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	<title>Comments on: Schmatta: Rags To Riches To Rags pt.2</title>
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	<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/schmatta-rags-to-riches-to-rags-pt-2/</link>
	<description>How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better.</description>
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		<title>By: What is Reshoring -circuitously</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/schmatta-rags-to-riches-to-rags-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-22072</link>
		<dc:creator>What is Reshoring -circuitously</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Mar 2010 17:35:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5126#comment-22072</guid>
		<description>[...] some practices used by larger firms that act to their detriment. As I mentioned in comments in this entry, I prefer businesses by size depending on the [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] some practices used by larger firms that act to their detriment. As I mentioned in comments in this entry, I prefer businesses by size depending on the [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Lisa Bloodgood</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/schmatta-rags-to-riches-to-rags-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-19147</link>
		<dc:creator>Lisa Bloodgood</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 07:00:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5126#comment-19147</guid>
		<description>About Germany, my favorite manual pencil sharpener is from there.

About design detail, maybe this is why I like vintage clothing and stuff older than that.  Most of today&#039;s stuff is too simple.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>About Germany, my favorite manual pencil sharpener is from there.</p>
<p>About design detail, maybe this is why I like vintage clothing and stuff older than that.  Most of today&#8217;s stuff is too simple.</p>
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		<title>By: Renee</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/schmatta-rags-to-riches-to-rags-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-19036</link>
		<dc:creator>Renee</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 25 Oct 2009 14:24:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5126#comment-19036</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m not convinced that four weeks on the water is the only advantage. At least in some sewn-goods niches &quot;made in the USA&quot; can still provide a benefit to sales conversions, or at least I receive email from customers and prospective wholesale partners to that effect. Oh, and from my aunts. Is it a generational thing? Certainly plays to the conservation-minded consumer who wants to buy organic cotton, hemp and recycled polyester as well.

In some cases where many of the materials inputs do, in fact, come from here, it seems the cost of shipping to another country would cancel out the savings in manufacturing labor.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m not convinced that four weeks on the water is the only advantage. At least in some sewn-goods niches &#8220;made in the USA&#8221; can still provide a benefit to sales conversions, or at least I receive email from customers and prospective wholesale partners to that effect. Oh, and from my aunts. Is it a generational thing? Certainly plays to the conservation-minded consumer who wants to buy organic cotton, hemp and recycled polyester as well.</p>
<p>In some cases where many of the materials inputs do, in fact, come from here, it seems the cost of shipping to another country would cancel out the savings in manufacturing labor.</p>
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		<title>By: Solongo</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/schmatta-rags-to-riches-to-rags-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-19020</link>
		<dc:creator>Solongo</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 25 Oct 2009 01:40:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5126#comment-19020</guid>
		<description>I am wondering how all this economic downturn will affect aspiring designers, patternmakers and other supportive jobs when companies are not hiring or simply don&#039;t have a job opening available. What can recent graduates and students do to still gain experience from the industry?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am wondering how all this economic downturn will affect aspiring designers, patternmakers and other supportive jobs when companies are not hiring or simply don&#8217;t have a job opening available. What can recent graduates and students do to still gain experience from the industry?</p>
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		<title>By: Arnikka</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/schmatta-rags-to-riches-to-rags-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-18972</link>
		<dc:creator>Arnikka</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 24 Oct 2009 01:51:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5126#comment-18972</guid>
		<description>Wow--once again truly insightful.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Wow&#8211;once again truly insightful.</p>
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		<title>By: Thomas Cunningham</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/schmatta-rags-to-riches-to-rags-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-18969</link>
		<dc:creator>Thomas Cunningham</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 24 Oct 2009 00:35:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5126#comment-18969</guid>
		<description>&quot;Your only advantage is four weeks on the water. Don’t forget it.&quot;

I haven&#039;t read through the comments, only your post, but that last sentence (don&#039;t know if you coined it, Kathleen) is the tightest, sharpest and best piece of advice any domestic DE could ever hear. I am going to post that on the bulletin board in front of my desk, dead center, so I see it all day every day. And I am not kidding.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&#8220;Your only advantage is four weeks on the water. Don’t forget it.&#8221;</p>
<p>I haven&#8217;t read through the comments, only your post, but that last sentence (don&#8217;t know if you coined it, Kathleen) is the tightest, sharpest and best piece of advice any domestic DE could ever hear. I am going to post that on the bulletin board in front of my desk, dead center, so I see it all day every day. And I am not kidding.</p>
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		<title>By: Miracle</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/schmatta-rags-to-riches-to-rags-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-18922</link>
		<dc:creator>Miracle</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Oct 2009 01:54:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5126#comment-18922</guid>
		<description>&lt;i&gt;I prefer small businesses in several respects. For one, they employ more people than large ones. Second, dividing head count by total sales, they’re more profitable. &lt;/i&gt;

It&#039;s very true when you go by the SBA&#039;s definition of small business-- however, one really huge area for concern that you will find is that, particularly among women, a high number of businesses (around 60%-- I&#039;d have to search to find the stats on that) only employ the owner, and barely provide full-time salary at that ($50K annual GROSS revenue). 

