Comments on: The fastest way to pattern and prototype How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better. Sat, 04 Jul 2015 18:04:23 +0000 hourly 1 By: Production pattern making class | Fashion-Incubator Fri, 26 Jun 2015 20:52:46 +0000 […] experience. Other kinds of training designed specifically to your needs is also available -see this post on rapid product development. Yep, we make it while you wait, soup to […]

By: nahid Thu, 05 Jun 2014 19:43:21 +0000 Hi,
I,m an start up. I used to make patterns based on Muller method. But it have many problems. Would you please help me about the methos?

By: Lisa Fri, 24 Jan 2014 00:21:49 +0000 I would love to do this to learn the process. How does it compare to Patternworks other than the super fast turnaround? I have YEARNED for what you mentioned – a beautifully cut day dress. WHY???? isn’t it made. It doesn’t seem it should be a extinct beast! I am at the point where I will MAKE IT MYSELF as I am unable to live without it. Seriously, you are right there is junk and then crazy expensive. Loved your book, devoured it and STILL want to make my dream dress(‘s). I am willing to fly out and listen with open ears. I really want to make this with my dream sublimation designs. I need the prototype. My friends feel the same way. HELP!

By: Raquel Thu, 19 Dec 2013 02:54:00 +0000 Thank you so much for this. This strategy makes so much sense.

By: Margo Anderson Tue, 10 Dec 2013 17:04:57 +0000 Pamela, sorry this is late but I just saw it. McCall patterns has a Commercial Printing department that will print tissue sheets, instruction sheets, and envelopes for you. It’s not expensive. The person to contact for more information is Kathy Robertson, and her email is

By: H. Sat, 07 Dec 2013 17:55:23 +0000 Wow! I had no idea you offer this service. This is major for those of us who are new to the whole thing. I am starting a new file folder and savings fund right now so I can be prepared to take advantage of this awesome opportunity ASAP. I will need a little time to get there and in the meantime I will keep studying your book.

By: Pamela Fri, 15 Nov 2013 22:00:37 +0000 Hi Kathleen. Thank you for the very thorough answer. I’ve had your wonderful book for years, and am now re-reading it. I’m sure that I would be able to benefit from your services when I am further along in the process. Thanks again.

By: Kathleen Fasanella Fri, 15 Nov 2013 18:04:04 +0000 Pamela: this is another kettle of fish. I specialize in output to sewn product production, not retail patterns. That said, I know a bit from working with customers and also, there are alternative technologies and services in the apparel industry that may be helpful -depending on your goals. You might read Starting a home sewing pattern company and Starting a home sewing pattern company pt.2 as a start. I plan to launch one soon but I won’t be printing envelopes and I will plot the patterns to order. This is because I don’t anticipate massive response and so, don’t intend to sell at brick and mortar stores.

The only problem with using apparel industry resources is that you will be expected to understand those conventions. I personally think it is worth it because you can save buckets upon buckets of money but you’ll have to do your homework (read my book) because hand holding doesn’t come with the deal. A lot of startups have had problems going that route but it is mostly their own fault. For example, this email from “Kat”

I’m inquiring about your price list for grading and digitizing services. I am developing my business plan for Independent Patterns for the Home Sewer. Unfortunately, my experience thus far has been that industry pattern makers do not seem receptive to grading patterns for the home sewer. However, your post leads me to believe you are receptive to this business idea.

To date, 3 of my designs have been translated professionally into first patterns. Toiles are underway.
a) one complicated, unlined jacket. 21 pieces.
b) princess dress – 11 pieces
c) shirt – 11 pieces

I would appreciate estimates for the following services:
a) grading for 8 sizes (2-16)

And the answers to the following:
a) Would delivery of this information be available in .pdf ?
b) What is the turnaround?

I responded that there were a lot of red flags with the job, not the least of which was that it was a cut and paste job sent out to who knows how many providers. Judging from her rude and arrogant response, she was offended. If you’re likely to be offended by an industry person who fails to suck up (most just won’t bother to respond at all), or doesn’t have the most stellar social skills, this might not be a route for you either. Time and time again, consumers getting into business have no idea how to navigate B2B relationships; vendors largely only suck up to consumers (B2C) or in highly competitive industries which this one isn’t. Kat would have been better served to ask about the weaknesses of her plan and how she might go about making her plan more appealing to providers. I wasn’t going to lay all that out in my response since we never hear back from 80% of the people who write or call us, so why waste the time? It would be something else if we were all starving but most of us are extremely busy. But anyway, I’m not the least bit surprised she was having difficulty making inroads with apparel industry graders. Fwiw the worst red flag was that she said this was for a business plan -this means one would go through all the work of creating a proposal without the slightest guarantee of getting the job -or even knowing if one wanted it.

But I digress. My services would be best suited to teaching you benchmarks and processes from production patternmaking. Using best practices from the apparel industry to organize and effectively manage the workload, is the key to consistency and the highest quality product possible. In home patterns, this process is largely hit or miss. In industry, we have defined and highly refined processes that if you follow them, leave no ugly surprises to be discovered by your customers.
Raquel: I suggest the most complex stuff. In the initial stages, the student has to submit some sketches of proposed projects. I then come back with selections for whichever styles. I tend to select projects that provide more crossover to other styles. For example, if you only had one pant but three dresses and four blouses, I wouldn’t pick the pants. I would pick btwn blouses and dresses that shared commonalities. Part of my job is showing you how to use the commonalities across those other styles to save time and get more bang for your buck.

By: Raquel Fri, 15 Nov 2013 01:32:35 +0000 This is perfect! Kathleen, what project would you recommend DEs to get this service? The most difficult ones? The simple block stuff? I wouldn’t even know which project I would choose to get your guidance on.

By: Pamela Thu, 14 Nov 2013 14:18:34 +0000 Kathleen, If we decided to do this in order to create a pattern line, would you be able to direct us to vendors who would print our paper patterns and envelopes for us? I’m sort of at a loss as to how to go about this. Thank you.