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	<title>Comments on: Silver City Vintage</title>
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	<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/silver-city-vintage/</link>
	<description>How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better.</description>
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		<title>By: Kate Rawlinson: Cutter Extraordinaire</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/silver-city-vintage/comment-page-1/#comment-15204</link>
		<dc:creator>Kate Rawlinson: Cutter Extraordinaire</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Jul 2009 23:34:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4194#comment-15204</guid>
		<description>[...] in one of last week’s comments was one from Kate Rawlinson who left a link to some recent work she’d done. It’s phenomenal. [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] in one of last week’s comments was one from Kate Rawlinson who left a link to some recent work she’d done. It’s phenomenal. [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Kate in England</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/silver-city-vintage/comment-page-1/#comment-14651</link>
		<dc:creator>Kate in England</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 18 Jun 2009 21:48:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4194#comment-14651</guid>
		<description>I did a couple of things recently with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/22939041@N03/3593081922/in/set-72157619199518464/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/22939041@N03/3593082384/in/set-72157619199518464/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;crazy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/22939041@N03/3592254525/in/set-72157619199518464/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;seams&lt;/a&gt; - kind of fun but time-consuming. Guess that&#039;s why they don&#039;t make financial sense.... LOVE that 70s jacket though.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I did a couple of things recently with <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/22939041@N03/3593081922/in/set-72157619199518464/" rel="nofollow">some</a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/22939041@N03/3593082384/in/set-72157619199518464/" rel="nofollow">crazy</a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/22939041@N03/3592254525/in/set-72157619199518464/" rel="nofollow">seams</a> &#8211; kind of fun but time-consuming. Guess that&#8217;s why they don&#8217;t make financial sense&#8230;. LOVE that 70s jacket though.</p>
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		<title>By: Sandra B</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/silver-city-vintage/comment-page-1/#comment-14535</link>
		<dc:creator>Sandra B</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 17 Jun 2009 08:47:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4194#comment-14535</guid>
		<description>I love looking at well made clothes.  I have a skirt with a tab just like that one, but the button on the inside.  Yep, hand sewn.  It was from a chain store, made in China.  The next skirt on my rack has a bias tube loop and the button on the inside. I don&#039;t like the look of the button on the outside, it seems out of context.  My op-shopping has been fruitful lately. I just found a beautiful jacket with the most incredible pattern matching, fantastic buttons and a really intriguing pocket flap detail.  It&#039;s someone or other &quot;for Nordstrom&quot;, made in Korea.  Everything about it screams very high quality, so of course I opened the lining seam to have a look inside.  (Most of my jackets have the sleeve lining unpicked so I can poke around inside LOL) The ends of the darts were marked with a grey pencil over the interfacing.  The stitching was immaculate and any bit that may have flapped around was secured with a few tacking stitches or, at the armpit joining lining seam to garment seam, a small rectangle of lining fabric (for movement).  The Escada jacket I&#039;m wearing ($20, local op-shop) has the same little lining flaps, but the big surprise in that one was the quality of the shoulder pads.  Cheap cheap cheap foam.  And being 25 years old, disintegrating.  Yuk.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I love looking at well made clothes.  I have a skirt with a tab just like that one, but the button on the inside.  Yep, hand sewn.  It was from a chain store, made in China.  The next skirt on my rack has a bias tube loop and the button on the inside. I don&#8217;t like the look of the button on the outside, it seems out of context.  My op-shopping has been fruitful lately. I just found a beautiful jacket with the most incredible pattern matching, fantastic buttons and a really intriguing pocket flap detail.  It&#8217;s someone or other &#8220;for Nordstrom&#8221;, made in Korea.  Everything about it screams very high quality, so of course I opened the lining seam to have a look inside.  (Most of my jackets have the sleeve lining unpicked so I can poke around inside LOL) The ends of the darts were marked with a grey pencil over the interfacing.  The stitching was immaculate and any bit that may have flapped around was secured with a few tacking stitches or, at the armpit joining lining seam to garment seam, a small rectangle of lining fabric (for movement).  The Escada jacket I&#8217;m wearing ($20, local op-shop) has the same little lining flaps, but the big surprise in that one was the quality of the shoulder pads.  Cheap cheap cheap foam.  And being 25 years old, disintegrating.  Yuk.</p>
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		<title>By: kathleen</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/silver-city-vintage/comment-page-1/#comment-14530</link>
		<dc:creator>kathleen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 17 Jun 2009 01:08:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4194#comment-14530</guid>
		<description>LisaB wrote:
&lt;blockquote&gt;I wasn’t clear with my pin tuck question. I was wondering if you could have a tab exactly as it is shown above but simply put the button on the inside of the skirt... This in itself probably means the tab wouldn’t accomplish as much reinforcement. With the button sewn on by machine, I suppose that automatically means that thread would show on the outside. LOL…I’m probably not being any more clear this time either.&lt;/blockquote&gt;

