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	<title>Comments on: SPESA Trip Report: Kathleen pt.3</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/</link>
	<description>How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better.</description>
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		<title>By: Ken Milam</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/comment-page-1/#comment-11766</link>
		<dc:creator>Ken Milam</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 21 Nov 2008 23:11:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/05/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/#comment-11766</guid>
		<description>Hi Kathleen,
Porous plastic is used as the cutting surface for many static cutting tables but I hear horror stories about replacement costs.  I also hear that the actual replacement of the surface is problematic.  

I&#039;d like to design and build an improved cutting surface for these static machines that is less expensive and better optimized for in situ replacement.  Do you know any cutting table owners in the southeast who are interested in working with a porous plastic manufacturer to develop an improved system?  

Thanks,
Ken Milam
rkmilam@yahoo.com</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Kathleen,<br />
Porous plastic is used as the cutting surface for many static cutting tables but I hear horror stories about replacement costs.  I also hear that the actual replacement of the surface is problematic.  </p>
<p>I&#8217;d like to design and build an improved cutting surface for these static machines that is less expensive and better optimized for in situ replacement.  Do you know any cutting table owners in the southeast who are interested in working with a porous plastic manufacturer to develop an improved system?  </p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
Ken Milam<br />
<a href="mailto:rkmilam@yahoo.com">rkmilam@yahoo.com</a></p>
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		<title>By: anne</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/comment-page-1/#comment-7037</link>
		<dc:creator>anne</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 15 Jun 2007 05:07:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/05/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/#comment-7037</guid>
		<description>Kathleen, readers have suggested in the past that you write a sewing book. Do you know how many books there are for home sewers describing sewing leather? There&#039;s about three, and they&#039;re all from the 60s and 70s - and they have very limited information, very little applicable to modern styles.

I&#039;ve learnt more reading this column than I have in all the books and articles I&#039;ve managed to find on leather sewing.

Awesome :-)
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kathleen, readers have suggested in the past that you write a sewing book. Do you know how many books there are for home sewers describing sewing leather? There&#8217;s about three, and they&#8217;re all from the 60s and 70s &#8211; and they have very limited information, very little applicable to modern styles.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve learnt more reading this column than I have in all the books and articles I&#8217;ve managed to find on leather sewing.</p>
<p>Awesome <img src='http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>By: Eric H</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/comment-page-1/#comment-7036</link>
		<dc:creator>Eric H</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 May 2007 04:17:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/05/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/#comment-7036</guid>
		<description>When I go out to buy hardware and run into that kind of secretive behavior, alarms immediately go off in my head.  I figure they&#039;re either angling to get me into the high pressure room, or there are some hidden costs (the proprietary power plug is an additional $599), or some other nefarious reason I haven&#039;t figured out.  And I don&#039;t intend to find out the hard way.  Even if they reassure me, I start to wonder about the post-sales support.  If they can&#039;t tell me how much it costs up front, what are the odds that it will be easy to get a manual or training or any number of things that I need because they&#039;re afraid of the competition?

I suspect in this case it was immaturity or lack of confidence.  I noticed them scouting their competition and suspect that the competition probably returned the favor.  Given that the competition has figured out the pricing by now, the only reason not to publish your price is that you don&#039;t think the customers will know a good deal when they see it.

If you want to see what good customer support looks like (pre- and post-sales), go look at Dallas Semiconductor (Maxim).  You can look at any product, spec sheet, and application note, and even order evaluation kits and free samples from their website.  They also happen to be very successful - is it because of or in spite of the way they give away information?  I&#039;d argue the former.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>When I go out to buy hardware and run into that kind of secretive behavior, alarms immediately go off in my head.  I figure they&#8217;re either angling to get me into the high pressure room, or there are some hidden costs (the proprietary power plug is an additional $599), or some other nefarious reason I haven&#8217;t figured out.  And I don&#8217;t intend to find out the hard way.  Even if they reassure me, I start to wonder about the post-sales support.  If they can&#8217;t tell me how much it costs up front, what are the odds that it will be easy to get a manual or training or any number of things that I need because they&#8217;re afraid of the competition?</p>
<p>I suspect in this case it was immaturity or lack of confidence.  I noticed them scouting their competition and suspect that the competition probably returned the favor.  Given that the competition has figured out the pricing by now, the only reason not to publish your price is that you don&#8217;t think the customers will know a good deal when they see it.</p>
<p>If you want to see what good customer support looks like (pre- and post-sales), go look at Dallas Semiconductor (Maxim).  You can look at any product, spec sheet, and application note, and even order evaluation kits and free samples from their website.  They also happen to be very successful &#8211; is it because of or in spite of the way they give away information?  I&#8217;d argue the former.</p>
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		<title>By: J C Sprowls</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/comment-page-1/#comment-7035</link>
		<dc:creator>J C Sprowls</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 May 2007 00:24:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/05/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/#comment-7035</guid>
		<description>It is childish behavior, Adam. And, it&#039;s not limited to only the sewn products industry, it exists in others.

