Pop Quiz: Grading necklines
This amounts to an informal survey, it would be great if you could provide a bit of insight.
I had a conversation last week with someone who wanted to know why we grade necklines like we do -this refers to adult apparel. I’ll number these so you can respond easier.
1. When we use a 1″ grade, we typically grade the neckline a total of 1/2″. Do you or don’t you?
2. However, when we grade with a 2″ grade, informal feedback says we grade the neckline only 3/4″. Do you or don’t you?
3. With respect to #2, why aren’t we grading the neckline a full inch? If a 1″ grade takes a half inch increase in the neck, it only stands to reason that a 2″ grade would be double that.
I asked this of two grading friends, both concurred with #1 and #2 but were stumped and not able to explain their reasoning (#3). It doesn’t make sense on the face of it. Ideas?
All I can say is I’m beginning to understand why beginners have trouble understanding grading. It would seem we change the rules depending on the phase of the moon. In the particular book the person asked me about, I’d penciled in my own grade for those specific moves because I don’t use the one from the book. I’ll bet that is common enough. Let’s call that #4 so you can weigh in on it too.
Not long ago, a dear friend chastised me for grading a neckline 3/4″ for a 2″ grade. She said it should only have been 1/2″. I noted her objection and resolved to think about it later (but I continued with my grade as is). She has more experience than I do in grading so she either knows better than I do -an entirely likely scenario- or she didn’t realize it was a 2″ grade. I tried to call her for clarification but she wasn’t in.