Sample cutting and sewing costs pt.2

Following up from yesterday’s entry, I made several markers (see What is a marker? if you have no idea what they are) to compare efficiency for double and single folded lays. For both lays I used the same fabric width of 58″. The single ply area was of course, 58″, while the double ply layout was based on a 29″ width.

The double folded lay came out like so:

The single ply layout looks like this (clicking on either image will get you a larger image file):

As you can see, my claim that efficiency would be improved by 15% was unfounded -at best considering the scant 3% improvement (in larger companies, one could get a bonus for a 3% improvement!). However -and that’s a big however- in the single ply lay, there is a block of unused fabric that measures approximately 15″x15″ that would normally be taken up by the next repeat (size) in a production lay which would actually increase the efficiency. I’d have to make another marker with however many sizes to know with any certainty but I would guess -caveat considering how that’s been working out- that perhaps as many as five repeats could be lain in the space of four or at least six in the space of five which could increase efficiency by about 15%. By the same token, similar savings could not be possible for the folded lay. Long story short, doing the single ply still represents significant savings as a production yield pre-test and well worth the investment of time to do it.

Switching gears, I meant to explain two other reasons why sample cutting can cost more than one would hope. The first is that we cut more pieces than one would at home (nice RTW has lots of guts) and also, it depends on the provider’s infrastructure…

It was at this point that this entry became quite lengthy and since it diverges from yesterday’s follow up, I decided to post it as part three for tomorrow. There will probably be two posts tomorrow because I had to write a separate post as an aside to part three. The former will be about fusing maps. I’ll bet you’re shivering all over with anticipation to read that one. Be still your beating heart, tomorrow will come soon enough.

But anyway, feel free to post comments or questions on this follow up. Thanks!

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