So collectively speaking, small biz is more profitable and employs more people, collectively, the majority of small businesses (at least those that are women owned) are micro businesses that don&#039;t provide jobs.

And for that reason, I think there&#039;s a growing movement to teach financial management, growth and management skills, to move more businesses out of that revenue category into one that provides jobs. 

As far as people who took on risky debt they could not handle, irresponsible is irresponsible no matter how you cut it. Those that went out of control with their businesses usually were out of control with their personal finances (and I have yet to meet the person that&#039;s an exception to that rule) and shouldn&#039;t merit consideration when formulating strategies or stances on such issues. It&#039;s just something I&#039;ve learned about people in business over the years. You can determine character markers that distinguish between those who will ultimately make it and those who will just spin their wheels and fizzle out (or go up in flames). 

I think what happened with the apparel industry is a typical level of arrogance that &quot;made in America&quot; would mean something significant to a large enough percentage of the population, to the point where competitive advantages were no longer sustained or sought. Consumers aren&#039;t necessarily &quot;cheap&quot; but we (the industry) doesn&#039;t do a good job of combatting the widely held perception that we produce stuff in sweatshops for thirteen cents a day and mark it up to $300 in boutiques and top shelf department stores. We&#039;ve done absolutely nothing to educate customers on the true price of production. People, generally, have a more realistic view of what it costs to make the goods they consume-- except when it comes to fashion.

You never see someone in the store saying &quot;I know they make this Captain Crunch for twenty eight cents and have the audacity to sell it to me for nearly three dollars&quot;, but betcha they believe $120 Nikes cost $4 to make by blind Cambodian children in a richshack indentured servitude camp serving one meal a day with no restroom breaks. Try it yourself, walk up to the average person and say do you know a box of captain crunch costs twenty eight cents to produce (including the box) and they won&#039;t believe you but if you say that Nikes only cost four dollars to make, they will say &quot;I knew it, I knew Nike was getting over!&quot;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><i>I prefer small businesses in several respects. For one, they employ more people than large ones. Second, dividing head count by total sales, they’re more profitable. </i></p>
<p>It&#8217;s very true when you go by the SBA&#8217;s definition of small business&#8211; however, one really huge area for concern that you will find is that, particularly among women, a high number of businesses (around 60%&#8211; I&#8217;d have to search to find the stats on that) only employ the owner, and barely provide full-time salary at that ($50K annual GROSS revenue). </p>
<p>So collectively speaking, small biz is more profitable and employs more people, collectively, the majority of small businesses (at least those that are women owned) are micro businesses that don&#8217;t provide jobs.</p>
<p>And for that reason, I think there&#8217;s a growing movement to teach financial management, growth and management skills, to move more businesses out of that revenue category into one that provides jobs. </p>
<p>As far as people who took on risky debt they could not handle, irresponsible is irresponsible no matter how you cut it. Those that went out of control with their businesses usually were out of control with their personal finances (and I have yet to meet the person that&#8217;s an exception to that rule) and shouldn&#8217;t merit consideration when formulating strategies or stances on such issues. It&#8217;s just something I&#8217;ve learned about people in business over the years. You can determine character markers that distinguish between those who will ultimately make it and those who will just spin their wheels and fizzle out (or go up in flames). </p>
<p>I think what happened with the apparel industry is a typical level of arrogance that &#8220;made in America&#8221; would mean something significant to a large enough percentage of the population, to the point where competitive advantages were no longer sustained or sought. Consumers aren&#8217;t necessarily &#8220;cheap&#8221; but we (the industry) doesn&#8217;t do a good job of combatting the widely held perception that we produce stuff in sweatshops for thirteen cents a day and mark it up to $300 in boutiques and top shelf department stores. We&#8217;ve done absolutely nothing to educate customers on the true price of production. People, generally, have a more realistic view of what it costs to make the goods they consume&#8211; except when it comes to fashion.</p>
<p>You never see someone in the store saying &#8220;I know they make this Captain Crunch for twenty eight cents and have the audacity to sell it to me for nearly three dollars&#8221;, but betcha they believe $120 Nikes cost $4 to make by blind Cambodian children in a richshack indentured servitude camp serving one meal a day with no restroom breaks. Try it yourself, walk up to the average person and say do you know a box of captain crunch costs twenty eight cents to produce (including the box) and they won&#8217;t believe you but if you say that Nikes only cost four dollars to make, they will say &#8220;I knew it, I knew Nike was getting over!&#8221;</p>
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		<title>By: Pattern puzzle: Gloves</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/schmatta-rags-to-riches-to-rags-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-18919</link>
		<dc:creator>Pattern puzzle: Gloves</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Oct 2009 20:57:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5126#comment-18919</guid>
		<description>[...] in yesterday’s NYTimes. How convenient it comes on the tail end of the Schmatta entries. From the NYT: Between 1890 and 1950, Gloversville supplied nearly 90 percent of all gloves sold in [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] in yesterday’s NYTimes. How convenient it comes on the tail end of the Schmatta entries. From the NYT: Between 1890 and 1950, Gloversville supplied nearly 90 percent of all gloves sold in [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Kathleen</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/schmatta-rags-to-riches-to-rags-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-18915</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Oct 2009 20:19:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5126#comment-18915</guid>
		<description>You&#039;re probably right I shouldn&#039;t have worded it as I did. There&#039;s the matter of managed debt; I know of very small businesses (fewer than five employees) selling 7 figures who produce everything themselves and who have debt. It&#039;s what got them to where they are, enabling their high productivity. I guess it depends on your debt percentage. What I see all too frequently is people assuming far too much debt, taking on second mortgages they can&#039;t afford to risk. I&#039;m much less concerned about secured debt. Like a car I suppose. If you get in over your head, you can sell or return the car and only be out the difference (and there surely will be) but it&#039;s manageable. It&#039;s expensive intangible purchases for which there are few means of recovery and with limited means to repay it that are distressing. And that&#039;s what most people seem to be attracted to.

