<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: The difference between crap and quality</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-difference-between-crap-and-quality/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-difference-between-crap-and-quality/</link>
	<description>How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 18 May 2013 03:46:09 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=255</generator>
	<item>
		<title>By: Elaine</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-difference-between-crap-and-quality/comment-page-1/#comment-126481</link>
		<dc:creator>Elaine</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 07 Feb 2013 22:36:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9740#comment-126481</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Rereading this post again this cold rainy afternoon. I&#039;m sitting here in some Old Navy sweatpants that I&#039;ve had for about 2 years. They are still long enough, there&#039;s no torque in the legs, the seams are still sturdy, the drawstring still tightly woven and the color is still black, even along the seamlines. In fact, they are in better shape than the pair I made from 100% cotton fleece made in Canada; that fabric cost me more than the finished ON pants plus the postage I paid to get them here.

I&#039;m humbled by this post every time I read it. Thanks for your clear explanations, Kathleen.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Rereading this post again this cold rainy afternoon. I&#8217;m sitting here in some Old Navy sweatpants that I&#8217;ve had for about 2 years. They are still long enough, there&#8217;s no torque in the legs, the seams are still sturdy, the drawstring still tightly woven and the color is still black, even along the seamlines. In fact, they are in better shape than the pair I made from 100% cotton fleece made in Canada; that fabric cost me more than the finished ON pants plus the postage I paid to get them here.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m humbled by this post every time I read it. Thanks for your clear explanations, Kathleen.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Like a puppy chasing a bus: Sourcing like big brands</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-difference-between-crap-and-quality/comment-page-1/#comment-61917</link>
		<dc:creator>Like a puppy chasing a bus: Sourcing like big brands</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Mar 2012 00:26:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9740#comment-61917</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[[...] inputs and sewing, soup to nuts. The buyer (brand) stipulates the acceptable quality level (I think value is a better word) and garment specifications and the two negotiate minimums, costs and delivery time frames. If you [...]]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] inputs and sewing, soup to nuts. The buyer (brand) stipulates the acceptable quality level (I think value is a better word) and garment specifications and the two negotiate minimums, costs and delivery time frames. If you [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: nina cadzow</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-difference-between-crap-and-quality/comment-page-1/#comment-51379</link>
		<dc:creator>nina cadzow</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Nov 2011 19:03:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9740#comment-51379</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Totally agree Kathleen- I have this discussion a lot with my students who believe &#039;slow&#039; is synonymous with quality-when in fact what it can mean is ineptitude( I certainly want my makers to be putting in the fly zip in 3 minutes as opposed to 1 hour); not having the right machinery for the job;lack of understanding of processes and importantly no systems in place- I have pointed out to them that at the end of the day,when you are footing the bill for CMT, when you are getting your collections together out there in the big wide world- who are you going for- the CMT outfit with the best speed and skills for the best rates- and there is plenty of that in china!]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Totally agree Kathleen- I have this discussion a lot with my students who believe &#8216;slow&#8217; is synonymous with quality-when in fact what it can mean is ineptitude( I certainly want my makers to be putting in the fly zip in 3 minutes as opposed to 1 hour); not having the right machinery for the job;lack of understanding of processes and importantly no systems in place- I have pointed out to them that at the end of the day,when you are footing the bill for CMT, when you are getting your collections together out there in the big wide world- who are you going for- the CMT outfit with the best speed and skills for the best rates- and there is plenty of that in china!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Kathleen Fasanella</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-difference-between-crap-and-quality/comment-page-1/#comment-39674</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 30 Jul 2011 13:56:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9740#comment-39674</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This often has its roots in cutting (or maybe even earlier in the finishing process). The matter of getting wider and shorter is definitely cutting. Here&#039;s two earlier entries that may help:
&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-why-do-knits-get-larger/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pop Quiz: Why do knits get larger?&lt;/a&gt;
&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-why-do-knits-get-larger-pt-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pop Quiz: Why do knits get larger? pt.2&lt;/a&gt;]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This often has its roots in cutting (or maybe even earlier in the finishing process). The matter of getting wider and shorter is definitely cutting. Here&#8217;s two earlier entries that may help:<br />
<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-why-do-knits-get-larger/" rel="nofollow">Pop Quiz: Why do knits get larger?</a><br />
<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-why-do-knits-get-larger-pt-2/" rel="nofollow">Pop Quiz: Why do knits get larger? pt.2</a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Seth Meyeirnk-Griffin</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-difference-between-crap-and-quality/comment-page-1/#comment-39665</link>
		<dc:creator>Seth Meyeirnk-Griffin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 30 Jul 2011 12:55:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9740#comment-39665</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Re: Twisting of goods