Oh I get it now, sorry &#039;bout that. Yeah, you could sew the button to the inside back waist facing and not have the stitching show on the outside. It&#039;d have to be done by hand but totally doable. It probably wouldn&#039;t be as structurally sound as doing it the other way but the tab would still be closest to the body and the first layer of defense rather than having no tab at all and the top of the zip taking the brunt of it all. 

dosfashionistas wrote:
&lt;blockquote&gt;Back to the pintucking again. Would you have allowed for the takeup of the tucking in the vertical only, or would you have allowed some in the horizental and if so, how much?&lt;/blockquote&gt;

I&#039;d do this using B.F.I -brute force and ignorance. First you have to have a pattern piece to fill that side panel space whether it had tucks or not. So starting with that, I&#039;d cut a piece of sample fabric larger than I needed, sew the stitch pattern on it, trace the base side panel onto the stitched sample and then take the pintucked sewn lines apart from which I&#039;d make the actual pattern. 

When you asked before, I thought you were asking about to the sewing process not the pattern process. You can do this mathematically too which I like to do (proving it with a deconstructed sewn sample) because it gives you more options plus it&#039;s much cleaner but I don&#039;t know how to write equations properly. I had Eric write out an equation for bias calculation (adding/reducing for fitting etc) telling him what the answer was as a percentage of an inch depending on the angle of the seam but his equation didn&#039;t make sense to me. I wouldn&#039;t be able to do the math like that and come up with the answer I needed altho I have no doubts his equation was correct.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>LisaB wrote:</p>
<blockquote><p>I wasn’t clear with my pin tuck question. I was wondering if you could have a tab exactly as it is shown above but simply put the button on the inside of the skirt&#8230; This in itself probably means the tab wouldn’t accomplish as much reinforcement. With the button sewn on by machine, I suppose that automatically means that thread would show on the outside. LOL…I’m probably not being any more clear this time either.</p></blockquote>
<p>Oh I get it now, sorry &#8217;bout that. Yeah, you could sew the button to the inside back waist facing and not have the stitching show on the outside. It&#8217;d have to be done by hand but totally doable. It probably wouldn&#8217;t be as structurally sound as doing it the other way but the tab would still be closest to the body and the first layer of defense rather than having no tab at all and the top of the zip taking the brunt of it all. </p>
<p>dosfashionistas wrote:</p>
<blockquote><p>Back to the pintucking again. Would you have allowed for the takeup of the tucking in the vertical only, or would you have allowed some in the horizental and if so, how much?</p></blockquote>
<p>I&#8217;d do this using B.F.I -brute force and ignorance. First you have to have a pattern piece to fill that side panel space whether it had tucks or not. So starting with that, I&#8217;d cut a piece of sample fabric larger than I needed, sew the stitch pattern on it, trace the base side panel onto the stitched sample and then take the pintucked sewn lines apart from which I&#8217;d make the actual pattern. </p>
<p>When you asked before, I thought you were asking about to the sewing process not the pattern process. You can do this mathematically too which I like to do (proving it with a deconstructed sewn sample) because it gives you more options plus it&#8217;s much cleaner but I don&#8217;t know how to write equations properly. I had Eric write out an equation for bias calculation (adding/reducing for fitting etc) telling him what the answer was as a percentage of an inch depending on the angle of the seam but his equation didn&#8217;t make sense to me. I wouldn&#8217;t be able to do the math like that and come up with the answer I needed altho I have no doubts his equation was correct.</p>
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		<title>By: katyrenee</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/silver-city-vintage/comment-page-1/#comment-14528</link>
		<dc:creator>katyrenee</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 17 Jun 2009 00:24:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4194#comment-14528</guid>
		<description>I laughed and laughed about the cat bringing you a waffle. Makes me have yet another reason to vacation in New Mexico.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I laughed and laughed about the cat bringing you a waffle. Makes me have yet another reason to vacation in New Mexico.</p>
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		<title>By: dosfashionistas</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/silver-city-vintage/comment-page-1/#comment-14525</link>
		<dc:creator>dosfashionistas</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Jun 2009 22:29:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4194#comment-14525</guid>
		<description>Back to the pintucking again. Would you have allowed for the takeup of the tucking in the vertical only, or would you have allowed some in the horizental and if so, how much? That is what I was trying to figure as I looked at it. It looks as though all the tuck begin and end on the vertical, so my guess is vertical only. ???