Whether you choose to go public depends on your goals and working style.  Personally, I don&#039;t have the business or financial sophistication to even contemplate the transition so I&#039;d settle for acquisition. Which is not to say I don&#039;t admire people who can do it. It&#039;s overwhelming to me.

Which businesses I prefer depends on context. 

I prefer small businesses in several respects. For one, they employ more people than large ones. Second, dividing head count by total sales, they&#039;re more profitable. They also tend to spend a greater percentage of their money locally which benefits the community. 

I prefer larger businesses because their operational practices are more professional. How it is that smaller businesses are more profitable than large ones considering their comparative operational inefficiencies, I&#039;ll never understand. I suspect it&#039;s related to transaction costs which escalate dramatically in far flung enterprises. 

Then, there&#039;s the matter of scale. I&#039;ve long said that different enterprises are optimally suited to different scales. Industries with a higher engineering component are better suited to large scale. The closer to the dirt you are, the smaller you should be (optimally). The example I cite most often is agriculture. The most efficient farms are 80 acres. I firmly believe there&#039;s a governance with regard to apparel firms too altho I struggle to define it. I used to think firms ideally have no more than 200 stitchers. Lately tho, I&#039;m thinking it&#039;s less, maybe even dramatically fewer, say only 20. We&#039;re not far from the dirt on the scale of needs hierarchy. First it&#039;s food, then clothing, then shelter. Most builders are also not large and they&#039;re also regional...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You&#8217;re probably right I shouldn&#8217;t have worded it as I did. There&#8217;s the matter of managed debt; I know of very small businesses (fewer than five employees) selling 7 figures who produce everything themselves and who have debt. It&#8217;s what got them to where they are, enabling their high productivity. I guess it depends on your debt percentage. What I see all too frequently is people assuming far too much debt, taking on second mortgages they can&#8217;t afford to risk. I&#8217;m much less concerned about secured debt. Like a car I suppose. If you get in over your head, you can sell or return the car and only be out the difference (and there surely will be) but it&#8217;s manageable. It&#8217;s expensive intangible purchases for which there are few means of recovery and with limited means to repay it that are distressing. And that&#8217;s what most people seem to be attracted to.</p>
<p>Whether you choose to go public depends on your goals and working style.  Personally, I don&#8217;t have the business or financial sophistication to even contemplate the transition so I&#8217;d settle for acquisition. Which is not to say I don&#8217;t admire people who can do it. It&#8217;s overwhelming to me.</p>
<p>Which businesses I prefer depends on context. </p>
<p>I prefer small businesses in several respects. For one, they employ more people than large ones. Second, dividing head count by total sales, they&#8217;re more profitable. They also tend to spend a greater percentage of their money locally which benefits the community. </p>
<p>I prefer larger businesses because their operational practices are more professional. How it is that smaller businesses are more profitable than large ones considering their comparative operational inefficiencies, I&#8217;ll never understand. I suspect it&#8217;s related to transaction costs which escalate dramatically in far flung enterprises. </p>
<p>Then, there&#8217;s the matter of scale. I&#8217;ve long said that different enterprises are optimally suited to different scales. Industries with a higher engineering component are better suited to large scale. The closer to the dirt you are, the smaller you should be (optimally). The example I cite most often is agriculture. The most efficient farms are 80 acres. I firmly believe there&#8217;s a governance with regard to apparel firms too altho I struggle to define it. I used to think firms ideally have no more than 200 stitchers. Lately tho, I&#8217;m thinking it&#8217;s less, maybe even dramatically fewer, say only 20. We&#8217;re not far from the dirt on the scale of needs hierarchy. First it&#8217;s food, then clothing, then shelter. Most builders are also not large and they&#8217;re also regional&#8230;</p>