This may have been covered elsewhere, but how does one avoid this issue when purchasing jersey? I&#039;ve noted that nearly all of my t-shirts are twisted after many wash cycles (not only twisted, but they tend to get wider and shorter); I assume that this is a function of the jersey itself. I know that I should order sample yardage and wash-test prior to use, which works quite well if you are doing multiple units, and not so wonderfully if you are doing custom or one-off work.

I guess the real question buried here is, what is the root cause in knits?]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Re: Twisting of goods</p>
<p>This may have been covered elsewhere, but how does one avoid this issue when purchasing jersey? I&#8217;ve noted that nearly all of my t-shirts are twisted after many wash cycles (not only twisted, but they tend to get wider and shorter); I assume that this is a function of the jersey itself. I know that I should order sample yardage and wash-test prior to use, which works quite well if you are doing multiple units, and not so wonderfully if you are doing custom or one-off work.</p>
<p>I guess the real question buried here is, what is the root cause in knits?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: ThomasM</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-difference-between-crap-and-quality/comment-page-1/#comment-39489</link>
		<dc:creator>ThomasM</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jul 2011 02:07:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9740#comment-39489</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[OMG! I wasn&#039;t expecting to see the term stem stitch here. I bet your trip to Bayeux made a huge impression on you. That is very exciting. Several years ago I was lecturing on embroidery at the Jonkoping&#039;s convention center in Sweden. I was asked if while there I would like to visit the neighboring town of Huskvarna where Huskvarna is headquartered. I of course took them up on the offer, but was taken back when I realized they made chainsaws and weed whackers as well. I learned so much from this trip that I will never forget. Most of all I learned how fortunate we are in America for such open and inexpensive educational opportunities. This site is a perfect example of such.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>OMG! I wasn&#8217;t expecting to see the term stem stitch here. I bet your trip to Bayeux made a huge impression on you. That is very exciting. Several years ago I was lecturing on embroidery at the Jonkoping&#8217;s convention center in Sweden. I was asked if while there I would like to visit the neighboring town of Huskvarna where Huskvarna is headquartered. I of course took them up on the offer, but was taken back when I realized they made chainsaws and weed whackers as well. I learned so much from this trip that I will never forget. Most of all I learned how fortunate we are in America for such open and inexpensive educational opportunities. This site is a perfect example of such.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Katherine</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-difference-between-crap-and-quality/comment-page-1/#comment-39482</link>
		<dc:creator>Katherine</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jul 2011 01:28:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9740#comment-39482</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Sort of a little bit related...

Fast fashion and high quality can go hand in hand because of the evolution of technology and the learning from other peoples&#039; hard work and experience.

About 10 years ago, I went to France and visited the Bayeux Tapestry, which is over 70 m long and about half a metre wide.  I&#039;m not sure, but I think it was made sometime around the 10th and 11th centuries.  There were only a couple of types of stitches used (my guide book indicates stem stitch and laid-and-couched work, which looked like colouring-in stitches to me).  These were probably the only stitches that they knew then.  Today, people can learn dozens of stitches in a very short space of time.  I found it fascinating to think that it would have taken hundreds of years for these stitches to evolve.  Somebody, somewhere would have invented a new stitch, and shown their friends (or be copied by competitive villagers?).  Today, a technically more complex tapestry could be completed in a mere fraction of the time that it took for the stitches to be invented.

