How do you store oaktag pattern pieces? I assume they don’t fold well, so you probably have specialized storage for them.

You’re right, we have super duper highly specialized storage units called “clothing rods”.

Okay so I’m being silly, shoot me. Seriously, we punch holes in our patterns and hang them with pattern hooks. You can find pictures of both here. Since your patterns are small, you could rig up something simple (like a string maybe) and hang them on an oversized nail if you don’t have a rod in your workspace.

Since your pattern pieces are small and if you don’t use much, you probably don’t need to buy a roll of oaktag unless you knew someone who wanted to split it with you. You can use manila folders instead, it is the same paper only not quite as heavy. For patterns that will get a lot of use, spray glue two layers of folder together. Also, you probably shouldn’t trace and cut from what you have now. Re-draw all straight lines with a ruler to keep the pattern lines true.

If you haven’t already seen it, this other post on tools and supplies will be helpful.

This is for anyone else who has a lot of patterns: clothing rods are too weak to hold many patterns. Some people use mobile clothing racks but if you get the kind sold to consumers, these are kind of crappy and comparatively expensive. I use Z-racks. The photo on that page shows a fancy one but the ones on Amazon are probably fine for most people and they cost the same or less than the consumer type units.

Most of my pattern pieces are fairly small, so I keep each set in a 9×12 plastic bag in a file. How do you store oaktag pattern pieces? I assume they don’t fold well, so you probably have specialized storage for them. All my patterns are in an open rolling filling thingy. If the house catches fire, it’s going with me. There is so much information here that I could use, I’m thankful that I found you.

I also specialize in leather products however, I would strongly discourage anyone (beyond a one man shop) from using plastic instead of oaktag. The reasons are posted here in the forum. It is too lengthy to repost beyond this (edited):

Biggest problem is writing bleed through from the other side (most plastic is clear or opaque). You want people to be able to lay these out quickly without having to read the pieces. In the case of one-per lay ups, you know you have the oaktag piece wrong side up because there’s a big X on that side (or should be). If there’s bleed through (plastic), it takes time to sort front from back writing. That’s assuming the fabric isn’t so dark you can even read the writing on them. If the plastic is clear, it’s hard to see notches to mark them. When these are hung, you likewise can’t read what each piece is unless you lay them separately. On oak tag (no bleed through) it’s easy. Plastic also breaks and one cannot know the piece is broken because it’s a clean break. If the pattern is paper, you can see the tell tale signs of a tear or bumped corner and go back to the original to repair the piece.

The operations I’ve seen that use plastic, usually have a great many other problems, this being but one of the symptoms.

There are very rare exceptions to needing plastic to resolve the problem, I’ve run into it exactly once and it wasn’t on leather but custom loosely woven blankets used to make coats; the weave wasn’t tight.

When people use plastic to solve a problem, it usually means their process is not whole, it’s a work around instead of solving the root problem. In the end, manufacturers are cheap skates. If it were more cost effective to use plastic, they’d be doing it. Using plastic in small operations is very common but if they survive (having other problems, this being but one symptom), they go on to using oaktag. Lucia, I intend no discourtesy but I hope no one (who plans to grow their operation) follows this advice.

Answering Cindy’s question from before that I didn’t notice until now, items 1-3 are on target.

4. Using scissors, cut on the tracing line.

#4, do not cut on the tracing line. It should be cut away.

Question:
1. I’m assuming this means you wouldn’t cut out two pieces at once….(one on top of the other…)
2. Cutting ‘on the fold’ has always given me fits, I try to iron my folds down hard, but still I can never get the pattern pinned exactly on the fold consistently. I’m thinking it’s better to make a full pattern and ditch the fold?

Yes, we cut each piece separately. We don’t cut “on the fold”. Even making a mirrored pattern piece using folded paper is not as precise (as we’re taught in school) so a loose medium like fabric can only be even less precise. The problem for enthusiasts being table width… you do the best you can.

3. What does DE mean?

Designer-Entrepreneur

The rest we cut with scissors:we trace the pattern on the leather first, with a special leather pen, then cut. Patterns that are used all the time are newly cut in plastic which is more durable.

The whole process takes a lot of time since it´s very hand crafted but the results are quite nice.

I hope i have it right!

(First time commenting but long time reader)

Lucia
Spain

I see the value in tracing the pattern on the fabric, but I’ve also wondered about the accuracy of tracing. I guess that it is better if using oaktag than paper. I only do slopers in oaktag.

I’m totally a craft sewer, mostly handbags and have only been sewing for about a year. I’ve struggled with cutting out pattern pieces, I never get them even and consistent. Let me see if I’ve got the process correct:
1. Cut the shape of your pattern. Cut just inside the dark edge (basically shouldn’t be any dark outside lines remaining.
2. Place this pattern on your fabric. Don’t pin it down, but weight it down with some kind of weights.
3. Using a chalk pencil, or wax pencil, or medium of choice…trace the shape directly onto your fabric. When tracing, try to run your pencil along the edge of the pattern and the fabric at the same time.
4. Using scissors, cut on the tracing line.

Question:
1. I’m assuming this means you wouldn’t cut out two pieces at once….(one on top of the other…)
2. Cutting ‘on the fold’ has always given me
fits, I try to iron my folds down hard, but still I can never get the pattern pinned exactly on the fold consistently. I’m thinking it’s better to make a full pattern and ditch the fold?
3. What does DE mean?

Thanks, this is fun!
Cindy