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		<title>By: Miracle</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/schmatta-rags-to-riches-to-rags-pt-2/comment-page-1/#comment-18911</link>
		<dc:creator>Miracle</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Oct 2009 16:41:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5126#comment-18911</guid>
		<description>I think going public as being a no-no is not a productive way to look at things. Even small entities can have investors that want exit strategies or investment-worthy ROI. Keeping small and debt free is fantastic, but not everyone is in business to stay small and debt free. I see two sides of the same coin and nothing being wrong with either. Some DEs need to stay small, and let me put a dollar figure here so we can all be on the same page, by small I mean revenues under 7 figures, because it&#039;s pretty hard to go over that without debt. I&#039;m not saying it&#039;s not doable, but usually lines of credit, equipment leases and other forms of debt come into the picture at that point.

Anyhow, back to my point, some DEs need to stay small and debt-free because they are incapable of managing anything else. But the reality is small and debt free businesses usually don&#039;t create jobs. They are usually solely-owner-operated ventures (or employ mostly family) as typically, once you have payroll, a lot of businesses (again) have credit lines to serve as a back up to cyclical cash flow.

So I guess my point is I suppose it does good to say stay small and debt free, but on the other hand, it&#039;s almost counter productive to growing the domestic garment industry. And in a very interesting socio-economic twist, it&#039;s usually an argument pushed by women to women which (I believe) is one of the reasons women owned businesses (statistically) tend to gross less than male owned businesses and why as women owned businesses grow, they tend to hire men to run them-- because we aren&#039;t socialized to grow and to properly manage money and debt in a business sense.

Anyhow, I just threw my two cents in, as that struck a chord with me.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I think going public as being a no-no is not a productive way to look at things. Even small entities can have investors that want exit strategies or investment-worthy ROI. Keeping small and debt free is fantastic, but not everyone is in business to stay small and debt free. I see two sides of the same coin and nothing being wrong with either. Some DEs need to stay small, and let me put a dollar figure here so we can all be on the same page, by small I mean revenues under 7 figures, because it&#8217;s pretty hard to go over that without debt. I&#8217;m not saying it&#8217;s not doable, but usually lines of credit, equipment leases and other forms of debt come into the picture at that point.</p>
<p>Anyhow, back to my point, some DEs need to stay small and debt-free because they are incapable of managing anything else. But the reality is small and debt free businesses usually don&#8217;t create jobs. They are usually solely-owner-operated ventures (or employ mostly family) as typically, once you have payroll, a lot of businesses (again) have credit lines to serve as a back up to cyclical cash flow.</p>
<p>So I guess my point is I suppose it does good to say stay small and debt free, but on the other hand, it&#8217;s almost counter productive to growing the domestic garment industry. And in a very interesting socio-economic twist, it&#8217;s usually an argument pushed by women to women which (I believe) is one of the reasons women owned businesses (statistically) tend to gross less than male owned businesses and why as women owned businesses grow, they tend to hire men to run them&#8211; because we aren&#8217;t socialized to grow and to properly manage money and debt in a business sense.</p>
<p>Anyhow, I just threw my two cents in, as that struck a chord with me.</p>
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