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	<title>Comments on: Teaching an old dog new tricks</title>
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	<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/</link>
	<description>How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better.</description>
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		<title>By: Jane</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/comment-page-1/#comment-11484</link>
		<dc:creator>Jane</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Oct 2008 11:27:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/03/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/#comment-11484</guid>
		<description>Thanks so much for your response! I did end up going with Optitex (but I chose the 3 month rental to test drive the program first). In the end I had some of the same concerns as you did with regards to software development. I am not using 3-D virtual simulation, but maybe someday I will want that option. It was a difficult decision because I really like some of the features of PAD and it was a little less expensive. I spent quite a while trying to find feedback from people who had purchased either of the programs with very little success so ...... thanks again!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks so much for your response! I did end up going with Optitex (but I chose the 3 month rental to test drive the program first). In the end I had some of the same concerns as you did with regards to software development. I am not using 3-D virtual simulation, but maybe someday I will want that option. It was a difficult decision because I really like some of the features of PAD and it was a little less expensive. I spent quite a while trying to find feedback from people who had purchased either of the programs with very little success so &#8230;&#8230; thanks again!</p>
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		<title>By: kathleen</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/comment-page-1/#comment-11482</link>
		<dc:creator>kathleen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Oct 2008 02:13:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/03/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/#comment-11482</guid>
		<description>Sorry I&#039;m taking so long to respond. 

This was a very difficult decision to make, investing in a CAD platform to adopt for years to come. In the end, I dropped PAD from consideration for strategic reasons even tho I got great feedback on it from two people who&#039;s opinions I value. 

By strategic reasons I mean that PAD was acquired by an Asian firm. I don&#039;t have a problem with foreign ownership (!); the issue was the direction in which the firm would be likely to concentrate their product development. For the most part, Asia didn&#039;t have a CAD system but now they do. The market is ripe for the pickings and I have no doubt they&#039;ll clean up. It&#039;s a total win situation. However, resource limitations being what they are and in comparison to the potentiality of profit of the given specific market regions, it makes little sense strategically to continue to invest the resources in the U.S. market. Competition for the CAD pie here is too competitive. Iow, if I owned the company, I&#039;d employ greater expenditures in development (and marketing) toward the Asian market, not here. The situation is such at this point that I imagine that sales are quite brisk there and growing. Infrastructure (training, translations etc) should rightfully be directed toward the market of greatest potential. 

As I imagine sales are brisk (maybe they are not, I don&#039;t know) and with a lot of work on their plates (to get there if they&#039;re not), further enhancements have not been developed in the PAD system. Specifically, all the other leading CAD companies now have 3D modules -not that I&#039;d use it- but the failure to have implemented 3D modeling at this late date, speaks to the general state of the development of the software. Again, not that I&#039;d need it but by all indicators, development is lagging. Frankly, if I owned PAD, I would be unconcerned about adding modeling at this point. I&#039;d have a huge untapped market on my home turf and it&#039;d be kind of dumb to do something &quot;sexy&quot; (as Miracle describes it) for a foreign segment of the market where my sales were already lagging and is increasingly competitive, just to keep up. 

Summary: As I didn&#039;t want to risk the potential of having to reinvest in another product down the road depending on what may or may not come down their pipeline later, it was easier to eliminate PAD from consideration. Like I said, my reasons were strategic, it had nothing to do with the quality of their software.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sorry I&#8217;m taking so long to respond. </p>
<p>This was a very difficult decision to make, investing in a CAD platform to adopt for years to come. In the end, I dropped PAD from consideration for strategic reasons even tho I got great feedback on it from two people who&#8217;s opinions I value. </p>
<p>By strategic reasons I mean that PAD was acquired by an Asian firm. I don&#8217;t have a problem with foreign ownership (!); the issue was the direction in which the firm would be likely to concentrate their product development. For the most part, Asia didn&#8217;t have a CAD system but now they do. The market is ripe for the pickings and I have no doubt they&#8217;ll clean up. It&#8217;s a total win situation. However, resource limitations being what they are and in comparison to the potentiality of profit of the given specific market regions, it makes little sense strategically to continue to invest the resources in the U.S. market. Competition for the CAD pie here is too competitive. Iow, if I owned the company, I&#8217;d employ greater expenditures in development (and marketing) toward the Asian market, not here. The situation is such at this point that I imagine that sales are quite brisk there and growing. Infrastructure (training, translations etc) should rightfully be directed toward the market of greatest potential. </p>
<p>As I imagine sales are brisk (maybe they are not, I don&#8217;t know) and with a lot of work on their plates (to get there if they&#8217;re not), further enhancements have not been developed in the PAD system. Specifically, all the other leading CAD companies now have 3D modules -not that I&#8217;d use it- but the failure to have implemented 3D modeling at this late date, speaks to the general state of the development of the software. Again, not that I&#8217;d need it but by all indicators, development is lagging. Frankly, if I owned PAD, I would be unconcerned about adding modeling at this point. I&#8217;d have a huge untapped market on my home turf and it&#8217;d be kind of dumb to do something &#8220;sexy&#8221; (as Miracle describes it) for a foreign segment of the market where my sales were already lagging and is increasingly competitive, just to keep up. </p>
<p>Summary: As I didn&#8217;t want to risk the potential of having to reinvest in another product down the road depending on what may or may not come down their pipeline later, it was easier to eliminate PAD from consideration. Like I said, my reasons were strategic, it had nothing to do with the quality of their software.</p>
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		<title>By: Jane</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/comment-page-1/#comment-11426</link>
		<dc:creator>Jane</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Oct 2008 17:44:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/03/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/#comment-11426</guid>
		<description>Hi Kathleen,

