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	<title>Comments on: Reverse engineering standard work pt.8</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/</link>
	<description>How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better.</description>
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		<title>By: Quality Control and SOW pt.2</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/comment-page-1/#comment-18641</link>
		<dc:creator>Quality Control and SOW pt.2</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 Oct 2009 23:00:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/03/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/#comment-18641</guid>
		<description>[...] to our subject matter (part one, part two), how do you sample a lot for testing? What is sampling a lot? How do you know the whole [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] to our subject matter (part one, part two), how do you sample a lot for testing? What is sampling a lot? How do you know the whole [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Deena</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/comment-page-1/#comment-2351</link>
		<dc:creator>Deena</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 25 Mar 2006 18:51:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/03/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/#comment-2351</guid>
		<description>First, I also prewash any fabrics for garments that will be washed after they are made.  I try to make all my garments to be washable.

Secondly - button placement on Ladies&#039; blouses.
I place one buttonhole at the top where it will close the collar around the neck.  This one is horizontal. I place one buttonhole at the widest part of the bust (I am very ample in this area), which seems to prevent gaping of the blouse.  I then place the other buttonholes in a way that is pleasing to the eye.  I actually lay out the buttons on the fabric to see the effect clearly.

I do mark the buttonholes, make them and then mark the button placement by marking through the buttonholes.  It is a fantastic way to make sure the buttons line up where they are supposed to.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>First, I also prewash any fabrics for garments that will be washed after they are made.  I try to make all my garments to be washable.</p>
<p>Secondly &#8211; button placement on Ladies&#8217; blouses.<br />
I place one buttonhole at the top where it will close the collar around the neck.  This one is horizontal. I place one buttonhole at the widest part of the bust (I am very ample in this area), which seems to prevent gaping of the blouse.  I then place the other buttonholes in a way that is pleasing to the eye.  I actually lay out the buttons on the fabric to see the effect clearly.</p>
<p>I do mark the buttonholes, make them and then mark the button placement by marking through the buttonholes.  It is a fantastic way to make sure the buttons line up where they are supposed to.</p>
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		<title>By: La BellaDonna</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/comment-page-1/#comment-2350</link>
		<dc:creator>La BellaDonna</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 Mar 2006 17:36:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/03/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/#comment-2350</guid>
		<description>For me, at least, the basics are never boring.  I&#039;m never going to get bored learning how to do something better - which is why I come here, after all.

I have a couple of questions: for those of us who preshrink our fabrics (I would be one), does the &quot;wash the garment first&quot; still apply?  The patterns I make are sized to fit on fabric that&#039;s been prewashed for, hopefully, maximum shrinkage, so that the garment won&#039;t shrink (I lack the ability to figure out how to size a garment for shrinkage after it&#039;s made).

Second, is there a magic for figuring out how far apart and how many buttons there should be, or is it the designer&#039;s preference?  I usually figure a half-inch down from the finished edge of the top of the garment for the first buttonhole, and It Depends for the bottom buttonhole, then split the distance between the buttonholes in order to space them evenly (and marked the button placement after the buttonholes were made).  If there&#039;s a better way, I&#039;d be happy to learn that, especially since I use the same method for spacing grommets (yes, I have figured out that I can use the Buttonhole Template Method for a Grommet Template, so that&#039;s very useful, too).

And Josh: a number of books suggest steaming fabrics that won&#039;t be washed in order to pre-shrink them (wools, certain interfacings, etc.)  Steaming is often used to shape garment pieces, too, by controlled shrinkage (one of the principles of tailoring).

</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For me, at least, the basics are never boring.  I&#8217;m never going to get bored learning how to do something better &#8211; which is why I come here, after all.</p>
<p>I have a couple of questions: for those of us who preshrink our fabrics (I would be one), does the &#8220;wash the garment first&#8221; still apply?  The patterns I make are sized to fit on fabric that&#8217;s been prewashed for, hopefully, maximum shrinkage, so that the garment won&#8217;t shrink (I lack the ability to figure out how to size a garment for shrinkage after it&#8217;s made).</p>
<p>Second, is there a magic for figuring out how far apart and how many buttons there should be, or is it the designer&#8217;s preference?  I usually figure a half-inch down from the finished edge of the top of the garment for the first buttonhole, and It Depends for the bottom buttonhole, then split the distance between the buttonholes in order to space them evenly (and marked the button placement after the buttonholes were made).  If there&#8217;s a better way, I&#8217;d be happy to learn that, especially since I use the same method for spacing grommets (yes, I have figured out that I can use the Buttonhole Template Method for a Grommet Template, so that&#8217;s very useful, too).</p>
<p>And Josh: a number of books suggest steaming fabrics that won&#8217;t be washed in order to pre-shrink them (wools, certain interfacings, etc.)  Steaming is often used to shape garment pieces, too, by controlled shrinkage (one of the principles of tailoring).</p>
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		<title>By: Esther</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/comment-page-1/#comment-2349</link>
		<dc:creator>Esther</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 Mar 2006 14:07:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/03/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/#comment-2349</guid>
		<description>This may sound dumb. As a technical designer, I never made a buttonhole guide. I felt there were too many variables. When my dresses arrived at the buttonholer, the sewers had a method to make sure the buttonholes were placed in the correct place. Then the garment was turned out, the backs lined up so the buttonholes would show the button location, and the buttons tacked on. Since I made girl&#039;s dresses, there never was much of an issue. I suppose with men&#039;s dress shirts it would be a different story.