And anybody who looks at my knitting can see that crap quality can come out of painstakingly slow work.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sort of a little bit related&#8230;</p>
<p>Fast fashion and high quality can go hand in hand because of the evolution of technology and the learning from other peoples&#8217; hard work and experience.</p>
<p>About 10 years ago, I went to France and visited the Bayeux Tapestry, which is over 70 m long and about half a metre wide.  I&#8217;m not sure, but I think it was made sometime around the 10th and 11th centuries.  There were only a couple of types of stitches used (my guide book indicates stem stitch and laid-and-couched work, which looked like colouring-in stitches to me).  These were probably the only stitches that they knew then.  Today, people can learn dozens of stitches in a very short space of time.  I found it fascinating to think that it would have taken hundreds of years for these stitches to evolve.  Somebody, somewhere would have invented a new stitch, and shown their friends (or be copied by competitive villagers?).  Today, a technically more complex tapestry could be completed in a mere fraction of the time that it took for the stitches to be invented.</p>
<p>And anybody who looks at my knitting can see that crap quality can come out of painstakingly slow work.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Grace</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-difference-between-crap-and-quality/comment-page-1/#comment-39385</link>
		<dc:creator>Grace</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Jul 2011 18:29:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9740#comment-39385</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Thanks, Kathleen, for another excellent post about value, values and quality.

This has been on my mind, both in my day job in software, and my other job, which includes getting my middle-school daughter&#039;s back to school wardrobe together.  I am more short of time than money so it would be easier to just throw my credit card around in the mall.  But I feel a responsibility to show her how to dress well while being economically, socially and environmentally conscious.  This will also put her on more solid financial footing when mommy and daddy stop paying her bills.

So I put in a little extra time.  But it&#039;s doable.

I mean to post about that later this month.  When I do, I will definitely link back to this discussion.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks, Kathleen, for another excellent post about value, values and quality.</p>
<p>This has been on my mind, both in my day job in software, and my other job, which includes getting my middle-school daughter&#8217;s back to school wardrobe together.  I am more short of time than money so it would be easier to just throw my credit card around in the mall.  But I feel a responsibility to show her how to dress well while being economically, socially and environmentally conscious.  This will also put her on more solid financial footing when mommy and daddy stop paying her bills.</p>
<p>So I put in a little extra time.  But it&#8217;s doable.</p>
<p>I mean to post about that later this month.  When I do, I will definitely link back to this discussion.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Kathleen</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-difference-between-crap-and-quality/comment-page-1/#comment-39366</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Jul 2011 13:33:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9740#comment-39366</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The tiny fabric balls are &quot;pills&quot;. The process is called &quot;pilling&quot;. This happens when the fibers making up each thread become untwisted.

Twisting of goods refers to the grain of the fabric, the grid of woven threads on the horizontal and vertical. Goods are said to be torqued or skewed if the grain can be manipulated off x and y.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The tiny fabric balls are &#8220;pills&#8221;. The process is called &#8220;pilling&#8221;. This happens when the fibers making up each thread become untwisted.</p>
<p>Twisting of goods refers to the grain of the fabric, the grid of woven threads on the horizontal and vertical. Goods are said to be torqued or skewed if the grain can be manipulated off x and y.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: nat.laurel</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-difference-between-crap-and-quality/comment-page-1/#comment-39355</link>
		<dc:creator>nat.laurel</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Jul 2011 09:57:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9740#comment-39355</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have a question for Kai Jones or whoever is wiling to spend a couple of minutes to give me  the answer. What exactly means: &quot;no twisting of goods (so, they&#039;re on grain)&quot;.   Not only I am a newbie, I am also a non-native speaker, so I will really appreciate the explanation. I suppose you are talking about the tiny  fabric balls that  start covering  the surface of the so-called  &#039;cheap&#039; garments after  a couple of laundries.  Am I right? Is this called &quot;twisting of goods&quot;?  thank you.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a question for Kai Jones or whoever is wiling to spend a couple of minutes to give me  the answer. What exactly means: &#8220;no twisting of goods (so, they&#8217;re on grain)&#8221;.   Not only I am a newbie, I am also a non-native speaker, so I will really appreciate the explanation. I suppose you are talking about the tiny  fabric balls that  start covering  the surface of the so-called  &#8216;cheap&#8217; garments after  a couple of laundries.  Am I right? Is this called &#8220;twisting of goods&#8221;?  thank you.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>

<!-- Performance optimized by W3 Total Cache. Learn more: http://www.w3-edge.com/wordpress-plugins/

Page Caching using disk: enhanced
Database Caching 2/17 queries in 0.008 seconds using disk
Object Caching 381/383 objects using disk

 Served from: www.fashion-incubator.com @ 2013-05-21 04:09:01 by W3 Total Cache -->