I am in the process of buying a CAD program and  am deciding between Optitex and PAD. I am wondering why you chose Optitex. It seemed a little more complicated to me (as well as a little more expensive). Any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated as I feel very stuck with my decision making process!

Thanks, Jane</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Kathleen,</p>
<p>I am in the process of buying a CAD program and  am deciding between Optitex and PAD. I am wondering why you chose Optitex. It seemed a little more complicated to me (as well as a little more expensive). Any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated as I feel very stuck with my decision making process!</p>
<p>Thanks, Jane</p>
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		<title>By: Esther</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/comment-page-1/#comment-9738</link>
		<dc:creator>Esther</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Mar 2008 01:20:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/03/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/#comment-9738</guid>
		<description>Since bags don&#039;t require grading, you could try a simple CAD program like TurboCAD (used to be about $100). Although inexpensive, it would be tedious and difficult. I would rather draft by hand. Either way, it all has to be tested in the fabric eventually.

BTW, I keep checking sourceforge for an apparel specific, open source CAD program. I keep hoping someone will pick up the banner and force competition among the apparel CAD creators. Of course, I may have to bone up on coding and do it myself....either that or save up enough cash to buy what I want. ;-)
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Since bags don&#8217;t require grading, you could try a simple CAD program like TurboCAD (used to be about $100). Although inexpensive, it would be tedious and difficult. I would rather draft by hand. Either way, it all has to be tested in the fabric eventually.</p>
<p>BTW, I keep checking sourceforge for an apparel specific, open source CAD program. I keep hoping someone will pick up the banner and force competition among the apparel CAD creators. Of course, I may have to bone up on coding and do it myself&#8230;.either that or save up enough cash to buy what I want. <img src='http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif' alt=';-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>By: Kathleen</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/comment-page-1/#comment-9737</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2008 15:13:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/03/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/#comment-9737</guid>
		<description>&lt;i&gt;I would like to know if anyone could recommend a decent CAD system for under $500. &lt;/i&gt;

You can&#039;t buy even a non-apparel specific program for under $500.

&lt;i&gt;I make bags and I would love to try stuff virtually before I cut and sew expensive material&lt;/i&gt;

Ouch, that really ups the ante...virtual modeling (another animal altogether) packages start at 6-7,000 but since they have to be rolled into a cad program to run, you&#039;re talking 13,000 easy.

DH mentions sourceforge and asks whether you know C++. :)
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><i>I would like to know if anyone could recommend a decent CAD system for under $500. </i></p>
<p>You can&#8217;t buy even a non-apparel specific program for under $500.</p>
<p><i>I make bags and I would love to try stuff virtually before I cut and sew expensive material</i></p>
<p>Ouch, that really ups the ante&#8230;virtual modeling (another animal altogether) packages start at 6-7,000 but since they have to be rolled into a cad program to run, you&#8217;re talking 13,000 easy.</p>
<p>DH mentions sourceforge and asks whether you know C++. <img src='http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>By: Mike</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/comment-page-1/#comment-9736</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2008 01:59:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/03/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/#comment-9736</guid>
		<description>Howdy all - I would like to know if anyone could recommend a decent CAD system for under $500. I know its probably a lot to ask, but it always worth a try.

I make bags and I would love to try stuff virtually before I cut and sew expensive material... I&#039;m still very new to all of this.

