut and of which fabric would be repeated on the pattern card and cutter&#039;s must. The latter are a parts list of pieces to cut to complete the style.

Re: more details on patterns (ie company name etc). I suspect this would be more typical of a package service that provides pattern services along with production. It is not wrong to do it like this (and it&#039;s not wrong not to either). Every service provider has internal means to track each client&#039;s work. I do it by the job. I&#039;m not a large firm so it is not difficult. I track each customer&#039;s job with the pattern card; that has the company&#039;s name on it etc.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Lily. It is assumed one would flip the pattern depending on the number to cut so it would not need a marking to tell someone to flip it. </p>
<p>If a cuff were a total 4 per to cut but two of them were contrast, you would write:<br />
cut 2 per (black ink for shell)<br />
cut 2 per (green or purple ink for contrast)<br />
the specifications of the pieces to cut and of which fabric would be repeated on the pattern card and cutter&#8217;s must. The latter are a parts list of pieces to cut to complete the style.</p>
<p>Re: more details on patterns (ie company name etc). I suspect this would be more typical of a package service that provides pattern services along with production. It is not wrong to do it like this (and it&#8217;s not wrong not to either). Every service provider has internal means to track each client&#8217;s work. I do it by the job. I&#8217;m not a large firm so it is not difficult. I track each customer&#8217;s job with the pattern card; that has the company&#8217;s name on it etc.</p>
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		<title>By: Lily Yang</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/poka_yoke_pattern_making/comment-page-1/#comment-35979</link>
		<dc:creator>Lily Yang</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 May 2011 06:43:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2005/10/poka_yoke_pattern_making/#comment-35979</guid>
		<description>I really love your website. It&#039;s been very very helpful. Here are some question for you,if you happen see it:
If the pattern need to use both side, how do you mark it on the pattern to indicate that turn over other side to cut. For example shirt&#039;s cuff(upper cuff and under cuff but normally you only make one cuff and write cut 4 self on the pattern.) Also what about with contrast fabric for under cuff,how to mark it?

I&#039;ve see pattern wrote done more details like company name,type of garment(ex,men&#039;s shirt button up)style number,size and number of cut.However from the photo you showed,I only see the style number,part of garment,size, nap direction and side of notice.IS that what you usually use for the production?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I really love your website. It&#8217;s been very very helpful. Here are some question for you,if you happen see it:<br />
If the pattern need to use both side, how do you mark it on the pattern to indicate that turn over other side to cut. For example shirt&#8217;s cuff(upper cuff and under cuff but normally you only make one cuff and write cut 4 self on the pattern.) Also what about with contrast fabric for under cuff,how to mark it?</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve see pattern wrote done more details like company name,type of garment(ex,men&#8217;s shirt button up)style number,size and number of cut.However from the photo you showed,I only see the style number,part of garment,size, nap direction and side of notice.IS that what you usually use for the production?</p>
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		<title>By: Fashion Incubator» Directional writing on pattern pieces</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/poka_yoke_pattern_making/comment-page-1/#comment-27322</link>
		<dc:creator>Fashion Incubator» Directional writing on pattern pieces</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Nov 2010 23:00:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2005/10/poka_yoke_pattern_making/#comment-27322</guid>
		<description>[...] response to the entry on preventing sewing mistakes through proper pattern marking, Trish wrote: I was taught to write along the grain line. Why is this not a good [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] response to the entry on preventing sewing mistakes through proper pattern marking, Trish wrote: I was taught to write along the grain line. Why is this not a good [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Trish</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/poka_yoke_pattern_making/comment-page-1/#comment-27300</link>
		<dc:creator>Trish</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Nov 2010 03:06:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2005/10/poka_yoke_pattern_making/#comment-27300</guid>
		<description>Kathleen... help!! I was taught from industry patternmakers to annotate (write) on (not the grain) but a straight line on the pattern.  Why is this not a good idea?

Also, the same company taught me that we would always use an arrow, but only pointing to the bottom of the piece.  Would this not be important for one-way and directional prints?

Finally, another thing the same company taught me is that each grain line should go from top to bottom of the entire pattern piece and that they should align for pieces that are attached during sewing.

Just curious about the location of annotation, if you happen to see this.. thanks, Trish</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kathleen&#8230; help!! I was taught from industry patternmakers to annotate (write) on (not the grain) but a straight line on the pattern.  Why is this not a good idea?</p>
<p>Also, the same company taught me that we would always use an arrow, but only pointing to the bottom of the piece.  Would this not be important for one-way and directional prints?</p>
<p>Finally, another thing the same company taught me is that each grain line should go from top to bottom of the entire pattern piece and that they should align for pieces that are attached during sewing.</p>
<p>Just curious about the location of annotation, if you happen to see this.. thanks, Trish</p>
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