And while we are talking about nice construction. I would love to see a tutorial showing exactly how to line a skirt with a pleat so that everything is attached, neat and finished.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Back to the pintucking again. Would you have allowed for the takeup of the tucking in the vertical only, or would you have allowed some in the horizental and if so, how much? That is what I was trying to figure as I looked at it. It looks as though all the tuck begin and end on the vertical, so my guess is vertical only. ???</p>
<p>And while we are talking about nice construction. I would love to see a tutorial showing exactly how to line a skirt with a pleat so that everything is attached, neat and finished.</p>
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		<title>By: LisaB</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/silver-city-vintage/comment-page-1/#comment-14523</link>
		<dc:creator>LisaB</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Jun 2009 20:21:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4194#comment-14523</guid>
		<description>Kathleen, I wasn&#039;t clear with my pin tuck question. I was wondering if you could have a tab exactly as it is shown above but simply put the button on the inside of the skirt. However, thinking about it further, I think my question comes from a home sewing perspective, because I&#039;d hand sew the button inside without any thread showing on the outside of the skirt. This in itself probably means the tab wouldn&#039;t accomplish as much reinforcement. With the button sewn on by machine, I suppose that automatically means that thread would show on the outside. LOL...I&#039;m probably not being any more clear this time either.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kathleen, I wasn&#8217;t clear with my pin tuck question. I was wondering if you could have a tab exactly as it is shown above but simply put the button on the inside of the skirt. However, thinking about it further, I think my question comes from a home sewing perspective, because I&#8217;d hand sew the button inside without any thread showing on the outside of the skirt. This in itself probably means the tab wouldn&#8217;t accomplish as much reinforcement. With the button sewn on by machine, I suppose that automatically means that thread would show on the outside. LOL&#8230;I&#8217;m probably not being any more clear this time either.</p>
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		<title>By: Kathleen</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/silver-city-vintage/comment-page-1/#comment-14521</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Jun 2009 18:30:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4194#comment-14521</guid>
		<description>Dosfashionistas wrote: &lt;blockquote&gt;That pintucking is more elaborate than any I have ever
tried to allow for. Would you have it done and then cut the piece?&lt;/blockquote&gt;
I would cut the piece, pin tuck it and then sew it to the front. 

Julian wrote: &lt;blockquote&gt;Does Silver City still have that sign that says “Welcome to Silver City, NM. Enjoy your stay but please go home” ?&lt;/blockquote&gt;
I think I&#039;ve seen this but haven&#039;t seen it in the past several years. 