I had a conversation with my boss, yesterday, because I have preconceived notions about hiding your prices. She said her opinion was that it breaks down into two main categories: a) your product requires a lot of customized configuration, so pricing requires detailed analysis, and b) the marketing department believes that with their &quot;stellar skills&quot; they can sell more than you think you need.

Her opinion is similar to mine, luckily (it&#039;s good to be of like mind with your boss). In any event, a piece of hardware is a piece of hardware if the price isn&#039;t publishable, then it might fluctuate depending on what the salesperson thinks you can afford, how much commission they need to earn, etc (i.e. a car).

While this particular company has a kick-a$$ product, their marketing team is standing in the way to making deals by not disclosing the cost on their website. When customers are shopping for hardware, features are about 20% of the deciding factor. Most of the buying decision is price, let&#039;s face it, there are any number of hardware options that will obtain the same result - some with a little more work effort to operate than others.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It is childish behavior, Adam. And, it&#8217;s not limited to only the sewn products industry, it exists in others.</p>
<p>I had a conversation with my boss, yesterday, because I have preconceived notions about hiding your prices. She said her opinion was that it breaks down into two main categories: a) your product requires a lot of customized configuration, so pricing requires detailed analysis, and b) the marketing department believes that with their &#8220;stellar skills&#8221; they can sell more than you think you need.</p>
<p>Her opinion is similar to mine, luckily (it&#8217;s good to be of like mind with your boss). In any event, a piece of hardware is a piece of hardware if the price isn&#8217;t publishable, then it might fluctuate depending on what the salesperson thinks you can afford, how much commission they need to earn, etc (i.e. a car).</p>
<p>While this particular company has a kick-a$$ product, their marketing team is standing in the way to making deals by not disclosing the cost on their website. When customers are shopping for hardware, features are about 20% of the deciding factor. Most of the buying decision is price, let&#8217;s face it, there are any number of hardware options that will obtain the same result &#8211; some with a little more work effort to operate than others.</p>
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		<title>By: Adam Alpern</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/comment-page-1/#comment-7034</link>
		<dc:creator>Adam Alpern</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 May 2007 22:55:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/05/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/#comment-7034</guid>
		<description>Good lord, what a device! (I&#039;m talking about the Taurus, of course).

And what *is* it with the sewn good industry? Where did all the incredibly thin skins come from? And the reluctance to move into the modern era? From the perspective of someone used to an entirely different sales/customer service arena (my day job is in software development), it seems, well....childish.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Good lord, what a device! (I&#8217;m talking about the Taurus, of course).</p>
<p>And what *is* it with the sewn good industry? Where did all the incredibly thin skins come from? And the reluctance to move into the modern era? From the perspective of someone used to an entirely different sales/customer service arena (my day job is in software development), it seems, well&#8230;.childish.</p>
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		<title>By: Kathleen</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/comment-page-1/#comment-7033</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 May 2007 17:52:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/05/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/#comment-7033</guid>
		<description>Hi Cymru

&lt;i&gt;Customers for leather goods? Make armored leather gear for female motorcyclists. It is 90% impossible for women to find leather armor that fits them.&lt;/i&gt;

When I say customer, I don&#039;t mean the end user or consumer. I mean manufacturers, B2B. I know there are consumers who will pay $1,000-$1,200 for a jacket but I don&#039;t deal well with people and couldn&#039;t handle the hassle of custom clothing customers (some can be pretty arrogant and self important, thinking they own you). You don&#039;t make much on one-shot deals so I&#039;d have to charge them more than manufacturer customers because manufacturers would be repeat customers. However, if *you* wanted to manufacture these jackets you describe, you could be my customer :).
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Cymru</p>
<p><i>Customers for leather goods? Make armored leather gear for female motorcyclists. It is 90% impossible for women to find leather armor that fits them.</i></p>
<p>When I say customer, I don&#8217;t mean the end user or consumer. I mean manufacturers, B2B. I know there are consumers who will pay $1,000-$1,200 for a jacket but I don&#8217;t deal well with people and couldn&#8217;t handle the hassle of custom clothing customers (some can be pretty arrogant and self important, thinking they own you). You don&#8217;t make much on one-shot deals so I&#8217;d have to charge them more than manufacturer customers because manufacturers would be repeat customers. However, if *you* wanted to manufacture these jackets you describe, you could be my customer <img src='http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> .</p>
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		<title>By: nadine</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/comment-page-1/#comment-7032</link>
		<dc:creator>nadine</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 May 2007 17:18:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/05/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/#comment-7032</guid>
		<description>That leather cutter is an awesome piece of machinery.  I think I saw the earlier version some years back at Bobbin or in NYC once upon a time when they still showed equipment here.

