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	<title>Comments on: Reverse engineering standard work pt.1</title>
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	<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt1/</link>
	<description>How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better.</description>
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		<title>By: mc</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt1/comment-page-1/#comment-2067</link>
		<dc:creator>mc</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 17 Feb 2008 05:58:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/02/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt1/#comment-2067</guid>
		<description>This is very informative, thanks. I&#039;m going to email this entry, and probably a million others, to myself for future reference.  On to part II...
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is very informative, thanks. I&#8217;m going to email this entry, and probably a million others, to myself for future reference.  On to part II&#8230;</p>
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		<title>By: Sarah Fosdick</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt1/comment-page-1/#comment-2066</link>
		<dc:creator>Sarah Fosdick</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 26 Aug 2006 03:58:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/02/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt1/#comment-2066</guid>
		<description>I spent several days in a custom shirtmaker&#039;s shop a few years ago watching and learning how the shirts are cut and put together.  It was a great experience and everyone I met was enthusiastic to have me there.  I totally recommend visiting a shirtmaker if you get a chance.  It seemed that they were happy to have someone appreciate their craft, and I learned a lot.  After studying there I am happy to say I went home and made a shirt for myself, which was part of a fashion school project.  My biggest problem in creating the crisp look of a good custom shirt was fusing the collar and cuffs.  The shirtmaker had a machine that heated the fusing and the self fabric to just the right temp for just the right time to get a really crisp look, which I just couldn&#039;t replicate at home.

As far as the sleeve placket, they didn&#039;t have an automated machine for that, they just cut the piece and folded them on as they went.  They are topstitched in place and the operators know the standard seam allowance so they know where to fold them. Ditto for the collar stand.

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		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I spent several days in a custom shirtmaker&#8217;s shop a few years ago watching and learning how the shirts are cut and put together.  It was a great experience and everyone I met was enthusiastic to have me there.  I totally recommend visiting a shirtmaker if you get a chance.  It seemed that they were happy to have someone appreciate their craft, and I learned a lot.  After studying there I am happy to say I went home and made a shirt for myself, which was part of a fashion school project.  My biggest problem in creating the crisp look of a good custom shirt was fusing the collar and cuffs.  The shirtmaker had a machine that heated the fusing and the self fabric to just the right temp for just the right time to get a really crisp look, which I just couldn&#8217;t replicate at home.</p>
<p>As far as the sleeve placket, they didn&#8217;t have an automated machine for that, they just cut the piece and folded them on as they went.  They are topstitched in place and the operators know the standard seam allowance so they know where to fold them. Ditto for the collar stand.</p>
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		<title>By: Michael</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt1/comment-page-1/#comment-2065</link>
		<dc:creator>Michael</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Feb 2006 00:27:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/02/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt1/#comment-2065</guid>
		<description>If I can&#039;t co-opt &quot;couture&quot; or &quot;industrial sewing&quot; maybe I can call myself &quot;amateur sweatshop labor&quot; ;-)
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If I can&#8217;t co-opt &#8220;couture&#8221; or &#8220;industrial sewing&#8221; maybe I can call myself &#8220;amateur sweatshop labor&#8221; <img src='http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif' alt=';-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>By: Gigi</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt1/comment-page-1/#comment-2064</link>
		<dc:creator>Gigi</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Feb 2006 14:53:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/02/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt1/#comment-2064</guid>
		<description>Kathleen, I can&#039;t wait to see the photos!  I am always on the lookout for ways to improve my shirtmaking.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kathleen, I can&#8217;t wait to see the photos!  I am always on the lookout for ways to improve my shirtmaking.</p>
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		<title>By: Jess Latham</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt1/comment-page-1/#comment-2063</link>
		<dc:creator>Jess Latham</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 14 Feb 2006 22:09:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/02/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt1/#comment-2063</guid>
		<description>I actually made the welt jig from thin brass sheeting for the center part. I&#039;m thinking of somehow eliminating the paper that wraps around the center part by placing it on a wood block and having the center attached by some method I haven&#039;t figured out yet. Does the paper have to wrap around with the fabric or could the fabric alone be wrapped and ironed?
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		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I actually made the welt jig from thin brass sheeting for the center part. I&#8217;m thinking of somehow eliminating the paper that wraps around the center part by placing it on a wood block and having the center attached by some method I haven&#8217;t figured out yet. Does the paper have to wrap around with the fabric or could the fabric alone be wrapped and ironed?</p>
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