Comments on: Pop Quiz #477: Why the shirt fits badly

By: Leslie

Leslie — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 23:12:37 +0000

Speaking from a large-busted-women’s viewpoint, if the yoke seam ran right across the bust point I wouldn’t wear it. It would be like wearing a sign that said “look at me”. I personally liked the length of the yoke; too bad it was poorly drafted and mass marketed.

For the large-of-bust, the yoke seam would be more flattering either above, or, under the bust (as in an empire waistline). I am glad Kathleen noted the overlap/addition for the fuller cup.

This post is extremely interesting and helpful to me. Thanks a bunch Kathleen!

By: Karen C

Karen C — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 18:43:55 +0000

Oh, yeah, I didn’t have time to comment, but I correctly diagnosed the problem. Does this mean I can market my patterns and call myself an expert? LOL

By: J C Sprowls

J C Sprowls — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 16:27:01 +0000

The same visual principle applies to men’s shirts, too. The back yoke does curve up, slightly, at the sceye seam to give the illusion of a straight line when on the body.

But, much like Kathleen’s example for the bust (which is just a really, really exaggerated shoulder blade if you think about it), there’s a dart concealed in that seam.

Take care of the function, first, then style the form. We all have numbers we like to start with when drafting the first pattern. But, it changes during fitting.

By: dosfashionistas

dosfashionistas — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 16:05:18 +0000

As a side comment; I was taught that even a high yoke that is not being used to fit the bust requires a half inch rise between the center and the armhole to appear straight to the eye. This is because it is curving around the body. A totally straight yoke will appear to drop at the side. I find this to be true in my experience for women’s clothing, I have never checked it out on a man’s pattern.

Sarah

By: Liron

Liron — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 15:16:09 +0000

Thank you so much for this tutorial. The part about accommodating the pattern if you do want the seam line to be higher is so clever. Do you know from just measuring the person how much to overlap and how far down to add below the bust?

When are you writing a pattern making book?
I hope you do.

By: ioanna

ioanna — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 08:42:28 +0000

clap clap clap (applause)
I love these patternmaking tutorials. They are so clear it’s like a light bulb goes off every time I read one They’re perfect!
(Now I’m holding up one of those number signs like they do in figure skating, hee hee)