FYI on steel dies - the price is going through the roof because the cost of steel is going through the roof.  I buy osborne leather tools and normally I only buy what I need on a project and never buy tools I don&#039;t need yet but due to the steel prices and osborne prices going up every year on their tools it pays to buy whatever I think I might need this year rather than wait until next year for a several dollar price increase.

Just for those who never had a steel die made - a tiny steel die (cheap kind with wood backing and knife edge) for a wrist cuff side piece would be about $25.00 so you can imagine what a die for a garment would cost and if you go all steel then it is hugely more expensive.  We have a die maker left in NYC who gives 24 hour turn around if you are looking for smaller dies - Continental Die.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>That leather cutter is an awesome piece of machinery.  I think I saw the earlier version some years back at Bobbin or in NYC once upon a time when they still showed equipment here.</p>
<p>FYI on steel dies &#8211; the price is going through the roof because the cost of steel is going through the roof.  I buy osborne leather tools and normally I only buy what I need on a project and never buy tools I don&#8217;t need yet but due to the steel prices and osborne prices going up every year on their tools it pays to buy whatever I think I might need this year rather than wait until next year for a several dollar price increase.</p>
<p>Just for those who never had a steel die made &#8211; a tiny steel die (cheap kind with wood backing and knife edge) for a wrist cuff side piece would be about $25.00 so you can imagine what a die for a garment would cost and if you go all steel then it is hugely more expensive.  We have a die maker left in NYC who gives 24 hour turn around if you are looking for smaller dies &#8211; Continental Die.</p>
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		<title>By: Cymru Llewes</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/comment-page-1/#comment-7031</link>
		<dc:creator>Cymru Llewes</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 May 2007 14:40:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/05/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/#comment-7031</guid>
		<description>Customers for leather goods?

Make armored leather gear for female motorcyclists. It is 90% impossible for women to find leather armor  that fits them. I got lucky and bought a pair of Vansons leather that are wide enough in the hips and don&#039;t float too terribly much around my waist. However wearing them with the side pockets zipped creates an uncomfortable athletic cup effect.

More and more people are saying they are offering women&#039;s riding gear but you can&#039;t prove it by the rest of us. I do mean serious riding gear. Not Harley Davidson riding gear.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Customers for leather goods?</p>
<p>Make armored leather gear for female motorcyclists. It is 90% impossible for women to find leather armor  that fits them. I got lucky and bought a pair of Vansons leather that are wide enough in the hips and don&#8217;t float too terribly much around my waist. However wearing them with the side pockets zipped creates an uncomfortable athletic cup effect.</p>
<p>More and more people are saying they are offering women&#8217;s riding gear but you can&#8217;t prove it by the rest of us. I do mean serious riding gear. Not Harley Davidson riding gear.</p>
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		<title>By: Colleen</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/comment-page-1/#comment-7030</link>
		<dc:creator>Colleen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 May 2007 14:31:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/05/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/#comment-7030</guid>
		<description>Wow, I had to re-read the section about n-hega to try to understand Alyssa&#039;s dissatisfaction.  It&#039;s a glowing product review with one slight comment re: their pricing policy.  Aw, c&#039;mon Alyssa.  It&#039;s important for DE&#039;s to know what products/services cost.  Kathleen certainly implied that the cost was reasonable.  One of my favorite reviews on this site was for Patternworks, specifically because they did include services offered and pricing.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Wow, I had to re-read the section about n-hega to try to understand Alyssa&#8217;s dissatisfaction.  It&#8217;s a glowing product review with one slight comment re: their pricing policy.  Aw, c&#8217;mon Alyssa.  It&#8217;s important for DE&#8217;s to know what products/services cost.  Kathleen certainly implied that the cost was reasonable.  One of my favorite reviews on this site was for Patternworks, specifically because they did include services offered and pricing.</p>
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		<title>By: Eric H</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/comment-page-1/#comment-7029</link>
		<dc:creator>Eric H</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 May 2007 14:17:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2007/05/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt3/#comment-7029</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m not sure the Audaces system was the best, they were simply the only ones who mentioned it.  The others think that they have taken optical distortion out by requiring the use of an overhead shot of a flat table a fixed distance away.  I don&#039;t know how - or if - they address lens and perspective distortions.  Maybe they do, but I didn&#039;t ask anyone else.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m not sure the Audaces system was the best, they were simply the only ones who mentioned it.  The others think that they have taken optical distortion out by requiring the use of an overhead shot of a flat table a fixed distance away.  I don&#8217;t know how &#8211; or if &#8211; they address lens and perspective distortions.  Maybe they do, but I didn&#8217;t ask anyone else.</p>
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