Take care,

Mike
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Howdy all &#8211; I would like to know if anyone could recommend a decent CAD system for under $500. I know its probably a lot to ask, but it always worth a try.</p>
<p>I make bags and I would love to try stuff virtually before I cut and sew expensive material&#8230; I&#8217;m still very new to all of this.</p>
<p>Take care,</p>
<p>Mike</p>
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		<title>By: laurie</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/comment-page-1/#comment-9735</link>
		<dc:creator>laurie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 08 Mar 2008 05:58:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/03/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/#comment-9735</guid>
		<description>Glad you chose Optitex, it&#039;s very user friendly. Once you get the hang of it you will never want to go back to manual patternmaking. I never thought I would say that about myself but it&#039;s true.
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Glad you chose Optitex, it&#8217;s very user friendly. Once you get the hang of it you will never want to go back to manual patternmaking. I never thought I would say that about myself but it&#8217;s true.</p>
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		<title>By: Kathleen</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/comment-page-1/#comment-9734</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Mar 2008 13:50:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/03/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/#comment-9734</guid>
		<description>Re: Base. Yeah, I found that a bit annoying until I knew what it was. You&#039;d think it&#039;d be obvious once I tell you what it was but it wasn&#039;t so obvious because Optitex calls the grainline, the &quot;baseline&quot; -which it isn&#039;t. Baseline is (vertically), the mirror point. So, before they told me &quot;base&quot; meant the base size, I thought the program was id&#039;ing that line. The word &quot;base&quot; appears to indicate that the program thinks this represents the mid-point of your size spread because truly, that&#039;s what you&#039;re supposed to be doing. The word base disappears once you tell the program the size range of the style and which size this particular set is (which should be the medium or whichever is the midpoint of your size spread).

Style has approx 56+ pieces. Separate pieces, pieces cut as a pair (2per) count as 1 piece. If they can&#039;t be cut as a pair (like front yokes and lower fronts), they count as separate pieces. The collar counts for two pieces total because there&#039;s a &quot;top&quot; and undercollar, of which the undercollar is a pair, it still counts as only one.

If dies were going to be made (meaning oppositional/directional dies would be needed), I&#039;d look for ways to reduce the number of one way pieces, opting for a slight design change to the yokes (it&#039;s only the inset placement and notching that is different from left/right) and making the undercollar one piece. The latter two are dictates of &quot;mass production&quot; vs cutting smaller runs, presumably by hand.

As such, both Kaaren&#039;s (52) and Mack&#039;s (61) estimates were within equal range of 56+ pieces altho Kaaren gets bonus points because she provided an itemized list. I think this is right but I&#039;m a bit fried right now.

Shell/contrast:
Front yokes-2 (RSU, not 2per)
center front panel 2 (not 2 per)
side panel (2, 2per)
collar 2
back yoke 1
back center 1
side back 2 (2, 2per)
undersleeve 3
upper sleeve 1
Sleeve cuff 1
front facing 1
back neck facing 1
front yoke insets 2
back yoke insets 2
cuff insets 3, can be 4
fringe blocks
welt pocket 2
26 total shell/contrast pieces

Linings:
pocket bag 1 (folds)
front 1
side front 1
back 1
side back 1
sleeve 2

canvas/fusible:
front yoke 1
front 1
back (upper) 1
back yoke 1
collar 2
front facing 1
back facing 1
upper side front 1
upper side back 1
lower side front (hem) 1
lower side back (hem) 1
back (hem) 1
sleeve cuff 1
under sleeve (lower, hem) 1
insets, front 2
insets, back 2
insets, cuff 3/4
welts 1
wigan (not really a piece, but a measure of goods)
sleeve head (ditto)

