Comments on: Pop quiz #464 pt.3

By: Sandra B

Sandra B — Thu, 02 Aug 2007 07:37:34 +0000

In my early career I worked for one of Australia’s largest childrenswear companies as pattern grader. I knew virtually nothing, but as I gradually came to learn, my immediate superior knew less, and felt threatened by me. I was told to grade from the neck point, and I think my lengths had the same error as these examples. But even better, I had to grade a nest on paper without seam allowances, trace each pattern onto card with a tracing wheel, add seam allowances, and cut them using a stanley knife. When I had done all 6 sizes, my boss would check them thoroughly. If there was a 1mm error anywhere, I was hauled over the coals. (while she smiled her sweet smile and made sure I knew that I was really not very clever) (I’m actually at the far end of the IQ bell curve, but my social IQ back then was probably 90 and falling) I had to mark my grading rule with tippex so she measured using the same end I did as the ruler was slightly warped. It took 8 hours to complete a pattern set, working as fast as I could. I estimated once how much company money she wasted. It was about 3 times my annual salary. I was eventually replaced by the CAD system I was the only person trained to use. 20 years later I still start shaking when I think of the experience, and I’m pretty sure the trauma affected my long term career, because I only ever applied for jobs well below my capabilities after that and every promotion came as a surprise.

Strangely, I don’t hate grading itself, although I still feel I don’t know how to grade properly. I have the Cooklin book, and now understand the concepts, but can’t follow his method when it comes to grading the bust dart take-up, and most methods just keep the dart take-up the same, which seems less accurate to me. I guess I’ll just have to splurge on the Handford book, and see how I go.

By: Lisa Bloodgood

Lisa Bloodgood — Thu, 02 Aug 2007 00:05:38 +0000

I actually put my flexible ruler up to both nests and measured the necklines. The necklines in 1 were all the same and in 2 they were different, accommodating each size. I’m not anywhere even close to being an expert at grading, but 1 did look weird having the grade point at CF neck. Thanks for clearing some of this up. :-)

By: Amitai

Amitai — Wed, 01 Aug 2007 22:27:25 +0000

Esther, Kathleen and me had a discussion about this stacking and baseline issue, and I think your comment concludes best what was the source of our 'miscommunication'. Working in CAD is based on manual working, however it also allows different approaches, which are too complicated to calculate manually, but are done easily (or easier) on computers.

By: Esther

Esther — Wed, 01 Aug 2007 18:50:23 +0000

I have found that grading manually (pencil and paper) nest #2 is easier. CAD changes the traditional method because you have to select a starting grade point and work counter-clockwise around a piece. So for me, picking a point such as the CF or CB neck makes it easier. CAD programs vary in how grading is set-up and some are easier than others. Still, I move my stack point around depending on the piece and to check grades. I probably rely too heavily on a ruler and measurement charts instead of just looking at a nest and synthesizing what I see.

For what it’s worth, I have been working through the Handford book, following his method and I have been learning a lot about grading. Perhaps there is too heavy a reliance on CAD by new graders. It may be worth the sweat and effort to do it the traditional way so that grading principles are internalized better.

By: Heather

Heather — Wed, 01 Aug 2007 17:46:47 +0000

I’ve had this and other grading books for almost 20 years and every time I sit and take a look it baffles me. Can’t make head or tail out of it. So, for me at least, patternmaking is easier. Need to have a go at them one more time….maybe just need to have a pattern to grade while reading and following the instructions instead of trying to understand the ‘dry’ theory.