Now I learn that there is a way to make buttonhole templates. I will have to try this.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This may sound dumb. As a technical designer, I never made a buttonhole guide. I felt there were too many variables. When my dresses arrived at the buttonholer, the sewers had a method to make sure the buttonholes were placed in the correct place. Then the garment was turned out, the backs lined up so the buttonholes would show the button location, and the buttons tacked on. Since I made girl&#8217;s dresses, there never was much of an issue. I suppose with men&#8217;s dress shirts it would be a different story.</p>
<p>Now I learn that there is a way to make buttonhole templates. I will have to try this.</p>
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		<title>By: Josh</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/comment-page-1/#comment-2348</link>
		<dc:creator>Josh</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Mar 2006 16:49:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/03/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/#comment-2348</guid>
		<description>hmmm, I think I&#039;ll do some tests myself. Make 1 shirt and do nothing, then wash it. Make another washed and then the buttons placed on it. And then another that is steamed and then the buttons placed and see what the difference is.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hmmm, I think I&#8217;ll do some tests myself. Make 1 shirt and do nothing, then wash it. Make another washed and then the buttons placed on it. And then another that is steamed and then the buttons placed and see what the difference is.</p>
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		<title>By: Freda</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/comment-page-1/#comment-2347</link>
		<dc:creator>Freda</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Mar 2006 12:09:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/03/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/#comment-2347</guid>
		<description>For Josh - Yes, hot steaming can cause shrinkage - probably not as much as washing and drying.  Shrinkage can even be caused by the wearer of a garment being very hot and sweaty.  Lesson learned - preshrink underlining before constructing man&#039;s ballet jacket if you don&#039;t want to see it wrinkle and pucker before your very eyes!!
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For Josh &#8211; Yes, hot steaming can cause shrinkage &#8211; probably not as much as washing and drying.  Shrinkage can even be caused by the wearer of a garment being very hot and sweaty.  Lesson learned &#8211; preshrink underlining before constructing man&#8217;s ballet jacket if you don&#8217;t want to see it wrinkle and pucker before your very eyes!!</p>
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		<title>By: Julia</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/comment-page-1/#comment-2346</link>
		<dc:creator>Julia</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Mar 2006 10:12:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/03/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/#comment-2346</guid>
		<description>Home sewers usually preshrink fabric before cutting. I was quite surprised to see that the factory method of marking button placement was exactly what Mother taught me over 55 years ago. And she  never worked in an industrial sewing environment. I&#039;m looking forward to the part on buttonhole placement.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Home sewers usually preshrink fabric before cutting. I was quite surprised to see that the factory method of marking button placement was exactly what Mother taught me over 55 years ago. And she  never worked in an industrial sewing environment. I&#8217;m looking forward to the part on buttonhole placement.</p>
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		<title>By: hjmauck</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/comment-page-1/#comment-2345</link>
		<dc:creator>hjmauck</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Mar 2006 06:41:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/03/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/#comment-2345</guid>
		<description>Thanks!
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks!</p>
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		<title>By: Josh</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/comment-page-1/#comment-2344</link>
		<dc:creator>Josh</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Mar 2006 23:00:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/03/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/#comment-2344</guid>
		<description>Questions, and this may be a really stupid one here. But I&#039;m gonna ask it anyways. Can a hot steaming cause shrinkage in a garment? The same kind that a regular washing and drying can cause?
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Questions, and this may be a really stupid one here. But I&#8217;m gonna ask it anyways. Can a hot steaming cause shrinkage in a garment? The same kind that a regular washing and drying can cause?</p>
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		<title>By: Josh</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/comment-page-1/#comment-2343</link>
		<dc:creator>Josh</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Mar 2006 22:54:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2006/03/reverse_engineering_standard_work_pt8/#comment-2343</guid>
		<description>This is almost shocking to me. To think something has to be washed and dried before it&#039;s finished. This never occured to me.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is almost shocking to me. To think something has to be washed and dried before it&#8217;s finished. This never occured to me.</p>
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