So sorry it took so long to get back to you. Ultimatley, the best way to do this is to pay the model and get a model release signed that states the usage of the photos. If an agency agrees to let a model test with you, you really are limited in what you can do with those photos. Agencies don’t agree to tests often, but when they do, it’s usually because a known reputable photographer wants to shoot some amazing shots that the model would benefit from( having the shot in their book or portfolio). Then, the photographer uses the shots to promote him/herself and so does the model. Not one can use the image for publication. As far as castings, there is no extra charge for casings. You can call the agency for a casting any time. If a model is already booked on a job, of course they won’t make the casting…whether you call a week or a day in advance. Paying jobs always take priority. Don’t be afraid to call and speak to the agency. Be honest with them and see what they can do:)

Thank you so much for your reply.
Hope you do not mind a few more questions in response to your answer?
Do you normally have to pay a separate fee to have the models attend a casting/go-see?
How far in advance would you book the casting/go-see, and contact the modeling agency?
To clarify, if using a ‘new face’ for a free test shoot (as described by you above), is the client (designer/manufacturer) allowed to use these shots commercially, i.e. for their lookbook/website/promo material? What if press requests to use these pictures in their publications?

As you can probably tell from my questions I have a limited budget to work with, but I do not want to cut corners just for the sake of it. I want to make sure that I end up with a professional set of photographs that I can use for promo and press, at a reasonable cost.
Thanks again!

I work with Mark Bonanno as his fashion stylist. I am the one who books the models for our fashion shoots. There are quite a few great modeling agencies on Miami Beach. If you are a paying client, the agencies will bend over backwards to find the exact look you need. For example, you could request to see composites on all blondes in the low 20’s and they will be e-mailed to you. You could then set up a casting or “go see” and see the ones that you are interested in and review their portfolios. This is the time to see their personalities come out too. That’s actually very important. New faces can be risky. We have had some amazing new models and some that were not comfortable in front of the camera yet. You take your chances. Look at their portfolio shots and see what you think about their body language, expressions, etc. Sometimes, agencies have very new models that don’t have a portfolio yet. They may be willing to do a test with an up and coming fashion photographer. It’s like a barter. The photographer takes the fashion shots and in return, the model gets pictures from it. That photographer cannot sell the pictures. It’s only for self promotion, to build the photographer and model’s portfolios. The agency has to really know the photographer, their work and reputation in order to agree to this. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the post, there are so many variables that determine the time it takes for a shot. Some advertising photographers will take 10 or 12 hours to do one shot. This would be a shot for magazine ads were every detail has to be perfect. It may include multiple lights and large amounts of props. Editorial photographers may do 20 or 25 shots in a day. This could be a day at the beach where the photographer is just using available light and the styling is very “loose”. The best thing to do is to have a meeting with the photographer and work out the details before hand so you both know what the expectations will be before you start. Take a look at the photographers at http://www.quadphoto.com and view their portfolios and you will see all the different styles and types of shots and you can see some shots are simple and others required a lot of time and thought.

I have actually worked with several really good photographers from that site, and I tend to be pretty prepared and organized and will make it aware what should be available for the general comfort and flow of the shoot, especially if it appears that some elements may be overlooked.

For all , particularly any up-and-comers in their respective areas, accurate credit listing is very important, and is the least in a show of respect for all who participate. Good communication is at the core of getting satisfying results.

Best regards,
Camille