approx 56+ pieces
As such, both Kaaren&#039;s and Mack&#039;s estimates were within equal range. Kaaren gets bonus points because she provided an itemized list. Pretty good Kaaren! Now I have to figure out a prize for you!
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Re: Base. Yeah, I found that a bit annoying until I knew what it was. You&#8217;d think it&#8217;d be obvious once I tell you what it was but it wasn&#8217;t so obvious because Optitex calls the grainline, the &#8220;baseline&#8221; -which it isn&#8217;t. Baseline is (vertically), the mirror point. So, before they told me &#8220;base&#8221; meant the base size, I thought the program was id&#8217;ing that line. The word &#8220;base&#8221; appears to indicate that the program thinks this represents the mid-point of your size spread because truly, that&#8217;s what you&#8217;re supposed to be doing. The word base disappears once you tell the program the size range of the style and which size this particular set is (which should be the medium or whichever is the midpoint of your size spread).</p>
<p>Style has approx 56+ pieces. Separate pieces, pieces cut as a pair (2per) count as 1 piece. If they can&#8217;t be cut as a pair (like front yokes and lower fronts), they count as separate pieces. The collar counts for two pieces total because there&#8217;s a &#8220;top&#8221; and undercollar, of which the undercollar is a pair, it still counts as only one.</p>
<p>If dies were going to be made (meaning oppositional/directional dies would be needed), I&#8217;d look for ways to reduce the number of one way pieces, opting for a slight design change to the yokes (it&#8217;s only the inset placement and notching that is different from left/right) and making the undercollar one piece. The latter two are dictates of &#8220;mass production&#8221; vs cutting smaller runs, presumably by hand.</p>
<p>As such, both Kaaren&#8217;s (52) and Mack&#8217;s (61) estimates were within equal range of 56+ pieces altho Kaaren gets bonus points because she provided an itemized list. I think this is right but I&#8217;m a bit fried right now.</p>
<p>Shell/contrast:<br />
Front yokes-2 (RSU, not 2per)<br />
center front panel 2 (not 2 per)<br />
side panel (2, 2per)<br />
collar 2<br />
back yoke 1<br />
back center 1<br />
side back 2 (2, 2per)<br />
undersleeve 3<br />
upper sleeve 1<br />
Sleeve cuff 1<br />
front facing 1<br />
back neck facing 1<br />
front yoke insets 2<br />
back yoke insets 2<br />
cuff insets 3, can be 4<br />
fringe blocks<br />
welt pocket 2<br />
26 total shell/contrast pieces</p>
<p>Linings:<br />
pocket bag 1 (folds)<br />
front 1<br />
side front 1<br />
back 1<br />
side back 1<br />
sleeve 2</p>
<p>canvas/fusible:<br />
front yoke 1<br />
front 1<br />
back (upper) 1<br />
back yoke 1<br />
collar 2<br />
front facing 1<br />
back facing 1<br />
upper side front 1<br />
upper side back 1<br />
lower side front (hem) 1<br />
lower side back (hem) 1<br />
back (hem) 1<br />
sleeve cuff 1<br />
under sleeve (lower, hem) 1<br />
insets, front 2<br />
insets, back 2<br />
insets, cuff 3/4<br />
welts 1<br />
wigan (not really a piece, but a measure of goods)<br />
sleeve head (ditto)</p>
<p>approx 56+ pieces<br />
As such, both Kaaren&#8217;s and Mack&#8217;s estimates were within equal range. Kaaren gets bonus points because she provided an itemized list. Pretty good Kaaren! Now I have to figure out a prize for you!</p>
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		<title>By: Rachel</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/comment-page-1/#comment-9733</link>
		<dc:creator>Rachel</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Mar 2008 04:07:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/03/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/#comment-9733</guid>
		<description>Awesome post! I can&#039;t even try to figure out how many pieces you would use for this jacket!

I&#039;m really interested in following your journey into the digital pattern-making. It&#039;s really fascinating and I can&#039;t wait to hear more!
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Awesome post! I can&#8217;t even try to figure out how many pieces you would use for this jacket!</p>
<p>I&#8217;m really interested in following your journey into the digital pattern-making. It&#8217;s really fascinating and I can&#8217;t wait to hear more!</p>
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		<title>By: kaaren hoback</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/comment-page-1/#comment-9732</link>
		<dc:creator>kaaren hoback</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 06 Mar 2008 21:47:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/03/teaching_an_old_dog_new_tricks/#comment-9732</guid>
		<description>MY guess is 52 including lining and fusbibles.
Fashion fabric/leather:
Front yokes-2
center front panel 2
side panel 3
collar 2
back yoke 1
back center 1
side back 3
undersleeve 3
upper sleeve 1
front facing 2
back neck facing 1
inserts 3- not sure maybe 6 as pattern may not be mirrored on yokes, Hem cuff area inserts hmm can&#039;t see maybe 4
fringe
welt pocket 1
other:
pocket bag 2
linings:
front total 4
sleeve 2
back 2

canvas and fusible:
front 6
sleeve hem, sleeve head, shoulder pads
back 2
chest shield? 1
Nagging sense I&#039;m missing something vital.

Now I am too tired to continue work on the project I was doing. I need to take a break from my break visiting your site!
Kaaren




</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>MY guess is 52 including lining and fusbibles.<br />
Fashion fabric/leather:<br />
Front yokes-2<br />
center front panel 2<br />
side panel 3<br />
collar 2<br />
back yoke 1<br />
back center 1<br />
side back 3<br />
undersleeve 3<br />
upper sleeve 1<br />
front facing 2<br />
back neck facing 1<br />
inserts 3- not sure maybe 6 as pattern may not be mirrored on yokes, Hem cuff area inserts hmm can&#8217;t see maybe 4<br />
fringe<br />
welt pocket 1<br />
other:<br />
pocket bag 2<br />
linings:<br />
front total 4<br />
sleeve 2<br />
back 2</p>
<p>canvas and fusible:<br />
front 6<br />
sleeve hem, sleeve head, shoulder pads<br />
back 2<br />
chest shield? 1<br />
Nagging sense I&#8217;m missing something vital.</p>
<p>Now I am too tired to continue work on the project I was doing. I need to take a break from my break visiting your site!<br />
Kaaren</p>
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