Comments on: The best job you could ever get…

By: Martin Taylor

Martin Taylor — Sun, 14 Aug 2011 09:31:31 +0000

* Whew * there was a time (a short time, a long time ago) when I wondered why a uniform manufacturer would need a full-time pattenmaker. I have worked at 3 (and am still working for the third one). I have also worked for fashion companies. The uniform world may have less style changes, we may spend more time in product development for new items or improving old ones but you are right, by far the most time intensive activity is trouble shooting. However many times the ‘trouble’ (problem to solve) is not pattern-related. I help solve them regardless.
The first thing I do is pull out or plot the pattern (people do not seem to ‘trust’ the checking of patterns on a computer screen, though they call me the “elton john of the CAD keyboard”… they want a hard copy), draw the seams lines, get out a ruler or tape measure and …. either the pattern is correct, or it isn’t – in black/white (well, I usually use a red pen, with the sharpest point I can find at office supply stores).
I’d say the pattern is correct at least 97% of the time (usually higher… patternmakers have to be precise, while being the first place a finger points. I met a patternmaker, over the phone, from Russia. Same story from her. The nature of the job). Of course I rely on feedback: 1. fabric characteristics (shrinkage for example) 2. seam allowances (we have a chart to which the sewing floor is supposed to use… they don’t always) 3. other things which escape me at 5am…. sometimes I receive incorrect info/feedback.
So…. I spend time getting to know the operators, spending time with them, chatting with them while they sew while keeping a hawk-eye on what they are doing.
I remember the first jacket I made with over 30 pieces, a police (motorcycle) jacket. That led to the 50+ piece garments. All the whistles and bells some turnout gear has.
thanks, Kathleen, for letting me ramble. martin

By: kathleen

kathleen — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 01:53:21 +0000

EEK, I notice I missed mentioning one of my points (so I will have to update this entry).

My point is, if you work at a uniform manufacturing plant, no matter where you go or what you make after that, you will become very good at troubleshooting. This will be invaluable. Because you’ve learned to recognize a range of problems and what they’re caused by, you’ve learned a pattern language. Once you have this, you’ll be better able to decide what the problems are even if the fabrics and patterns change constantly, as they do with a fashion line. Believe me, you will know where to use the reproducibility standards you used at the uniform company in a fashion line. You will know exactly where the controls lie and where the problem started.

…Then you like everybody else on the planet, will run screaming into the pattern room at the first sign of trouble. Because honestly, that’s usually where it is… Or maybe I shouldn’t tell you that.

By: kathleen

kathleen — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 00:12:27 +0000

Funny you say jackets are like uniforms, my example was pulled from a coat factory. "Too many pieces" is relative, jackets and coats have more pieces than comparative tops and bottoms do. It was not unusual for my patterns to have over 50 pieces (2 pers counted as 1 piece). You have the best resource on the web to find someone who can help you -and you're already a member.

By: Johanna Miklos

Johanna Miklos — Wed, 11 Aug 2010 22:23:09 +0000

Now to find one that is willing to work with a new idea. I understand – even though I can’t sew – that there are just too many pieces to my jacket. (Cost rears it’s ugly head!) If I knew more, I would be able to simplify! A jacket is like a uniform: it should look great on everybody.

By: Theresa in Tucson

Theresa in Tucson — Wed, 11 Aug 2010 01:53:14 +0000

Having spent a career “in uniform”, I agree. U.S. military clothing is supposed to be domestic manufacture. My husband has his father’s dress uniform, Korean War era, and the details and sewing are superb. I went through Basic in 1977. When I was fitted for my uniform skirt I was handed a 12+. I asked what the plus was for and was informed I had more of a fanny and that my skirt was built for that. I don’t think today’s dress uniforms are as well built but they are still very good. The work uniform has improved and the size range is huge. How would you like to size a 4’10 woman up to a 6’8 man in the typical camouflage duty uniform, have it look professional, be easy to maneuver in, and hold up under the stresses of combat. Quite a tall order.

By: Dawn

Dawn — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 20:36:02 +0000

And if you can convince a uniform company to CMT your line…you may well find the quality to be excellent.

By: Kerryn

Kerryn — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 18:45:48 +0000

My first job was working for a 50yr old corporate uniform manufacturer. Right out of fashion school it was by no means a dream job! but I took advice from my pattern-making tutor who pointed out that all the fashion lines I lusted after had beautiful technical details and the only way to get that good was to get your hands dirty and learn from the old hands. Most people had been working at this company for 20+ years and they really knew their work. I gained a background in pattern-making, manufacturing, cutting, fusing, finishing, sourcing, warehousing – you name it, they had me learn it.

I have used what I learnt at that factory every single day in my career since. I don’t sew my own patterns in my day job, but for freelance work it’s still my favourite part. I think I get a better result putting my pattern through the test for ease of cutting, fusing, sewing and sampling – I modify the pattern as I work through the sample and feel confident I’m handing over my best work.

I totally agree, if there’s a chance to work for an older manufacturer – particularly uniform manufacturers. Grab it! so few people in the industry have that experience now with the large amount of offshore manufacturing and it’s invaluable. Uniform suppliers usually work with a large size range too and learning to accommodate large groups of people efficiently through design and smart size ranges is hard experience to get.