Comments on: Pop quiz #483 pt.2

By: Lisa B. in Portland

Lisa B. in Portland — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 03:42:02 +0000

I just now read parts 1 and 2 and I did notice that the side seam lengths were different from armpit to hem. And that it looked different from other graded nests I’d seen.

By: Sonia Levesque

Sonia Levesque — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 23:17:33 +0000

I work in Plus Size and leave the side seam equal all the way through grading.

I also leave the under arm point on an horizontal line, so the armhole gets longer from the shoulder line. I like this way of working, because a rounder body usually needs a little more length in the upper back and thus, around the arm. Does NOT make for a super low armhole OR a longer top in the end…

I HATE too low armholes! Looks cheap and you end up with a silhouette less defined; meaning looking fatter. Yeeeesh!

By: Alison Cummins

Alison Cummins — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 23:05:42 +0000

Well there might be less fabric between armpit and hem in the larger grades, but that’s *appropriate* for fitting someone fatter. As I spend more time eating corn chips and staring into a computer monitor and less time hiking through the backcountry, while simultaneously entering menopause and slowing my metabolic rate, my clothes will need to be roomier around the arms. The front and back lengths will stay the same, but the shoulder heights and torso girths will need to expand to accomodate my figure as it becomes more spherical.

Which is what I thought was so interesting about this grade. This is for the fat-through-skinny versions of a figure at a single height. Not big-through-small versions of a single figure type.