OK, it looks great, but I think a single layer would probably look good enough, at least it’d be worth testing. Maybe use that ‘piping’ turquoise color in topstitching so a single-layer looks more complex?

About marking black: I use a Japanese wheel with yellow chalk powder (Clover I believe). As fast as a pen, very fine, totally stands out. In a pinch, I’ve used a sliver of soap, a bit harder to maneuver and less durable but still perfectly serviceable. I like your silver pen, but fear it’s permanent which you may not like everywhere.

Embroidery (Sulky, 505) adhesive can gum up a needle over time unless you use a titanium coated needle. You probably already knew that. It doesn’t give a strong enough bond to suit me when I do mach. embr., but you probably have access to better industrial type stuff.

If this was my project , I would use something like Steam-a-Seam Lite http://www.warmcompany.com/lsaspage.html for all the appliqué layers. You mark the backing paper with the shape after fusing, peel the paper away after it cools, and cut the shape out. It’s very lightweight and flexible, but gets the job done enough to hold it in place for the stitching. I use it often in garment construction and love it.

Another product to consider (if the concept appeals) is Misty Fuse ( http://www.mistyfuse.com/ ) although it appears to have no backing paper. Quilters like it for machine appliqué but I have not personally used it.

For marking, have you considered the Sulky Transfer Pen? ( http://www.sulky.com/transferpens/index_pens.php ) I used it for a quilting project, when I needed to draw a certain shape over and over – which would have driven me mad – and this worked really well for me.

Hope this helps. Thank you for continuing to share your blog with us.

This other photo shows the contrasting facing from inside the bag (strap flopped over). The facing is the light green leather. I think it’ll look nice when it’s done.

As to marking the black, why not just avoid it if it is a problem? Could you CUT the black interfacing with a seam allowance that matches the pressure foot you are using. Adhere it and stitch using the edge of the foot as the guide. That way, you have your marking, but have not lost time on the marking, although you will be cutting twice. Always a trade-off.

I had luck marking fabric cutting lines with- don’t laugh- a white out pen. They now have very good control with the pen points, if you keep the dried material cleaned off and keep them moving. On leather, where there is no danger of bleed through, it might work for a stitching line on the back of an interfaced piece.

Spray the adhesive on using a template to cover the area you do not want sprayed.

Good luck.

I would also love something not quite so expensive, to own.

I would use a single or custom pair of leather stamps ( Harper Manufacturing offers custom steel stamps). Paint on leather dye in 2 or more colors, blushed with some of the ‘pearlized’ paints such as Peal Ex pigments from Jacquard Products available in art supply stores. Using a paint by number cartoon (pattern), almost any unskilled worker could apply. Result would provide dimension, color and design definition all on the body of the bag. Less allocation of leather-, a couple of taps and minimal brush strokes to apply the dye. Considering added dry time and even handling again for a blush of pearl powder should shorten the per bag assembly time and real cost.

Kaaren