LisaB: &lt;blockquote&gt;That pin tucking is spectacular. I wouldn’t have a clue how to do that.&lt;/blockquote&gt;
It&#039;s really not that hard. Make a guide (as shown in the book, example of the pocket guide) to mark it. The only tricky part could be on a home machine (haven&#039;t tried this) rather than a dedicated double needle. I&#039;ll have to do a test sample, the pivot point being the stickler.
&lt;blockquote&gt; Regarding the button reinforcement on the invisible zipper… Would the same effect be achieved by making the buttonhole in the tab and placing the button on the inside of the skirt?&lt;/blockquote&gt;
Here&#039;s a photo showing the button &lt;a href=&quot;http://designer-entrepreneurs.com/blog/illustrations/sc_jones_skirt_out.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on the outside&lt;/a&gt; of the skirt. Yes, the same effect could be achieved by reversing this, namely placing a tab on the outside of the skirt but I guess they figured it would detract more from the clean finish. Plus, you&#039;d have to stick that tab in the same seam as the zipper itself which probably would affect (?) the invisible effect. It&#039;s a tough design decision.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dosfashionistas wrote:<br />
<blockquote>That pintucking is more elaborate than any I have ever<br />
tried to allow for. Would you have it done and then cut the piece?</p></blockquote>
<p>I would cut the piece, pin tuck it and then sew it to the front. </p>
<p>Julian wrote:<br />
<blockquote>Does Silver City still have that sign that says “Welcome to Silver City, NM. Enjoy your stay but please go home” ?</p></blockquote>
<p>I think I&#8217;ve seen this but haven&#8217;t seen it in the past several years. </p>
<p>LisaB:<br />
<blockquote>That pin tucking is spectacular. I wouldn’t have a clue how to do that.</p></blockquote>
<p>It&#8217;s really not that hard. Make a guide (as shown in the book, example of the pocket guide) to mark it. The only tricky part could be on a home machine (haven&#8217;t tried this) rather than a dedicated double needle. I&#8217;ll have to do a test sample, the pivot point being the stickler.</p>
<blockquote><p> Regarding the button reinforcement on the invisible zipper… Would the same effect be achieved by making the buttonhole in the tab and placing the button on the inside of the skirt?</p></blockquote>
<p>Here&#8217;s a photo showing the button <a href="http://designer-entrepreneurs.com/blog/illustrations/sc_jones_skirt_out.jpg" rel="nofollow">on the outside</a> of the skirt. Yes, the same effect could be achieved by reversing this, namely placing a tab on the outside of the skirt but I guess they figured it would detract more from the clean finish. Plus, you&#8217;d have to stick that tab in the same seam as the zipper itself which probably would affect (?) the invisible effect. It&#8217;s a tough design decision.</p>
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		<title>By: DeniseS</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/silver-city-vintage/comment-page-1/#comment-14518</link>
		<dc:creator>DeniseS</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Jun 2009 13:36:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4194#comment-14518</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m thinking wayyyy back to pattern drafting classes, and I recall being taught to making the neckline facing 1/16&quot; smaller at the neckline and garment opening, which is to be done in addition to understitching. It looks like they&#039;ve done that here. So hurray for the 80s?!?

I agree with kitty being cute...sounds like a great getaway weekend.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m thinking wayyyy back to pattern drafting classes, and I recall being taught to making the neckline facing 1/16&#8243; smaller at the neckline and garment opening, which is to be done in addition to understitching. It looks like they&#8217;ve done that here. So hurray for the 80s?!?</p>
<p>I agree with kitty being cute&#8230;sounds like a great getaway weekend.</p>
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		<title>By: LisaB</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/silver-city-vintage/comment-page-1/#comment-14517</link>
		<dc:creator>LisaB</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Jun 2009 12:37:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4194#comment-14517</guid>
		<description>Thanks for all the pictures. That pin tucking is spectacular. I wouldn&#039;t have a clue how to do that.

Regarding the button reinforcement on the invisible zipper... Would the same effect be achieved by making the buttonhole in the tab and placing the button on the inside of the skirt?

Tigger is a real cutie. I hope she received many free pets.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for all the pictures. That pin tucking is spectacular. I wouldn&#8217;t have a clue how to do that.</p>
<p>Regarding the button reinforcement on the invisible zipper&#8230; Would the same effect be achieved by making the buttonhole in the tab and placing the button on the inside of the skirt?</p>
<p>Tigger is a real cutie. I hope she received many free pets.</p>
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