Comments on: Pop Quiz #483

By: dosfashionistas

dosfashionistas — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 23:57:12 +0000

The shape at the center back does not follow the contour of the body. It should curve slightly more and come into the neck at a right angle, not pointed out. Also, the curve out for the hip should be larger than the curve out for the shoulders. And there should be a double notch. And the back neck and shoulders are very strange. It looks as though the larger size is actually smaller than the smaller size, but I may not be following the line correctly. Since the pieces are stacked at the waist, the back length (y coordinate as we are looking at these) should be showing more grade at the neck and at the shoulders on the back. If someone handed me these pieces I would start by working on that back pattern and then just regrade the whole thing. I tend to get confused when I try to fix someone else’s mistake.

By: alboulay

alboulay — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 20:40:16 +0000

I agree that the CB should be squared at the neck line then curved to blend to the notch.
Also the CB notch should be graded and move with each size as should the hem. But in this case, it looks like people only grow in length from waist up. If the CB notch doesn’t move in relation to the side seam this jacket will be disproportionate.
For the larger size the shoulders raise as the A/H drops which is fine, but then the SS gets shorter too for larger size? —don’t believe that’s usually the case. Distribute the lengthwise grade a little better.
I also don’t like the idea that, for a top, there are two (0,0) coordinates on the same piece: at CB neck and at CB hem.

By: Robyn Ramirez

Robyn Ramirez — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 18:50:24 +0000

The center front looks crooked. The front piece is not graded the same way the the back piece.

By: Alison Cummins

Alison Cummins — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 17:28:33 +0000

StaceyE — yeah, I caught that too. This doesn’t seem to be about grading to an overall larger size, but to thinner and fatter versions of someone of a particular height. Morphing not grading.

By: StaceyE

StaceyE — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 16:38:04 +0000

There is one other point that I find amusing besides the CB angle. Take a look at the dart length grade and then at the waist length grade. The bust point keeps getting closer and closer to the waist as the sizes go up. As previously mentioned, there is no length grade below the armhole level. This could be a pattern for one person over time. They stay the same height and as they gain weight over the years, their bust point keeps dropping. I can relate!

By: Donna Sebastian

Donna Sebastian — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 14:08:02 +0000

I agree with what has been said. Double notch. Curve in upper neck to match body contour. My eye sight can’t pick up if neck isn’t squared, but it should be. Not sure about length issue. My drafting instructor used to curve all her garments in back for a better fit.

By: Valerie Burner

Valerie Burner — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 12:32:25 +0000

Like you say in the book, if the CB point isn’t sitting on the neck properly, the entire jacket will not fit correctly. That is the most important point in the fitting of the jacket, and I agree that the CB at the neck point should be curving in toward the neck, rather than out like it is. If it is constructed like this, the shoulders will pull toward the back, the front will pull up and be too short, it won’t be comfortable, and will it hang smoothly.

By: Emma A

Emma A — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 07:53:36 +0000

As C. Rica says, totaly ok to shape CB line…but don’t shape it like that! It will not follw (a normal) body shape and the CB neck is not straight angled, which will give the neck line a pointy shape.

The grading of the scy is also wrong. The arm hole is growing very much and side lengt decreases in the bigger sizes. The neck hole might be too big in the bigger sizes also, or is it only the back lengt grading missing? Would need to see exact numbers… Funny nest however.

By: Janet Littlecrow

Janet Littlecrow — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 04:55:23 +0000

I agree with Oliviacw. For the most part, the people I sew for are proportionally taller as they get larger. Large people can reasonably hold more weight than smaller framed people.

I don’t know if that holds true for the general population though. Most of the people I sew for have substantial Native American ancestry, and most of the tribes from reservations around our area of Oklahoma are tend to have larger frames than non-Indians.

By: Malissa

Malissa — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 04:42:31 +0000

I agree with Heather.